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This was my first venture into DIY speaker building and I can't wait to start my next project!
The Quindici Subwoofer (pronounced queen dee chee) is a variation of the original Triska Subwoofer design built in a 15" cube and using a Dayton SA100 plate amp with a Dayton 10" DVC shielded woofer, and 2 Dayton 10" passive radiators.
I was told that since this was technically a new design, it also needed a new name. Since Shawn A's original Triska Subwoofer derived its' name from its' dimensions, I decided to follow suit. Being of Italian heritage, I chose the name "Quindici"; which means 15 in the Italian language.
Some of these photos are repeats from an earlier posting, and additional photos can be found on my photobucket account. http://s790.photobucket.com/albums/y...fer%20variant/
I decided to make my own circle jig for my router and it worked surprisingly well:
I tested my work on some extra materials and was glad I did, it gave me much more confidence going into my finish pieces and taught me how much dust MDF creates:
Next I built the cabinet with the help of a friend's table saw. I used a piece of white pine for the front baffle, as it will be getting a different fiinsh from the rest of the box. Biscuits were used at the joints. No screws were used, only Gorilla wood glue:
I also did some test samples for the finishes:
Next I routed out my driver recesses and amp cutouts, and applied two coats of automotive primer:
I wetsanded the primer with 320 grit paper and applied a first coat of black laquer. It let me know how bad my prep work was and I had to do some additional priming and wetsanding:
Barbed inserts were installed in the bottom of the cabinet for cone spikes. The bottom also proved to be a nice testing area for the finish work:
I followed Bmaupin's piano black thread for the finish. It was extremely informative, and I won't outline my progress here, as he explains every step thoroughly. I only wish I had his finishing skills... 2 coats of auto primer, 3 coats of black laquer and 3 coats of clear laquer with wetsanding in between each coat and after the final coat:
Next began the parts install, all mounting holes were drille prior to finish coat:
The front baffle is a piece of white pine. I borrowed Wolf's burning effect to accentuate the wood grain (making sure to resaturate the wood) and then stained with Minwax China Red to match my coffee and end tables. Clear laquer was also applied, wetsanded, and buffed. This also shows that I didn't order enough acoustic foam and had to suppliment with carpet padding... worked just fine in a double layer. Silicone was applied to all interior seams and the holes for the barbed inserts prior to wall dampening installation:
28 grams of mass were added to the passive radiators prior to installation. I used some stainless fender washers and the supplied 5mm bolt, Loctite was used to avoid any loosening:
I used some 16 AWG flat speaker wire to connect the driver. Female blade connectors were soldered to the wires and heatshrink tubing made the connections pretty. The DVC driver is wired in parallel, positive to positive and negative to negative. The wire harness was then secured to the cabinet floor using a screw-mounting wire tie:
Baxter was a little anxious to get the show on the road:
Installing the final screw was a bittersweet moment, as I thoroughly enjoyed this project through every moment:
A final photo in the workshop before moving upstairs for initial listening. The front baffle looks much more orange in this photo, it's actually a much deeper red:
A new home:
And a shot showing the cone spikes and floor I should have cleaned prior to taking this photo:
I'm amazed at he bass this little cube can generate. I have no measuring equipment other than my ears, but the bass is clean, crisp, and powerful enough to throw a nice punch in my home theater. I'm currently running the volume at about one third, and the crossover about one quarter way. My receiver also has a crossover built-in, and I'm not sure where to set that just yet..
This project was a blast in so many ways, and I could never have done it without the help of this fine message board and all of its' inhabitants.
Special thanks to Shawn A. for sharing his original Triska design and inspiring this project.
Special thanks to Wolf for his infinite wisdom and patience in helping me design the enclosure, offering his sage advice, and answering my noobie questions.
And a special thanks to Bmaupin for his piano black thread.
I look forward to any questions and/or commentary, and especially look forward to starting my next build - the Aviatrix left, right and center channels. Come on PE don't keep me waiting, let's see the Aviatrix driver package soon!;)
Johnny Ravo
The Quindici Subwoofer (pronounced queen dee chee) is a variation of the original Triska Subwoofer design built in a 15" cube and using a Dayton SA100 plate amp with a Dayton 10" DVC shielded woofer, and 2 Dayton 10" passive radiators.
I was told that since this was technically a new design, it also needed a new name. Since Shawn A's original Triska Subwoofer derived its' name from its' dimensions, I decided to follow suit. Being of Italian heritage, I chose the name "Quindici"; which means 15 in the Italian language.
Some of these photos are repeats from an earlier posting, and additional photos can be found on my photobucket account. http://s790.photobucket.com/albums/y...fer%20variant/
I decided to make my own circle jig for my router and it worked surprisingly well:
I tested my work on some extra materials and was glad I did, it gave me much more confidence going into my finish pieces and taught me how much dust MDF creates:
Next I built the cabinet with the help of a friend's table saw. I used a piece of white pine for the front baffle, as it will be getting a different fiinsh from the rest of the box. Biscuits were used at the joints. No screws were used, only Gorilla wood glue:
I also did some test samples for the finishes:
Next I routed out my driver recesses and amp cutouts, and applied two coats of automotive primer:
I wetsanded the primer with 320 grit paper and applied a first coat of black laquer. It let me know how bad my prep work was and I had to do some additional priming and wetsanding:
Barbed inserts were installed in the bottom of the cabinet for cone spikes. The bottom also proved to be a nice testing area for the finish work:
I followed Bmaupin's piano black thread for the finish. It was extremely informative, and I won't outline my progress here, as he explains every step thoroughly. I only wish I had his finishing skills... 2 coats of auto primer, 3 coats of black laquer and 3 coats of clear laquer with wetsanding in between each coat and after the final coat:
Next began the parts install, all mounting holes were drille prior to finish coat:
The front baffle is a piece of white pine. I borrowed Wolf's burning effect to accentuate the wood grain (making sure to resaturate the wood) and then stained with Minwax China Red to match my coffee and end tables. Clear laquer was also applied, wetsanded, and buffed. This also shows that I didn't order enough acoustic foam and had to suppliment with carpet padding... worked just fine in a double layer. Silicone was applied to all interior seams and the holes for the barbed inserts prior to wall dampening installation:
28 grams of mass were added to the passive radiators prior to installation. I used some stainless fender washers and the supplied 5mm bolt, Loctite was used to avoid any loosening:
I used some 16 AWG flat speaker wire to connect the driver. Female blade connectors were soldered to the wires and heatshrink tubing made the connections pretty. The DVC driver is wired in parallel, positive to positive and negative to negative. The wire harness was then secured to the cabinet floor using a screw-mounting wire tie:
Baxter was a little anxious to get the show on the road:
Installing the final screw was a bittersweet moment, as I thoroughly enjoyed this project through every moment:
A final photo in the workshop before moving upstairs for initial listening. The front baffle looks much more orange in this photo, it's actually a much deeper red:
A new home:
And a shot showing the cone spikes and floor I should have cleaned prior to taking this photo:
I'm amazed at he bass this little cube can generate. I have no measuring equipment other than my ears, but the bass is clean, crisp, and powerful enough to throw a nice punch in my home theater. I'm currently running the volume at about one third, and the crossover about one quarter way. My receiver also has a crossover built-in, and I'm not sure where to set that just yet..
This project was a blast in so many ways, and I could never have done it without the help of this fine message board and all of its' inhabitants.
Special thanks to Shawn A. for sharing his original Triska design and inspiring this project.
Special thanks to Wolf for his infinite wisdom and patience in helping me design the enclosure, offering his sage advice, and answering my noobie questions.
And a special thanks to Bmaupin for his piano black thread.
I look forward to any questions and/or commentary, and especially look forward to starting my next build - the Aviatrix left, right and center channels. Come on PE don't keep me waiting, let's see the Aviatrix driver package soon!;)
Johnny Ravo
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