Ok, here's the plot, 4 liter ported Aura Sound NS3's (or PE ND91) enclosure lined with 1/2" carpet pad . port is flexible electrical conduit about 1 1/4" diameter.. Now, the hard part. I've been using Paul Carmody's "Sprint" boom-box filter but of course, I thought I needed to try to go to a full two-way.Paul and Wolf is there a tweeter that doesn't sound BAD with th NS3 and a simple XO? I have a half-doz from 25 years en pretty high-end ones that my ears and tests show aren't good pairings and don't show good promise.. N;D-25::ND-28F::Peerless PC20C15: Peerless DC26NC56-06: ND-20FA6:and a NLA Peerless from 20 years ago P-E close-out all are varying degrees of bad- I went to Zaph's site, but no joy there.HELP!
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The ND91-4 and ND16FA-6 is Scott Sehlin's Helium speaker.
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Sorry, I should have said the aura NS3's are 8 ohm and more like the Dayton ND91-8's- but just a bit different too.Integrating them with small sized tweeters without at least a half-dozen parts on the tweeter just doesn't want to work in my sims and tests.We're up to $40+ of parts quickly (in sims) and honestly, I don't know what I'm doing or should be trying to do. More than a piece of me says get some Peerless 25TG35-04's to try (rob my Classix II's???)
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That 2 mH inductor on the mid-woofer will hurt the wallet! I probably should go back to Paul C,'s filter and say "gud 'nufr".I have learned the NS3 sounds SOOO much better in at least 3.5 liters ported and 4 L really "opens it up" with the flexible conduit port nets out about 3.75L or close to a gallon.
Maybe you smart guys can tell me if I'm thinking right, My thinking(?) is the NS3 has to be "shut off" HARD about 2-3Khz, before the small tweeter comes on. THEN block the bottom of the tweeter and smooth it out-which usually means some parts. So I've taken a simple speaker and made a complex one for a little "sparkle" in the highs maybe.
To Paul Carmody, I have found MANY, MANY ways to make your design sound MUCH WORSE, and no simple way to make it sound better. A very big "atta boy" to you.
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