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The whole construction process of "Pit Vipers"

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  • #16
    I have prepared tools. What I need to do today is to remove all the screws on the side of the box. Drive wood chips and fill the pits. I will use a "mysterious powder" to fill it.

    I have finished the disassembly of two screws, and now it is the third screw. I have verified this method, so I take pictures for you!


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    • #17
      More pictures

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      • #18
        More pictures

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        • #19
          I have completely removed all screws of the box. The next day I will simply polish it.

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          • #20
            I have a question again!
            I used the above method to reinforce the splice of MDF,

            Is it possible to avoid displacement at the plate splicing?


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            Tom said in his video that a thin density board needs to be pasted at the panel to prevent displacement caused by expansion.

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            tomzarbo video connection address: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dT9la2ZOZA0

            ​​





             

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            • #21
              I have built quite a few pairs of butt-jointed veneered speakers. From mostly particle board and some MDF and plywood. I mostly use paper backed PSA (pressure sensitive adhesive) veneer.

              I really haven't experienced ghosting or telegraphing of the butt-joints. I'm careful to not oversand and round over the edges. With PSA veneer, I apply 2-3 coats of shellac and sand.

              Your materials may vary.

              You can see my build threads if you search my profile here. I post a fair number of pictures.

              It certainly wouldn't hurt to apply a layer of 1/8" hardboard if you have the glue and the time. Your wooden dowel plugs might swell over time. High VOC Weldwood type of glue would be my choice for this task.

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              • #22
                I like to glue down a layer of 3mm on the sides where end grain MDF is showing and try to make the construction so that all the end grain exposed is on as few sides as possible, either top bottom back (usually) or the sides.

                I've found the thicker the MDF the more you will see the joint later through the veneer just from swelling movement, especially with anything above a matte finish.
                Constructions: Dayton+SB 2-Way v1 | Dayton+SB 2-Way v2 | Fabios (SB Monitors)
                Refurbs: KLH 2 | Rega Ela Mk1

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                • #23
                  I'm glad, I'm back here again

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                  I put the woofer on and checked the back. I found that I should do some bevel trimming for the round hole on the back.

                  Maybe my mid-range box can't be operated after being pasted. So I first pasted the double-layer panels together, and then rounded and chamfered the back of the bass opening.​

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                  The two front baffles are stacked together. In order to avoid the problem of sideslip when pressing and drying after pasting glue, I am worried that the two layers of boards may slip and produce step joints when pasting directly. So I put a lot of screws on the back to make the two layers of boards locate, so there should be no movement.

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                  The length of the screw is less than 36mm, so there is no need to worry about the problem of lock penetration.

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                  This is the drill bit and the screw. Let's make a counterbore for the screw. Later, we will use some wood powder to fill it.



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                  • #24
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                    After screwing, I separated the two boards and polished the holes between them.


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                    I applied the strong woodworking glue, and afterwards I found that my glue was a little less.

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                    They have already been stacked together. Lock the screws, which were originally said to be pressed with the F clamp. Later, a simple method was used.

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                    Found a large stone (very heavy!) There is also a box of wine and a carton equipped with screw accessories. The overall weight is still not small.

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                    Put it on the floor. It should be enough to press it. In fact, it doesn't need too much force.

                    I have finished the panel of one box, and I have to finish the other.

                    The progress was very slow, mainly because I was too lazy. ​

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                    • #25
                      Those are going to be solid! Very nice build log and I appreciate your attention to the construction. My builds are never this careful, but I don't have the patience.

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                      • #26
                        Probably too late, but I have used this method for three projects to bond two layers of mdf. Holding up very well.

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                        • #27
                          This build is lovely and inspiring. Paul I assume your jaw is on the floor watching such craftsmanship be put towards one of your designs.

                          I will add I can't say I've had issues with veneer expanding and contracting, and I live in a house with effectively no climate control, so my speakers get the brunt of the temperature and humidity changes.

                          Also 9sheng your thumbnail tells me you play guitar, am I right?

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                          • #28
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                            First, I designed the PCB circuit board of the frequency divider (this is only the high pitch part). I plan to make three independent PCBs to separate high, medium and low frequencies

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                            The back of the woofer was trimmed
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                            • #29
                              Originally posted by joshshetter View Post
                              Also 9sheng your thumbnail tells me you play guitar, am I right?
                              Thank you, you have extraordinary observation!

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                              • #30
                                Continue to upload the latest photos

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