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Fun with T-amps - I didn't know what I was missing.
Re: Fun with T-amps - I didn't know what I was missing.
will you elaborate. i dont see what you mean in that post.
" To me, the soundstage presentation is more about phase and distortion and less about size. However, when you talk about bass extension, there's no replacement for displacement". Tyger23. 4.2015
Quote Originally Posted by hongrn. Oct 2014
Do you realize that being an American is like winning the biggest jackpot ever??
Re: Fun with T-amps - I didn't know what I was missing.
please suggest one.
" To me, the soundstage presentation is more about phase and distortion and less about size. However, when you talk about bass extension, there's no replacement for displacement". Tyger23. 4.2015
Quote Originally Posted by hongrn. Oct 2014
Do you realize that being an American is like winning the biggest jackpot ever??
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Or, you could just use something cheaper to get started. I use 4k, switched shunt stepped attenuators built with .1% surface mount resistors which cost $100. The earlier post that stated that Sure recommends an active pre is backwards. Sure actually cautions against it. There is protection on the board (which I remove to improve the sound) but one of the peculiarities of the the Tripath chip set is that if you clip the input with a signal of much greater than 4v, you can blow the amp.
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Or, you could just use something cheaper to get started. I use 4k, switched shunt stepped attenuators built with .1% surface mount resistors which cost $100. The earlier post that stated that Sure recommends an active pre is backwards. Sure actually cautions against it. There is protection on the board (which I remove to improve the sound) but one of the peculiarities of the the Tripath chip set is that if you clip the input with a signal of much greater than 4v, you can blow the amp.
I must apologize for stating Sure recommends a pre-amp for input control, however nowhere in Sure's user guide for the 2*100 board does it say you can't. The user guide states if you use a pre-amp the gain switches must be set to low. Sendler is correct that Sure warns against using a pre-amp on the 4*100 boards that it could burn out the boards only because that board doesn't have gain switches. Sure also recommends a 50k pot for volume control but there seems to be alot of confusion on which one to use at diyaudio. Sendler why not use a 20k-50k pot? I've never really gotten a straight answer on this.
I must apologize for stating Sure recommends a pre-amp for input control, however nowhere in Sure's user guide for the 2*100 board does it say you can't. The user guide states if you use a pre-amp the gain switches must be set to low. Sendler is correct that Sure warns against using a pre-amp on the 4*100 boards that it could burn out the boards only because that board doesn't have gain switches. Sure also recommends a 50k pot for volume control but there seems to be alot of confusion on which one to use at diyaudio. Sendler why not use a 20k-50k pot? I've never really gotten a straight answer on this.
Dan
Sure has a note on the page for the 2X100 at the bottom cautioning about the use of preamps even though the 2X100 features a sound robbing limiter across the bottom of the input jacks. In practice, common sense use of an active pre won't be a problem. In other words, make certain the volume knob is turned down before switching on the amp and don't push it beyond where it starts to sound bad.
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The only problem with passive volume controls is the high output impedance which interacts with whatever cable and actives that follow it. Passives are a trade off between having an input impedance that is high enough for your source to drive easily and, an output impedance that is low enough to minimize the interactions such as loss of dynamics and roll offs at the frequency extremes. Pick the lowest impedance volume control that your source still sounds good into and eliminate any wiring following it. Generally, modern solid state sources will easily drive 10k. If you mod the 2X100 for use with an in case passive volume control, you can also eliminate the terminating resistors R14,34 as per the diagram that audio1st has posted in order to raise the impedance that is trying to load down the passive control.
" To me, the soundstage presentation is more about phase and distortion and less about size. However, when you talk about bass extension, there's no replacement for displacement". Tyger23. 4.2015
Quote Originally Posted by hongrn. Oct 2014
Do you realize that being an American is like winning the biggest jackpot ever??
watt rating is not that important. it is line level signal low watts and low volts are the rule.
most cd players are 2 volts max at low amps so very low watts pass through it. you can start with the stereo pe and if it sound bad upgrade to the alps.
Re: Fun with T-amps - I didn't know what I was missing.
i'll trust you on that. thank you.
now i'll just have to figure out how to hook in up.
Last edited by [email protected]; 05-29-2010, 06:11 PM.
Reason: more
" To me, the soundstage presentation is more about phase and distortion and less about size. However, when you talk about bass extension, there's no replacement for displacement". Tyger23. 4.2015
Quote Originally Posted by hongrn. Oct 2014
Do you realize that being an American is like winning the biggest jackpot ever??
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