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Second round of pics.
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Third round of pics.
Third round of pics.
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Last set of pics.
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I'm super tired, been working all day.
Just also noticed that the B52 flange is 1/4" wider and nearly a 1/4" taller.
And the bolt holes do not line up.
This goes along with it being more heavy-duty than the OEM QSC product.
Pics...
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Last pics, for real this time.
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I know this is older but is the "shortened list" here for the slandered version?Originally posted by Pete Schumacher View PostRe: Flex Your PCD Mettle:
I took those individual curves and applied the offsets based on the PCD summed and measured summed response. I set the woofer forward of the tweeter by 60mm and the woofer .125 meter below center and the tweeter .125 meter above center.
L2 = 4.5mH .3 Ohm
C2 = 12uF
C9 = 5.6uF
R10 = 4.7 Ohm
R16 = 2.7 Ohm
The forward lobe looks very good, especially moving toward and above the tweeter position. the overlay is 45 deg above center point.
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Another question, maybe to Pete:
If I build myself a cabinet and want to stick to the Dayton trap-cab dimensions so to not mess up with baffle step: What is the baffle width I ought to choose? Because the front panel is inset and it's maximum width should be reasonably less than the total width at the frontend of the side panels, which is either 15,523 " (inner) or 16,907 " (outer).Comment
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DC300 standard econowave in old Pioneer cabs about the same size as NLA trap cab. Sound fine to me.
Last edited by djg; 11-05-2020, 09:20 PM.
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hey djg,
thanks for your experience! how wide is your cab?
I thought there would be a math-based truth about that, though. Like, with OB people, baffle width is also extended into depth, does this also apply to infinite baffles like a box? then, the protuding edges of the dayton cabinet would actually add to the baffle width, not the othern way. I don't know, someone who knows the mathematical foundation probably does.Comment
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Cabs are 15 3/4" wide, baffles would then be 14 1/4" wide with a raised 3/4" edge. Everyone's right about a raised edge, I built for a vintage look. I have lots of "proper" speakers. Those Pioneer cabs were $25 and they still worked. I could have put a flush baffle in but I didn't. There they are.
I bet they have more Craigslist resale value as is.
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If you're talking about the outstanding edges around the old trap box, those aren't a real good idea for hi-fi. You'll get gobs of diffraction off them. There's a reason quality speakers for home use don't do that anymore. For Pro use, indestructibility is a big consideration.Originally posted by sheeple View PostFrancisComment
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Shure, I wouldn't inlude them in my build (although there were plenty of high end JBLs/Klipschs with those outstanding edges. And also Zilch wrote, he couldn't really hear the effect and wasn't even quite shure, whether the visible meassurement shifts where caused by the foam or the wood edges). I'm interested to keep the baffle dimensions the "same", so the crossover works.
It is not obvious to me what is the width I need to orient to: https://www.parts-express.com/pedocs...nual-43166.pdf
Width of inset panel (to be calculated), width between outstanding edges (15,523"), width total with outstanding edged (16,907"), maybe even adding their depth to baffle width?
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IS there a more idiots guide to connecting the L-pad? for someone not using PCBOriginally posted by Zilch View PostHere's mine:
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