Originally posted by Erich H
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Best methods for finishing MDF
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Re: Best methods for finishing MDF
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Re: Best methods for finishing MDF
I had a real mind blowing idea after reading through this thread. :D
What about rubbing on the wood glue (possibly diluted), then lay thin fiberglass cloth over the joints and add a little more glue on top of the fiberglass?
I would imagine it could be made very smooth if you pulled a squeegy over the area.
I need to order some fiberglass cloth and give it a try.
What do you guys think?
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Re: Best methods for finishing MDF
Originally posted by dlneubec View Post
BTW, how did you do the trenches?
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Re: Best methods for finishing MDF
Just got back from my local auto paint store were I bent the ear of the owner for a while. This is what he recommended for what he thought would be the best product he has to fill the trench. Says guys are skimming flexible bumpers with it and not having any flex issues. Says a 1/16th deep groove would be perfect for this stuff.
Dave
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/USC-I...motiveQ5fTools
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Re: Best methods for finishing MDF
Originally posted by CokewithLime View PostIn doing furniture, once you can repeatably produce a square box (ie using a 45 degree lock mitre bit) I generally just use matching standard 45 degree miters w/ clamps and glue for the two remaining panels
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Re: Best methods for finishing MDF
It does work well if you get the joint set up right. It also gives you a nice square box.
One other issue is you can only do the four sides then you have the top and bottom that will still have a **** joint.
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Re: Best methods for finishing MDF
Originally posted by skatz View Post"That and I am sensitized to epoxy, so if I don't were full protection I get what is like poison ivy mixed with sun burn with lots of swelling. The only way to get ride of it taking steroid dose packets. Not fun, so I try to stay away from it as much as possible. Anyone can become sensitized to epoxy at any time, so becarefull. One you are sensitized its for life.
Dave
Yikes, thats a full blown hypersensitivity reaction, potentially lethal. I'd stay away from anything that could set it off, including testing it for this forum!! Your airway could go into bronchospasm, and your goose, as they say, would be cooked unless you happen to have ready access to an epi-pen.
With the little stuff that I am doing with the MDF as long as I wear rubber gloves and keep the air moving, then get out of the room til it dries I am ok.
You are right I need to stay away from it altogether.
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Re: Best methods for finishing MDF
Originally posted by davepellegrene View PostJim Holtz puts a layer of 1/8" MDF over the whole side panel which would be just about the same thing as a deep rabbit joint. The rabbit would be simpler if you don't break it.This would put the seam on the round over and probably would make it a little more difficult to see.
I definitely think if you can get away from this joint all together would be the best method. Problem is most builders drawings are designed with this type of joint. If one of the methods work it would be possible for someone to redo an existing finish if they don't like the seam showing.
A simple shallow v groove on the seam would do it also and wouldn't look bad.
As far as the trenching goes I just did it on my table belt sander. Would be nice to find a router bit to do it with. I just haven't looked into that yet.
Dave
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Re: Best methods for finishing MDF
Originally posted by CokewithLime View PostHas anyone tried using a 45 degree lock mitre bit
I have use these for years with great success in furniture construction - even works very well with most plywoods
One other issue is you can only do the four sides then you have the top and bottom that will still have a **** joint.
Dave
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Re: Best methods for finishing MDF
Originally posted by dlneubec View PostYou are probably right Dave, but I wonder if we can do something different in our construction techniques to mitigate the potential problems(other than mitre joints), rather than go to elaborate efforts afterwards.
For example, I wonder if a very deep rabbet joint, with maybe just 1/16" to 1/8" of material remaining on the outside piece would show less than a standard **** joint, since it the joint is very near the corner and the glue would likely permeate that narrow section quite well. Obviously a narrow lip like this would be very easy to break off, so that would certainly be a potential drawback.
Also, rather than doing roundovers, might one do chamfers and place the chamfer edge right on the seam. Might that mask the effect of expansion?
Is the amount of expansion changed by the surface hardness of the mdf? Could it be sanded to remove the harder layer at the surface and in that way reduce the potential expansion?
I think this kind of construction technique options might be a good addition to your testing of treatments, if you are interested in exploring them. It just seems to make sense to try and address the problem at the source rather than treat it afterward. A combination of a change in construction techniques and simple seam treatment may offer the easiest solution.
BTW, how did you do the trenches?
I definitely think if you can get away from this joint all together would be the best method. Problem is most builders drawings are designed with this type of joint. If one of the methods work it would be possible for someone to redo an existing finish if they don't like the seam showing.
A simple shallow v groove on the seam would do it also and wouldn't look bad.
As far as the trenching goes I just did it on my table belt sander. Would be nice to find a router bit to do it with. I just haven't looked into that yet.
Dave
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Re: Best methods for finishing MDF
I'm dying to try one of those, tho I wonder if it works well with MDF and how you have to adjust your measurements accordingly.
A long as you have a good router table/fence and are working with consistent panel thickness these bits are very easy to set up and use.
First put matching witness marks on the outsides of the panels to be joined (just to keep insides/outsides identified) then set the depth of cut using a matching thickness piece of scrap to the same final material you are using.
Actually have a look at this set up PDF - pictures save a lot of words.....
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Re: Best methods for finishing MDF
"That and I am sensitized to epoxy, so if I don't were full protection I get what is like poison ivy mixed with sun burn with lots of swelling. The only way to get ride of it taking steroid dose packets. Not fun, so I try to stay away from it as much as possible. Anyone can become sensitized to epoxy at any time, so becarefull. One you are sensitized its for life.
Dave[/QUOTE]"
Yikes, thats a full blown hypersensitivity reaction, potentially lethal. I'd stay away from anything that could set it off, including testing it for this forum!! Your airway could go into bronchospasm, and your goose, as they say, would be cooked unless you happen to have ready access to an epi-pen.
Leave a comment:
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Re: Best methods for finishing MDF
I'm dying to try one of those, tho I wonder if it works well with MDF and how you have to adjust your measurements accordingly. Seems like it would be really nice, make squaring up the corners a bit easier.
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Re: Best methods for finishing MDF
Once I get some dust collection figured out for my router table I'm going to pick up one of those bits. Not just for hiding seams bit it looks like it will help a lot for alignment during glue-ups as well.
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Re: Best methods for finishing MDF
Has anyone tried using a 45 degree lock mitre bit
I have use these for years with great success in furniture construction - even works very well with most plywoods
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