I'm taking the first steps in the process of my first home audio build. Since Ive learned alot from this and other sites, it's only fair that I post my *attempt* for others to see as well, whether succesfull or not. :o
Now I know alot of you veterans would probably recommend something much easier as a beginner project...and you're probably all correct. But I love to fly by the seat of my pants and dive in head first, so this is going to be a big, big challenge for me. I'm quite sure I'll make many mistakes along the way, but its all a learning process and it will be good fun either way.
My goal is to build a reference level WMTMW system with a much different enclosure look. I want something that doesnt look "boxy" or hard edged, and sounds great too. This thread will be my log of build notes and pictures. I'll update it with ideas, progress, failures (hopefully not too many), and look to you all for suggestions, advice and support.
The drivers I plan on using are:
Usher 8955a
Tang Band W4-1320SJ
Vifa XT25TG30
I *may* end up using LCY110 ribbons Im aquiring if I like the sound better as they will still be a decent fit with the overall system. The crossover duties will be handled actively by a Behringer DCX2496. I like the versatility, easy adjustment and tuning, and the option to use it on other builds down the line.
That said, here are my initial *rough* sketches for enclosures.


Because of the shape of the rear portion, I will be doing a mix of fiberglass and wood construction for this project. A rear "shell" and a front baffle would be two pieces, then mated together. I'm no FG expert, but I have used it before and feel comfortable at least with the work. My plan is to build a "mold" to then use to create the shells so that they are visually consistent.
To do this, I went with the recommendation of a friend to use foam to create the base for the mold. I used the polystyrene insulation foam found at the local Home Depot. The reason I used this is its ability to be shaped and smoothed using a standard wood working "cheese-grater" and sand paper. The sheets come in different sizes. I used the 2" thick, 24" X 96" pieces.

Cut to size, 12" X 44"



And then joined together using the 3M High Strength 90 spray adhesive. This is probably not the best stuff available to use, but it made good strong bonds.
Now I know alot of you veterans would probably recommend something much easier as a beginner project...and you're probably all correct. But I love to fly by the seat of my pants and dive in head first, so this is going to be a big, big challenge for me. I'm quite sure I'll make many mistakes along the way, but its all a learning process and it will be good fun either way.
My goal is to build a reference level WMTMW system with a much different enclosure look. I want something that doesnt look "boxy" or hard edged, and sounds great too. This thread will be my log of build notes and pictures. I'll update it with ideas, progress, failures (hopefully not too many), and look to you all for suggestions, advice and support.
The drivers I plan on using are:
Usher 8955a
Tang Band W4-1320SJ
Vifa XT25TG30
I *may* end up using LCY110 ribbons Im aquiring if I like the sound better as they will still be a decent fit with the overall system. The crossover duties will be handled actively by a Behringer DCX2496. I like the versatility, easy adjustment and tuning, and the option to use it on other builds down the line.
That said, here are my initial *rough* sketches for enclosures.


Because of the shape of the rear portion, I will be doing a mix of fiberglass and wood construction for this project. A rear "shell" and a front baffle would be two pieces, then mated together. I'm no FG expert, but I have used it before and feel comfortable at least with the work. My plan is to build a "mold" to then use to create the shells so that they are visually consistent.
To do this, I went with the recommendation of a friend to use foam to create the base for the mold. I used the polystyrene insulation foam found at the local Home Depot. The reason I used this is its ability to be shaped and smoothed using a standard wood working "cheese-grater" and sand paper. The sheets come in different sizes. I used the 2" thick, 24" X 96" pieces.

Cut to size, 12" X 44"



And then joined together using the 3M High Strength 90 spray adhesive. This is probably not the best stuff available to use, but it made good strong bonds.

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