on Sale - $55/pr (drivers & XO)

[Soundslike]

Re: on Sale - $55/pr (drivers & XO)

Very nice! I would upgrade the 2.0 Mh to a coil if possible. It is about $3.3 more but WELL worth it since ALL the parts Chris has chosen is on a budget. Not saying the parts he chose is bad, its just a good idea to upgrade the parts to get that extra little kick out of them (worth doing, worth over doing).

I've already started soldering -- is there a consensus amongst the builders here that the air coil produces a worthwhile benefit? I've noticed some discussion lately, but this string is so long, I hate to go back and read everything again.

[Soundslike]

Re: on Sale - $55/pr (drivers & XO)

what grit are you using on the epoxy? when it was gumming on me I used 80 on a orbital sander. Once the shine was off it sanded ok with 100/120

I haven't gone as low as 80 grit, but I've tried several different grits, ranging from 100 up through 220. It's giving me a lot more grief than a previous build where I also used fiberglass polyester resin. I think I somehow didn't get enough catalyst in the mix, although I was careful to measure everything. It's also possible that the acetone used to thin the resin changes the catalyst to resin ratio, i.e., more catalyst is required. It'll harden eventually...

[Mikers]

Re: on Sale - $55/pr (drivers & XO)

what grit are you using on the epoxy? when it was gumming on me I used 80 on a orbital sander. Once the shine was off it sanded ok with 100/120

[nick650]

Re: on Sale - $55/pr (drivers & XO)

Very nice! I would upgrade the 2.0 Mh to a coil if possible. It is about $3.3 more but WELL worth it since ALL the parts Chris has chosen is on a budget. Not saying the parts he chose is bad, its just a good idea to upgrade the parts to get that extra little kick out of them (worth doing, worth over doing).

[Soundslike]

Re: on Sale - $55/pr (drivers & XO)

Here's a closer view of a driver inserted into the relief I routed into the baffle. If the driver looks like it's been around the block, it has. I've handled it a lot in coming up with a pattern for the router. The fit isn't perfect, but it's very close -- driver press-fits into the relief tightly enough to hold it in for the photo.



I think I mentioned before that I'm thinking of trimming the driver flange with plastic laminate. I cut the relief deep enough to accommodate the trim, the flange, and a gasket behind the driver. The gasket that comes with the driver is minimal, to say the least. But then, they didn't make these to be flush mounted.

Here's a photo showing the trim piece I made which would cover the black flange, and the glue smudges left over from fitting the rubber surround at the factory.



Try to visualize how the trim would look on a black baffle, if you can. There will be four allen head cap screws in the holes also. The final trim pieces should match the opening better too. I'm not certain I'll use these yet.

In the next photo I'm wet sanding the enclosure after it has been sealed with fiberglass resin diluted with acetone, and body filler has been applied to defects. This has been the most difficult part of this build -- the resin has been very slow to cure and will clog sandpaper almost instantly. That's the reason for the wet sanding process -- that's the only way I've been able to sand them.



I'm currently building the crossovers. Here's a drawing that shows the layout. The board is sized to allow insertion through the driver openings.



This last drawing is a mirrored copy that shows how the components are wired together under the board, to complete the circuitry.

[nick650]

Re: on Sale - $55/pr (drivers & XO)

Nick,

I am not thinking of using the same crossover again. I would just like a compatible tweeter of a little higher quality and maybe crossed over a little lower. I would also like to do a build with less emphasis on the budget and more emphasis on quality components in the cross over.

Scott

See that is what I did. I upgraded the resistors to the Dayton audio grade and then the mills for the woofers. I also did a 18 AWG for the woofer coil series, a cross-cap for the tweeter as my improvement. I also plan to change out the electrolytic caps for some decent caps like the Dayton Audio caps so that my circuit is more true to what it should be. There isn't much you really can do to improve what is here. This was created with budget in mind (while sounding the best as possible and every time I play them my jaw drops) and changing out parts will require modification to the X-over. Try out the Modula/Nat P tower if budget isn't a factor since that will eat your budget and sound the next level then trying to create a whole new X-over with different parts.

[Herman Trivilino]

Re: on Sale - $55/pr (drivers & XO)

A tweeter that has 6 ohms and can play what the crossover is set at.

I don't think that'll work.

I shall let the tweeter break in and see how they sound then. I hardly have 2 hours in them.

Let 'em play while you're out and about. I set mine out in the garage, cranked them up to a decent volume, and left them playing while I was at work.

[fastbike1]

Re: on Sale - $55/pr (drivers & XO)

Why not pick a build with higher quality drivers to start. As many have commented, it doesn't make much sense to spend $30 in copper for a $15 driver.

Also, there is significant difference of opinion about how much audible difference there is/is not in XO components once you're at lest at the Dayton/Bennic - Jantzen level.

Nick,

I am not thinking of using the same crossover again. I would just like a compatible tweeter of a little higher quality and maybe crossed over a little lower. I would also like to do a build with less emphasis on the budget and more emphasis on quality components in the cross over.

Scott

[MLS]

Re: on Sale - $55/pr (drivers & XO)

Nick,

I am not thinking of using the same crossover again. I would just like a compatible tweeter of a little higher quality and maybe crossed over a little lower. I would also like to do a build with less emphasis on the budget and more emphasis on quality components in the cross over.

Scott

[nick650]

Re: on Sale - $55/pr (drivers & XO)

A tweeter that has 6 ohms and can play what the crossover is set at.

I got the DIY ITCH! I have found my next project! I have decided to build the Modula MT (Nat P speakers but the upgraded version in both parts and X-over for even better sound).

I shall let the tweeter break in and see how they sound then. I hardly have 2 hours in them.

[MLS]

Re: on Sale - $55/pr (drivers & XO)

Could anyone recommend a tweeter that would be a step up and work well with the ND105 in the same box? Sort of a Nano Neo+.

MLS

[isaeagle4031]

Re: on Sale - $55/pr (drivers & XO)

I noticed the same thing with my tweets. After a couple of hours, they tamed down and are just perfect now. I'm thinking about building another couple of sets of these now, only not towers!!

[Herman Trivilino]

Re: on Sale - $55/pr (drivers & XO)

I've noticed and commented on the fact that the tweeters are shrill until broken in. I noticed this on the ntn's and before that on the Overnights. They have the same tweeter. They sound shrill. To me, anyway. But it goes away after a few hours of break-in.

[Chris Roemer]

Re: on Sale - $55/pr (drivers & XO)

My tweeters might need to be tweaked to be lower. What size of resistance should I use and what resistor does it replace? How many DB lower will it give or do I need to experiment? This might be caused by the lower DC resistance of my coil (Jantzen 0.25mH 18 AWG Air Core Inductor)

http://techtalk.parts-express.com/album.php?albumid=356&pictureid=3425

Thanks

In the L-pad, a 5ohm SR (series, WAS 4n) and 1.5n PR, MIGHT drop the tweets by about 1dB.

For 2dB, go 6n on SR, and 1.2n on PR (parallel resistor), this was the 2n initially.

Your coil's DCR doesn't really matter, that coil is a shunt.

For more bass (therefore quieter highs), back the ntns up to the wall. I think you're the 1st to comment that the highs are too loud.

Chris

[nick650]

Re: on Sale - $55/pr (drivers & XO)

My tweeters might need to be tweaked to be lower. What size of resistance should I use and what resistor does it replace? How many DB lower will it give or do I need to experiment? This might be caused by the lower DC resistance of my coil (Jantzen 0.25mH 18 AWG Air Core Inductor)

http://techtalk.parts-express.com/album.php?albumid=356&pictureid=3425

Thanks