RSS315HF-4 as the anchor of a 3-way???

[Pete Schumacher]

Re: RSS315HF-4 as the anchor of a 3-way???

Here's the XO layout. Includes space for added notch filter components for the RSS315. The white area is 8.5" x 11". Print out the page, lay it on a nice piece of thin oak veneered plywood, and drill out the holes for the leads. All the wiring will be on the back side for a nice clean look. Eventually everything will get glued down once I'm totally set on the final values.

[DoubleTap]

Re: RSS315HF-4 as the anchor of a 3-way???

It's a $60 camera . . . cut me some slack. :p

I've got some extra veneer laying around. Should I put some of it on a hunk of MDF for testing the methodology?

I've got no problem hand sanding these beasts. They're pretty darn smooth as is, and should not take too long to prep for the finish. There's also a some small chips that will need to be filled along an edge or two.

I know you think I should get some veneer and finish the back panels too. Guess we'll need to take a trip to the hardwood store and see if they have something to compliment the existing veneer.

Yea, laying some up on a piece of MDF would make test finishing easier. The hand sanding will take more elbow grease than you think, there's a point where when sanding with 300-400 grit that the surface takes on a slight sheen ... it all has to get to that point. And even though it feels smooth now, you'll be surprised how much effort it takes. I suppose we could use the palm sander for most of it, if we go slow and don't hit any area long enough for it to heat up.

I'd say that's a Balanced Book match, finding some bal book Walnut is no problem ... pretty much every veneer supplier will carry some.

[Pete Schumacher]

Re: RSS315HF-4 as the anchor of a 3-way???

Gotta get you a new camera Pete ... or somebody to take better pics ;)

Finishing that veneer will be a piece of cake. I'm just worried about it staying stuck after we're done. FYI I'm thinking we'll add the TransTint Red Mahogany directly to the Tung Oil - for the large panels that'll give us a bit more work time to make sure the tint is applied evenly. Probably just one wipe of that then wait a few days since pure tung takes time to dry. For a 'finish' I'm thinking just a hand rubbed wax like Black Bison or Briwax. I really don't want to use a hard finish since the surface tension during drying could cause the PSA veneer to pull up. A rubbed wax finish doesn't provide much protection, but has a very nice natural look. I think it would work fine here since you don't have any flat horizontal surfaces for dust to collect on, and there won't be any crap like lamps sitting on top marring up the finish.

Another thing, I think all sanding should be done by hand unfortunately. Power sanding will create a lot of heat, and more chance for the PSA to delaminate.

It's a $60 camera . . . cut me some slack. :p

I've got some extra veneer laying around. Should I put some of it on a hunk of MDF for testing the methodology?

I've got no problem hand sanding these beasts. They're pretty darn smooth as is, and should not take too long to prep for the finish. There's also a some small chips that will need to be filled along an edge or two.

I know you think I should get some veneer and finish the back panels too. Guess we'll need to take a trip to the hardwood store and see if they have something to compliment the existing veneer.

[DoubleTap]

Re: RSS315HF-4 as the anchor of a 3-way???

Gotta get you a new camera Pete ... or somebody to take better pics ;)

Finishing that veneer will be a piece of cake. I'm just worried about it staying stuck after we're done. FYI I'm thinking we'll add the TransTint Red Mahogany directly to the Tung Oil - for the large panels that'll give us a bit more work time to make sure the tint is applied evenly. Probably just one wipe of that then wait a few days since pure tung takes time to dry. For a 'finish' I'm thinking just a hand rubbed wax like Black Bison or Briwax. I really don't want to use a hard finish since the surface tension during drying could cause the PSA veneer to pull up. A rubbed wax finish doesn't provide much protection, but has a very nice natural look. I think it would work fine here since you don't have any flat horizontal surfaces for dust to collect on, and there won't be any crap like lamps sitting on top marring up the finish.

Another thing, I think all sanding should be done by hand unfortunately. Power sanding will create a lot of heat, and more chance for the PSA to delaminate.

[Pete Schumacher]

Re: RSS315HF-4 as the anchor of a 3-way???

WoW...

I'm catching myself saying that quite a bit during each listening session. :D

I hope I can do justice with the finish. I'm a total noob when it comes to finishing veneer. :o

I broke out Dire Straits' "Brothers in Arms" CD/DVD, a dual side release that has DVD audio on one side and CD audio on the other.

WOW . . .

Assembly starts today on the XOs.

[bbcmp1979]

Re: RSS315HF-4 as the anchor of a 3-way???

WoW...

[Pete Schumacher]

Re: RSS315HF-4 as the anchor of a 3-way???

Progress!!!

Now with XO parts in hand, time to get them both playing at the same time!!!


:D:D:D

Yeah, they are a beeyotch to move around!!! :eek::eek:

[Pete Schumacher]

Re: RSS315HF-4 as the anchor of a 3-way???

a good choice a pale red.. the grain is really nice. I don't care for dark stains on nice grained wood like you have.

You know with this three way and that super killer 4 driver sub (rss390hf) you built you may have a perfect 2.1 system.

I find that I listen to a lot of 2.1 in my ht. I have it set up in such a way that 2.1 or 5.1 can be played.

That Quad RSS390HF sub is not mine, sadly. I built that for my friend Dave, and it sits in his dedicated HT room.

These won't need sub augmentation in any way. They are true full-range 3-ways, with anechoic F3 @ 26Hz, F10 @ 15Hz, thanks to the PR, tuning the 3.3 cubes to 17Hz.

Here's the WinISD modeling comparing PR (pink) to sealed (yellow).

[philiparcario]

Re: RSS315HF-4 as the anchor of a 3-way???

focal mtm over nht1259's


1 dayton rss390hf IB

behind couch for complete setup.

all active with a passive protective cap of 20uf to the tweeter and the 2500uf 1 ohm resister filter to the IB.

your speakers certainly look a lot better and have to be close to the same in SQ (darn good to say the least)

[philiparcario]

Re: RSS315HF-4 as the anchor of a 3-way???

a good choice a pale red.. the grain is really nice. I don't care for dark stains on nice grained wood like you have.

You know with this three way and that super killer 4 driver sub (rss390hf) you built you may have a perfect 2.1 system.

I find that I listen to a lot of 2.1 in my ht. I have it set up in such a way that 2.1 or 5.1 can be played.

[Pete Schumacher]

Re: RSS315HF-4 as the anchor of a 3-way???

nice job pete. scanspeak as a mid was a smart move.

what will you use for color in the finish a nice clear coat or something a bit darker.

Yeah, I have to agree with you on the ScanSpeak choice, and have to thank DoubleTap for providing them. They are ridiculously easy to work with, and really have no shortcomings at all, other than the steep price.

The final finish will probably be a very slight reddish dye, followed by something to pop the grain and then clear coat. The grain is just beautiful. D,Rose sure picked some nice looking veneer.

I've got enough left over to veneer a couple of crossover enclosures that will sit behind each cabinet. I'm also looking seriously at building a set of the ClassDAudio amps to power these beauties, in their own matching veneered enclosures.

[philiparcario]

Re: RSS315HF-4 as the anchor of a 3-way???

nice job pete. scanspeak as a mid was a smart move.



what will you use for color in the finish a nice clear coat or something a bit darker.

[Pete Schumacher]

Re: RSS315HF-4 as the anchor of a 3-way???

Pete, would you care to speculate how the sound would change if you increased the slope of the M/W cross, to LR4? Second order lets you hear a lot of midrange from that big woofer.

Hmmm . . . good question.

I suppose I could wire up a 4th LR at 300Hz and try it out.

As it is, the Scan is still the dominant force in the mids. When I relaxed the woofer just a bit, the lower mids and upper midbass really improved overall. There's just something about that larger diaphragm that imparts the tactile side of the experience that the Scan alone wasn't able to convey.

One speculation is that with the larger overlap of the 2nd order slopes, the transition between drivers is less detectable. If the transition were steeper, it might be easier to tell when the sound of an instrument moves from the mid to the woofer. As it is now, I have no complaints.

XO parts for the pair are on the way according to the email I just got from PE. :D Should have both up and running this weekend (FINALLY) for the critical stereo voicing in their final positions in the room. I'll get some final measurements and write up the design.

[Flint]

Re: RSS315HF-4 as the anchor of a 3-way???

Pete, would you care to speculate how the sound would change if you increased the slope of the M/W cross, to LR4? Second order lets you hear a lot of midrange from that big woofer.

[Pete Schumacher]

Re: RSS315HF-4 as the anchor of a 3-way???

Those really look great . I have been thinking about buying that tweeter and using it with a Peerless 830875. I was planning on using the RSS315HF-4 or the RSS265HF-4 for the woofer duties.

Now that you had time to listen to them , what is thoughts on that tweeter ? It looks like a great deal with the specs. listed on PE's website.

The RS28, A or F version, is an excellent tweeter. It certainly is a top echelon performer from a number of objective standpoints, but my own personal observation with the A version is that it is a laid back driver that doesn't draw a lot of attention to itself. It simply gets the job done with an effortless quality.

The only drawback to the A version over the F version is the top octave performance. My older ears probably wouldn't notice it, but younger ears might well appreciate the extended high end on the fabric version.

The RS28 is a good value, and very tough to beat without spending a LOT more money.

I like the idea of the RS28, 830875 and RSS315. Peerless mid woofers make excellent midrange-only drivers. Relieving bass duties lets them open up beautifully. They really do have some of the nicest sounding mids around.

What I've gathered so far is that the RSS315 likes to go to 300Hz, with a 2nd order filter, and provides a smooth transition to the mid. It may also benefit from a notch at the first resonance (which some have put in the dust cap) but I haven't added that to the XO yet.

I'm wondering if a lightweight damping compound could be added to the dustcap without making it look like crap. It would be better to tame the cause of the resonance than to try and deal with it in the XO.