Re: First build, in progress...
You could always add another sheet of foam to the flat side to increase volume or 2 sheets to make sure you have enough volume.
Normally, making fiberglass parts requires that the model be what you want the finished product to look like. It is as smooth as your finished product will be and will have the exact shape. Then you do what is called making a "splash" of the model which entails pouring something like plaster all over the model so that you have an exact mirror of what you will be building. You will have to make a box to hold the liquid plaster and your model in place while the plaster dries. This might be difficult with foam because it will want to float. You will also have to apply some mold "release agent to your model so the plaster doesn't stick.
Then you remove your model as soon as the plasterk, now called the mold, is set up enough so it doesn't collapse. Your model will have to taper from the front to the back at all times. This is called a "draft angle". Without it you would not be able to remove your model without breaking the mold.
Then you will have a mold that you lay your fiberglass into and it will have a finish as smooth as your model. Of course the plaster will need a release agent applied to it also. The liquid glass will be against the mold, it will permeate the glass cloth and you can add bracing to the interior as you make your mold. Any bracing material can be covered with fiberglass with the fiberglass being the basis of your structural strength and the bracing material basically a mold to be covered over.
This way you will get an exact replication every time and you only have to sand the exterior once. Volume can be adjusted by how much of the shell is cut off. The more you cut off, the less the volume. Best to make it plenty large to begin with. You can then fill your shell with water and measure the volume with bracing rather than trying to calculate it.
I actually have a pair of speakers that were made of fiberglass by Community Loudspeaker. If I get around to it I will pull them off the shelf and take some pictures. They are basically designed as you are doing with top, bottom and sides rounding and tapering to the back. The baffle is also made of fiberglass with built in mid range horns and mounting for compression driver and 15" woofers.
Originally posted by captainobvious99
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Normally, making fiberglass parts requires that the model be what you want the finished product to look like. It is as smooth as your finished product will be and will have the exact shape. Then you do what is called making a "splash" of the model which entails pouring something like plaster all over the model so that you have an exact mirror of what you will be building. You will have to make a box to hold the liquid plaster and your model in place while the plaster dries. This might be difficult with foam because it will want to float. You will also have to apply some mold "release agent to your model so the plaster doesn't stick.
Then you remove your model as soon as the plasterk, now called the mold, is set up enough so it doesn't collapse. Your model will have to taper from the front to the back at all times. This is called a "draft angle". Without it you would not be able to remove your model without breaking the mold.
Then you will have a mold that you lay your fiberglass into and it will have a finish as smooth as your model. Of course the plaster will need a release agent applied to it also. The liquid glass will be against the mold, it will permeate the glass cloth and you can add bracing to the interior as you make your mold. Any bracing material can be covered with fiberglass with the fiberglass being the basis of your structural strength and the bracing material basically a mold to be covered over.
This way you will get an exact replication every time and you only have to sand the exterior once. Volume can be adjusted by how much of the shell is cut off. The more you cut off, the less the volume. Best to make it plenty large to begin with. You can then fill your shell with water and measure the volume with bracing rather than trying to calculate it.
I actually have a pair of speakers that were made of fiberglass by Community Loudspeaker. If I get around to it I will pull them off the shelf and take some pictures. They are basically designed as you are doing with top, bottom and sides rounding and tapering to the back. The baffle is also made of fiberglass with built in mid range horns and mounting for compression driver and 15" woofers.
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