New build with pics...

[ckmoore]

Using JKims modeling posted here...

i have started the build using the black friday special Tang Band W6-789E, with the SB29RDCN tweeter.

I decided to go sealed, as these will be paired with a sub, be they located in the computer room, or elsewhere. I mainly wanted to do these as my first attempt to come up with the specific box measurements myself. I know this may seem elementary to many of you, but it's a first step.

This is what I came up with. The plan is to do a minimally textured black baffle, with a spalted maple veneer I picked up on sale at Woodcraft for the sides/top/rear, (beeyutiful). 3/8 roundover on top/bottom sides of baffle.

I am also not going to do any removable panels. I think the hole is big enough to do all the inside work.













The "missing" caps and resistor are to do the testing as Jay had suggested. Since the extra resistors and caps were cheap, why not?




The hole for the SB29 is very tight, and the mount holes are still EXTREMELY close to the edge. This seems like a design flaw. I am hoping this doesn't turn into a big issue. Hurricane nuts will not fit, as the hole necessary to hold them would more than likely blow out into the edge of the hole.





On flush mounts, I like the look of the driver edge standing just a hair proud. Gives me a warm fuzzy...




Think this is enough bracing for rear? I haven't decided yet if I will brace the window to the baffle....

thoughts?

[Wolf]

Re: New build with pics...

Looking very accurate!
Wolf

[rogoll]

Re: New build with pics...

Very good, detailed work. Those XOs are very neat looking and mirror-imaged, too. Let me ask you, could you put the hurricane nuts on the rear of the baffle?

[gowa]

Re: New build with pics...

Very nice indeed!

[ckmoore]

Re: New build with pics...

Very good, detailed work. Those XOs are very neat looking and mirror-imaged, too. Let me ask you, could you put the hurricane nuts on the rear of the baffle?

I actually did for the woofer. I just don't think there will be enough material left after drilling the holes for the nuts on the tweeter.


An a somewhat related note, when should you increase the baffle thickness above 3/4"?
Is this done mainly to increase stiffness of larger enclosures? If so, at what size does that become necessary?

[rogoll]

Re: New build with pics...

Very good, detailed work. Those XOs are very neat looking and mirror-imaged, too. Let me ask you, could you put the hurricane nuts on the rear of the baffle?

DUH!:o

Sorry, I just took another look at your pics and realized they were on the back.

[[email protected]]

Re: New build with pics...

you do nice work. could you take some little half-moon looking pieces from your cutout, and glue them by your holes? this would support the edge. if not then you will have to angle your screws a bit.

[tomzarbo]

Re: New build with pics...

CK,

Really nice work. I was worried at the first pic with that super-clean table saw... I figured you farmed the work out to Nik Brewer and was taking the credit!... But later pictures reveal the appropriate amount of table-saw sawdust...

I've experienced the same problem you are encountering when I built my HiVi SP10 subwoofer. The mounting holes were so close to the driver hole that drilling the hole for the hurricane nuts (in my case, I used brass threaded inserts) they started to pull out towards the driver hole.



I remedied this by gluing a 1/8th inch thick piece of oak to the inside of the driver hole where the mounting hole was... drilled the hole and mounted the brass insert... then I sanded off the oak piece as shown in this pic (there is still a bit there, but enough for clearance with the driver).

The strip of oak gave that area enough strength to stay together while I drove in the brass inserts. This technique might work with hurricane nuts, I've never used them before.

Oh, the things we learn the hard way!

By the way, I love your method of counter-recessing the hurricane nuts to seat better in the baffle.
Nice work!

TomZ

I just noticed that this method is similar to what Arlis already mentioned, I need to read better!

[mgrabow]

Re: New build with pics...

Using JKims modeling posted here...

i have started the build using the black friday special Tang Band W6-789E, with the SB29RDCN tweeter.

I decided to go sealed, as these will be paired with a sub, be they located in the computer room, or elsewhere. I mainly wanted to do these as my first attempt to come up with the specific box measurements myself. I know this may seem elementary to many of you, but it's a first step.

This is what I came up with. The plan is to do a minimally textured black baffle, with a spalted maple veneer I picked up on sale at Woodcraft for the sides/top/rear, (beeyutiful). 3/8 roundover on top/bottom sides of baffle.

I am also not going to do any removable panels. I think the hole is big enough to do all the inside work.













The "missing" caps and resistor are to do the testing as Jay had suggested. Since the extra resistors and caps were cheap, why not?




The hole for the SB29 is very tight, and the mount holes are still EXTREMELY close to the edge. This seems like a design flaw. I am hoping this doesn't turn into a big issue. Hurricane nuts will not fit, as the hole necessary to hold them would more than likely blow out into the edge of the hole.





On flush mounts, I like the look of the driver edge standing just a hair proud. Gives me a warm fuzzy...




Think this is enough bracing for rear? I haven't decided yet if I will brace the window to the baffle....

thoughts?

Sweeeeeeeeeeet. You have nice tolerances.... there is no slapping it together here...

Have you ever tried painted Masonite as a crossover board? fives the crossover a nice factory look that would compliment your attention to detail...

[Zero the Hero]

Re: New build with pics...

Very nice work.

For whatever it's worth; I can't imagine a need for hurricane nuts on a tweeter. Never heard of anyone using them for that purpose. Heck, I sometimes don't even use them for woofers...

[lunchmoney]

Re: New build with pics...

Very nice work.

For whatever it's worth; I can't imagine a need for hurricane nuts on a tweeter. Never heard of anyone using them for that purpose. Heck, I sometimes don't even use them for woofers...

It's only for if you someday need to take them out or replace them... self-tapping screws don't like going into the same mdf holes more than once... usually you can get away with it, but... you seem my point.

[dlneubec]

Re: New build with pics...

Very nice job so far!

[philiparcario]

Re: New build with pics...

I actually did for the woofer. I just don't think there will be enough material left after drilling the holes for the nuts on the tweeter.


An a somewhat related note, when should you increase the baffle thickness above 3/4"?
Is this done mainly to increase stiffness of larger enclosures? If so, at what size does that become necessary?

thick baffles 3/4 plus 1/2 = 1.25

or two 3/4 =1.5

or three 1/2's =1.5

0r three 3/4 = 2.25 all can be used when ever wanted.


i find they started to be need with sealed 8 inch/ 10 woofers


or 10 inch / 12 inch ported woofers. some claim a ton of bracing will work as well as a thicker baffle i like thick baffles and bracing.


my avatar is a scanspeak 23w 10 inch sub it has a baffle of 2 one inch pieces of solid curly maple and a 3/4 inch piece of plywood. it is 2.75 inches thick!

[Mayhem13]

Re: New build with pics...

Nice Job! I haven't started mine yet but i LOVE the looks of the drivers themselves....especially the surround on the TB.

[MrkCrwly]

Re: New build with pics...

On flush mounts, I like the look of the driver edge standing just a hair proud. Gives me a warm fuzzy...

I too like the way you set the speaker proud. Gives a more finished look. Do you use the Jasper 200 jig for all of your speaker routing or do you also have the Jasper 400 for tweets?
I always enjoy your build threads.
Thanks
Mark