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  • 10" swap for the "Cinderella"

    The cinderella speaker project from Curt C. look very good.

    Had anyone used the dayton 10" (dc250-8) instead of the dc200-8 for the cinderella ?
    and what is the different between the dayton ND20Fa and ND20Fb ?
    does the x-over need to be mod ?

    I almost have enough speakers parts to built one

  • #2
    Re: 10" swap for the "Cinderella"

    the FA and FB are 2 different tweeters but are similar.
    Parts Express search

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    • #3
      Re: 10" swap for the "Cinderella"

      I built the Cinderella's per specification. Changing the woofer will require a change in the XO design and the lower bass bin (volume and port tuning). You cannot drop in different speakers without a major makeover.

      I seriously recommend building them as designed. There is more than adequate bass to cover the open string of the double base and lowest string on the piano. These are music speakers, not home theater. As my listening tends to classical (yes, the 1812 with CANNONS, Wagner operas etc., i.e., "heavy" classical), jazz, blues and celtic I cannot attest to their reproduction of R&B, heavy metal and many of the other rock bands mentioned by others on this board (sorry, not my cup of tea). The exception is the Trans-Siberian Orchestra, they ROCK.:D:D

      I build them in part based on a board member (Paul Carmoda) who built them and his background (musician). The design has a high WAF and do not overpower the room yet when cranked up (Carmina Burana at 100 dB) is like being in the 4th row center at Music Hall (Cincinnati).

      Some pictures of these speakers are in my albums under my screen name. Ten thumbs and two ears up:D

      George
      "In order to really enjoy a dog, one doesn't merely try to train him to be semi-human. The point of it is to open oneself to the possibility of becoming partly a dog." - Edward Hoagland

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      • #4
        Re: 10" swap for the "Cinderella"

        Originally posted by sagamotto View Post
        The cinderella speaker project from Curt C. look very good.

        Had anyone used the dayton 10" (dc250-8) instead of the dc200-8 for the cinderella ?
        and what is the different between the dayton ND20Fa and ND20Fb ?
        does the x-over need to be mod ?

        I almost have enough speakers parts to built one

        Even if the tweeters are similar, in just about every case, the XO needs to be re-worked for any changes in driver compliment. Small and/or subtle differences can make a difference in XO topology and XO points. Same for using a different woofer. If you're looking for more low-end, like for HT, build them as specified (you will not be disappointed) and add a sub. There are many options for great performing subs that are also budget-oriented. They perform better than most name brand store-bought stuff for less money. The Parts Express pre-built subs are no slouch either if your budget is more restrictive.

        John A.
        "Children play with b-a-l-l-s and sticks, men race, and real men race motorcycles"-John Surtees
        Emotiva UPA-2, USP-1, ERC-1 CD
        Yamaha KX-390 HX-Pro
        Pioneer TX-9500 II
        Yamaha YP-211 w/Grado GF3E+
        Statement Monitors
        Vintage system: Yamaha CR-420, Technics SL-PG100, Pioneer CT-F8282, Akai X-1800, Morel(T)/Vifa(W) DIY 2-way in .5 ft3
        Photos: http://custom.smugmug.com/Electronic...#4114714_cGTBx
        Blogs: http://techtalk.parts-express.com/blog.php?u=2003

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        • #5
          Re: 10" swap for the "Cinderella"

          Originally posted by johnastockman View Post
          Even if the tweeters are similar, in just about every case, the XO needs to be re-worked for any changes in driver compliment. Small and/or subtle differences can make a difference in XO topology and XO points. Same for using a different woofer. If you're looking for more low-end, like for HT, build them as specified (you will not be disappointed) and add a sub. There are many options for great performing subs that are also budget-oriented. They perform better than most name brand store-bought stuff for less money. The Parts Express pre-built subs are no slouch either if your budget is more restrictive.

          John A.
          The FA and FB are mainly different in impedance, with one a nominal 4 Ohm (rear mount) and 6 Ohm (front mount) and will NOT work in the same XO.
          R = h/(2*pi*m*c) and don't you forget it! || Periodic Table as redrawn by Marshall Freerks and Ignatius Schumacher || King Crimson Radio
          Byzantium Project & Build Thread || MiniByzy Build Thread || 3 x Peerless 850439 HDS 3-way || 8" 2-way - RS28A/B&C8BG51

          95% of Climate Models Agree: The Observations Must be Wrong
          "Gravitational systems are the ashes of prior electrical systems.". - Hannes Alfven, Nobel Laureate, Plasma physicist.

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          • #6
            Re: 10" swap for the "Cinderella"

            With the very wide and openness of the mid, I though may be with a larger woofer would further compliment and improve the low end of the cinderella. Yes indeed i want to build them for H-theatre mainly thus eliminate the use of an additional sub.

            I though full spectrum speaker system is suppose to be covering full frequency range !!!

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            • #7
              Re: 10" swap for the "Cinderella"

              Originally posted by sagamotto View Post
              With the very wide and openness of the mid, I though may be with a larger woofer would further compliment and improve the low end of the cinderella. Yes indeed i want to build them for H-theatre mainly thus eliminate the use of an additional sub.

              I though full spectrum speaker system is suppose to be covering full frequency range !!!
              It does cover the full range.

              However, HT isn't music, and has LFE signals with very low, and very loud signals that may, depending on your tastes, cause distress in the woofer.

              There's no substitute for a large dedicated SUB woofer for LFE duty.

              If you want to build something for HT and music, then might I suggest the HOSS. Dedicated 10" drivers with 300W each and MTM using the Dayton RS150-4 and RS28.

              If you can wait, I'm working on a dual 8" TMWW using the RSS210HF 8" driver, the RS100-4 mid and the RS28 on top. Those will have very large output capacity. 105dB from each side without exceeding Xmax. The pair should allow 110dB from 20Hz on up without exceeding linear excursion in the tapered TL.
              R = h/(2*pi*m*c) and don't you forget it! || Periodic Table as redrawn by Marshall Freerks and Ignatius Schumacher || King Crimson Radio
              Byzantium Project & Build Thread || MiniByzy Build Thread || 3 x Peerless 850439 HDS 3-way || 8" 2-way - RS28A/B&C8BG51

              95% of Climate Models Agree: The Observations Must be Wrong
              "Gravitational systems are the ashes of prior electrical systems.". - Hannes Alfven, Nobel Laureate, Plasma physicist.

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              • #8
                Re: 10" swap for the "Cinderella"

                Originally posted by sagamotto View Post
                Yes indeed i want to build them for H-theatre mainly thus eliminate the use of an additional sub.

                I though full spectrum speaker system is suppose to be covering full frequency range !!!
                The DC-250 will play about 4 dB louder than the DC-200, but they essentially have identical low end extension. With f3's about 40 Hz vented, I don't think either can be considered sub woofers. Also, to reach that f3, the DC-250 will need three times the enclosure volume that the DC-200 requires.

                I would suggest building them as is, and supplement them with a separate sub for HT use.

                C
                Curt's Speaker Design Works

                "It is the mark of an educated mind to be able to entertain a thought without accepting it."
                - Aristotle

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                • #9
                  Re: 10" swap for the "Cinderella"

                  Thank you all for your advices, I really appreciated )

                  One other question, can i use the Hivi B3S instead of the B3N ?
                  and the Dayton ND20FB-4 instead of the ND20FA-6 ?

                  I just happen to have these leftover drivers from my previous project.
                  Hey Curt might probably need your help with the crossover adjustment...
                  Thanks in advance !!!

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