Possible different cab finishing idea.

[jdclark]

I really want to start working with some nice wood, but my wallet doesnt share the same desire. Plus, MDF is pretty damn good from an acoustic stand point. Veneer is an option, but I havent done it before and am relutant to try for some reason (plus, options that please my eye are limited).

Anyway, I saw some pictures from someone who had finished their cab's in an arborite finish that resembled a nice dark wenge, and it got me thinking.

I can pick up pieces of PERFECT 3/16 x 2 ¾ x 4 ¾” Madagascar ebony (15-20 year old stock, very dry/stable) for a really good price. So, im thinking about rebuilding my 3-cr cabs, going with a beveled edge rather than a round over, and 'plating" the cabinet in Ebony. Obviously the seams would stand out a little, but I think it could look pretty cool.

The only wild card is how to attatch the plates. I dont want to just glue them on, and the only other thing I can come up with would be to drill the main cabinet for small dowels (lots of em), and partially drill the ebony plates (not all the way through). Then use the dowels to help provide some support for the plates along with wood glue.
The ebony plates would be finished with a light sand (want to keep a good bit of grain/texture) and then hand rubbed tung oil (24 hours between coats with a #0000 steel wool rub in between).

What do you think?

[bobblickle]

Re: Possible different cab finishing idea.

Sounds interesting. I think you should glue them. A pin nailer would justify its cost in a project such as this to secure them until the glue dries.

Another possibility might be to use a contrasting material (another wood or something else entirely) as the "grout" between your tiles. The strips could act as a guide to help you keep aligned.

Veneering is really not that difficult if you don't get in a hurry. Look around for a tutorial of the iron-on technique.

bb

[jdclark]

Re: Possible different cab finishing idea.

Sounds interesting. I think you should glue them. A pin nailer would justify its cost in a project such as this to secure them until the glue dries.

Another possibility might be to use a contrasting material (another wood or something else entirely) as the "grout" between your tiles. The strips could act as a guide to help you keep aligned.

Veneering is really not that difficult if you don't get in a hurry. Look around for a tutorial of the iron-on technique.

bb

Its not that I dont think I could work with veneer, I just dont feel like doing it for some reason . Plus, there arnt too many darker non-flashy veneers I like.

But, I might try an ebony or wenge veneer. Neither seem to be too expensive (ebony is twice as much as wenge though).

[mgrabow]

Re: Possible different cab finishing idea.

stay away from solid wood. It moves too much... Veneer is the way to go...

the ebony is a nice closed grain though...

[jdclark]

Re: Possible different cab finishing idea.

stay away from solid wood. It moves too much... Veneer is the way to go...

the ebony is a nice closed grain though...

You saying I could have issues from expansion/contraction with the ebony plates?

[mikec]

Go

I would worry more about vibration than expansion/contraction because with small pieces the movement should be minimal.
________
MEDICAL MARIJUANA

[bobblickle]

Re: Possible different cab finishing idea.

If you like dark, oiled Walnut is very classic, available, and easy to work with. Since you intended only to clad the cabinet in solids, not build from them, I see no issue with your original plan. Just plan on using a light finish like oil rather than something thicker and you have a good chance of success.

bb

[fbov]

Re: Possible different cab finishing idea.

JD,
You would, in effect, be making your own veneer. Use table making techniques to fabricate panels large enough to cover entire sides. Planing the finished planks flat will take off a little of the thickness, but that's fine.

I also like Bob's idea of contrasting woods. One good technique for a solid outer surface is to use a woodworking epoxy to attach the pieces, and then seal the wood with it to fill any gaps and tie everything together.

Or you could just make 3" speakers (just kidding).

Frank