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  • #31
    Re: New build with pics...

    Originally posted by Angaria View Post
    feel your pain on lack of room for hurricane nuts. One thing you can do, especially for a tweeter where they aren't taking any stress is to bend up one side of the little flat plate (stick it in a vise and a few hammer taps suffice).
    I take a pair of linesman's pliers and cut a side off with a little help from a vise.

    Ron E.
    C-Note Iron Driver Build
    The Cherry π's

    Comment


    • #32
      Re: New build with pics...

      Originally posted by MrkCrwly View Post
      ...Shoot, just this week I learned that overpriced caps cause global warming.
      Mark
      Due to the heated debate, right? You hear a lot of hot air, when cap discussions come up :P

      I like seeing the build threads w/pics too.

      Originally posted by Pete Schumacher ® View Post
      If you drill a pilot hole before you set the screw, you can back a screw in and out of MDF 20 times without damage to the MDF, but you MUST drill a pilot first.
      Absolutely!

      Oh, here's a tip:

      Drill the hole as big as the screw shaft, then, soak in some polyurethane, or, sanding sealer, or such in the hole. Get enough in there to soak in a good 1/8th" into the MDF surface and turn it from MDF to plastic. If you do it right, you can get a hole that's almost as good for screwing as plywood! :p It's nice to have a hole that stays tight after repeat screwing and un-screwing
      "...this is not a subwoofer" - Jeff Bagby ;)

      Comment


      • #33
        Re: New build with pics...

        Originally posted by critofur View Post
        Due to the heated debate, right? You hear a lot of hot air, when cap discussions come up :P

        I like seeing the build threads w/pics too.



        Absolutely!

        Oh, here's a tip:

        Drill the hole as big as the screw shaft, then, soak in some polyurethane, or, sanding sealer, or such in the hole. Get enough in there to soak in a good 1/8th" into the MDF surface and turn it from MDF to plastic. If you do it right, you can get a hole that's almost as good for screwing as plywood! :p It's nice to have a hole that stays tight after repeat screwing and un-screwing
        On TV last night some guy was selling a book on tips on how to do things. He said to put steel wool in the hole and you won't believe how tight the screw gets.
        Nice build not only is you shop to clean. You don't have enough glue speared all over the cabinets.
        http://www.pellegreneacoustics.com/

        Trench Seam Method for MDF
        https://picasaweb.google.com/101632266659473725850

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        • #34
          Re: New build with pics...

          Originally posted by davepellegrene View Post
          You don't have enough glue speared all over the cabinets.
          I thought the same thing. I tend to over do the Titebond. I think he is using Gorilla glue on this build.
          Mark
          Mark
          My TriTrix Build
          My Core 2 Way Build
          My RSS315HF-4 Subwoofer Build

          Comment


          • #35
            Re: New build with pics...

            Actually, I used titebond 2 on main enclosure and window brace. Then I switched to gorilla for the rear brace and front/back. I wished I would have used it on the main brace, for there are some spots where there is a gap, and the gorilla would have expanded to fill it.

            And what is the deal with everyone saying my shop is so clean? Everyone else vacuums the floor and bench and table saw everyday right? That's normal.....right?

            Seriously though, everyone's shop looks clean enough in the photos...


            And a separate note, I got the drivers installed, and did preliminary testing to pick the R9 and C9 values.

            I settled on 6 ohms for R9, and 7.8 uF for C9. I tried from 3.6 to 6 ohms, but it as a little bright until I hit six.
            As for C9, I have to be honest, I really couldn't tell a difference outright. I just listened for while at 6.8, then 8.8, and 7.8 just had a better integrated sound. I am not sure how to explain it.

            I will say this, they are not fully broken in yet, but they do sound very good.

            I left the crossover outside for the testing, and ran the wires through the two post holes. I am not sure how having that leak around the wires will affect the sound.
            Attached Files
            My projects
            https://picasaweb.google.com/112307725038877176664

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            • #36
              Re: New build with pics...

              Originally posted by ckmoore View Post
              Actually, I used titebond 2 on main enclosure and window brace. Then I switched to gorilla for the rear brace and front/back. I wished I would have used it on the main brace, for there are some spots where there is a gap, and the gorilla would have expanded to fill it.

              And what is the deal with everyone saying my shop is so clean? Everyone else vacuums the floor and bench and table saw everyday right? That's normal.....right?

              Seriously though, everyone's shop looks clean enough in the photos...


              And a separate note, I got the drivers installed, and did preliminary testing to pick the R9 and C9 values.

              I settled on 6 ohms for R9, and 7.8 uF for C9. I tried from 3.6 to 6 ohms, but it as a little bright until I hit six.
              As for C9, I have to be honest, I really couldn't tell a difference outright. I just listened for while at 6.8, then 8.8, and 7.8 just had a better integrated sound. I am not sure how to explain it.

              I will say this, they are not fully broken in yet, but they do sound very good.

              I left the crossover outside for the testing, and ran the wires through the two post holes. I am not sure how having that leak around the wires will affect the sound.
              Just a thought.
              Are you listening in the room you intend to use them in. I was shocked on one of my builds how much brighter they werein the mids and how much more base there was when I moved them to the room they are to stay in. As a matter of fact I am planning on reworking the crossovers.
              Dave
              http://www.pellegreneacoustics.com/

              Trench Seam Method for MDF
              https://picasaweb.google.com/101632266659473725850

              Comment


              • #37
                Re: New build with pics...

                Originally posted by critofur View Post
                Due to the heated debate, right? You hear a lot of hot air, when cap discussions come up :P

                I like seeing the build threads w/pics too.



                Absolutely!

                Oh, here's a tip:

                Drill the hole as big as the screw shaft, then, soak in some polyurethane, or, sanding sealer, or such in the hole. Get enough in there to soak in a good 1/8th" into the MDF surface and turn it from MDF to plastic. If you do it right, you can get a hole that's almost as good for screwing as plywood! :p It's nice to have a hole that stays tight after repeat screwing and un-screwing
                I do what Pete does and kind of what you so. I drill an undersized pilot hole and carefully screw the screw in and out. Then I saturate the screwhole with thin superglue. I'll do the saturation thing twice to make sure that it is completely saturated, and then blow the hole out with compressed air to make sure that the cyanoacryilate doesn't close the hole. I've done this with drivers up to 15" and never had a problem.

                Just make sure the glue is cured before putting a screw in it :eek:

                Dave
                "A man with an experience is never at the mercy of a man with an argument." - Hilmar von Campe

                www.piaudiogroup.com

                http://www.avguide.com/blog/tas-rmaf...w-technologies
                http://positive-feedback.com/Issue47/ramblings.htm
                http://positive-feedback.com/Issue47/uber_buss.htm

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                • #38
                  Re: New build with pics...

                  I may have missed it. What is the volume of the cabinet? Looks a bit less than .75 cu/ft
                  Mark


                  http://www.diy-ny.com

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                  • #39
                    Re: New build with pics...

                    Right around .52 cu/ft after bracing. It is sealed.
                    My projects
                    https://picasaweb.google.com/112307725038877176664

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                    • #40
                      Re: New build with pics...

                      great looking build. nice and simple x-over too boot.
                      Thanks,
                      Zach Tripp

                      Comment


                      • #41
                        Re: New build with pics...

                        Originally posted by ckmoore View Post
                        And a separate note, I got the drivers installed, and did preliminary testing to pick the R9 and C9 values.

                        I settled on 6 ohms for R9, and 7.8 uF for C9. I tried from 3.6 to 6 ohms, but it as a little bright until I hit six.
                        As for C9, I have to be honest, I really couldn't tell a difference outright. I just listened for while at 6.8, then 8.8, and 7.8 just had a better integrated sound. I am not sure how to explain it.

                        I will say this, they are not fully broken in yet, but they do sound very good.

                        I left the crossover outside for the testing, and ran the wires through the two post holes. I am not sure how having that leak around the wires will affect the sound.
                        I think I missed this post. The combination of 6 ohms and 7.8 uF sounds like a good choice. Adding 1 uF on C9 will increase the system's output in a narrow range (from 1.5 k to 2.5 kHz) only by 0.4 dB. No wonder why you did not hear much difference. Some people say their ears are sensitive to this small change, though By the way, when you were experimenting with the padding resistance, what value of C9 did you hold?

                        The binding post holes may have generated some hiss if you ran the speakers somewhat loudly. Otherwise, they must have caused Qtc of sealed bass response to become lower than designed.

                        Anyway, if I were you, I wouldn't mind tweaking the R9 and C9 values after finishing the build since the woofers mounted with hurricane nuts could be removed multiple times with no problem. But be careful NOt to bend sandcast resistors' lead wires more than a few times especially at the points where they meet the body. They're fragile.

                        Jay

                        P.S. Did you verify each driver's polarity using a 1.5v battery?
                        Last edited by jkim; 02-02-2010, 05:32 AM.

                        Comment


                        • #42
                          Re: New build with pics...

                          Nice build thread. These are going to be my next project so I'm glad you're posting your progress.

                          I've never built a crossover and the parts are Greek to me for now. Is there any way that you can post a photo of your completed crossover at some point? That would really help me understand how they should go together. Front and back shot would be really nice if you have the time.

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                          • #43
                            Re: New build with pics...

                            Originally posted by jkim View Post
                            ...By the way, when you were experimenting with the padding resistance, what value of C9 did you hold?

                            P.S. Did you verify each driver's polarity using a 1.5v battery?
                            I settled on 7.8uF, if that is what you are asking.

                            And I did not verify the polarity. I will do that though.

                            I am currently in baffle paint mode, so the drivers are not installed.

                            I know the woofer will push out with correct polarity, but how can you tell with tweeters?
                            My projects
                            https://picasaweb.google.com/112307725038877176664

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                            • #44
                              Re: New build with pics...

                              Originally posted by ckmoore View Post
                              I settled on 7.8uF, if that is what you are asking.

                              And I did not verify the polarity. I will do that though.

                              I am currently in baffle paint mode, so the drivers are not installed.

                              I know the woofer will push out with correct polarity, but how can you tell with tweeters?
                              Good. 7.8 uF and 6 ohms will work for you, then. 6.8 uF and 4.7 ohms (or 5.1 ohms) might be worth trying, though, if you haven't.

                              Same thing with tweeters. The dome will come forward with correct polarity.

                              Jay

                              Comment


                              • #45
                                Re: New build with pics...

                                Originally posted by Erich H View Post
                                Nice build thread. These are going to be my next project so I'm glad you're posting your progress.

                                I've never built a crossover and the parts are Greek to me for now. Is there any way that you can post a photo of your completed crossover at some point? That would really help me understand how they should go together. Front and back shot would be really nice if you have the time.
                                Sorry it took me a while to respond. Here are the crossovers. They are mirror imaged so it makes it easier to track which wires go to which component when one is upside down.



                                Here are cabinets ready for finish. Going with flat black baffle, and maple veneer.



                                My projects
                                https://picasaweb.google.com/112307725038877176664

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