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  • Re: on Sale - $55/pr (drivers & XO)

    Chris,

    I am having a hard time getting all 8 components on the 3.5"X 4" board. Do you have any suggestions?

    Scott

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    • Re: on Sale - $55/pr (drivers & XO)

      Originally posted by fastbike1 View Post
      Flush mount is usually taken to mean that the top of the flange is flush with the cabinet (what you're calling recess). Surface mount is used to describe mounting "on the surface" without a rebate/recess.

      Most so far have surface mounted because, as you stated, flush mounting is a bit fiddly.
      Ahhh ... Thank you for clearing that up.

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      • Re: on Sale - $55/pr (drivers & XO)

        Here is my first attempt at a PTP Xover

        Positive input comes in between the 80mh and the 4.3 cap

        High pass out put is where the 3ohm and 4 ohm resister meet and the low pass out put is at the end of the 80mh lead

        Did I do it right?

        Thanks,

        MLS
        Attached Files

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        • Re: on Sale - $55/pr (drivers & XO)

          MLS, looking at the photos, it's too difficult for me to tell how it's wired up. Can you make a sketch and post it here?

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          • Re: on Sale - $55/pr (drivers & XO)

            I did it just like Chris's diagram in his blog. I am pretty sure I have it right. Tomorrow I will probably get a chance to do the other one, solder them up and finish the cabinet assembly.

            mls

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            • Re: on Sale - $55/pr (drivers & XO)

              Originally posted by Drew_V View Post
              I did want to make a few changes, however. First, I wanted to lower the height of the drivers so the tweeter was at ear level while seated at my computer. I figure that would take them down maybe 2 inches. Then, I was going to change the port to front-firing, so I'd have to drop that down as well. The terminal cup would then likely have to go above the port location on the rear of the cabinet. No big deal, but I figured I'd post it here to see if anyone sees any potential problems with this configuration.


              After reading this, I suspect that I will just keep the port in the rear of the cabinet. But I still plan to move the TM drivers down 2 inches to ear height.

              http://www.ellisaudio.com/porthole.htm

              I may have to drop the port position slightly to move it down away from the woofer, but I hope that's not an issue.


              EDIT: Just got my goodies from PE for the NNs. Incredibly fast order processing and shipping. Everything appears to be in good condition, too. These Neos drivers are TINY. Holy crap, I guess I didn't expect them to be so small. Anyway, gonna build the crossover tomorrow. Should be easy since the components are so small (only 5W resistors and NPE caps). They will easily fit on a 3x4 board (6-element version).
              Last edited by Drew_V; 02-26-2011, 02:44 PM. Reason: Props to Parts Express

              Comment


              • Re: on Sale - $55/pr (drivers & XO)

                Re: Port Position. That's hardly an authoritative source. A lot will depend on specific design of the speaker/port, so hard to use a one size fits all approach. Rear ported can have other issues if too close to a rear boundary. Front porting will generally be problematic if your port velocity is high. Like everything else in the design, it's a compromise.

                Moving the drivers down may have more impact than anything else. The ND015 hardly needs boudary reinforcement to have big bass :D.


                Originally posted by Drew_V View Post
                After reading this, I suspect that I will just keep the port in the rear of the cabinet. But I still plan to move the TM drivers down 2 inches to ear height.

                http://www.ellisaudio.com/porthole.htm

                I may have to drop the port position slightly to move it down away from the woofer, but I hope that's not an issue.


                EDIT: Just got my goodies from PE for the NNs. Incredibly fast order processing and shipping. Everything appears to be in good condition, too. These Neos drivers are TINY. Holy crap, I guess I didn't expect them to be so small. Anyway, gonna build the crossover tomorrow. Should be easy since the components are so small (only 5W resistors and NPE caps). They will easily fit on a 3x4 board (6-element version).
                I was so much older then, I'm younger than that now.
                OS MTMs http://techtalk.parts-express.com/sh...d.php?t=220388
                Swope TM http://techtalk.parts-express.com/sh...d.php?t=221818
                Econowave and Audio Nirvana AN10 fullrange http://techtalk.parts-express.com/sh...d.php?t=216841
                Imperial Russian Stouts http://techtalk.parts-express.com/sh...=1#post1840444
                LECBOS. http://techtalk.parts-express.com/sh...ghlight=lecbos

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                • Re: on Sale - $55/pr (drivers & XO)

                  After waiting for my new sander to arrive as well as some ez lock nuts, I was finally able to glue in the last panel on each cabinet today and get a little preliminary sanding done. Will have a bit of bondo work to do tomorrow due to a router snafu but the rabbet joints make for a pretty good fitting cabinet. Then I still have to prime and sand. The paint I bought is a flat black. Still deciding if that's what I'll end up with though. The ez lock nuts seem far superior to the hurricane nuts. I put them in with some glue on the outer threads. I don't think they'll be going anywhere. I hate the hurricane nuts!

                  JustinL42

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                  • Re: on Sale - $55/pr (drivers & XO)

                    Soldered up my 8 piece Xovers last night. Hopefully I will make some more progress on the cabinets today.

                    I also put some dynamat on the spokes of the driver just because I had some and I usually do that to all my drivers.

                    MLS
                    Attached Files

                    Comment


                    • Re: on Sale - $55/pr (drivers & XO)

                      My parts should be here tomorrow. I ordered whatever was on Chris's original shopping cart. Started laying out the the cuts on the MDF yesterday. This is my first foray into "real crossovers" so I'm looking forward to that part. Picked up a few more bar clamps at Harbor Freight, along with some dust masks and hole saws. I'm armed and dangerous! Just need a 3/8" rabbeting bit and I'm ready.

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                      • Re: on Sale - $55/pr (drivers & XO)

                        Originally posted by ericJ View Post
                        My parts should be here tomorrow. I ordered whatever was on Chris's original shopping cart. Started laying out the the cuts on the MDF yesterday. This is my first foray into "real crossovers" so I'm looking forward to that part. Picked up a few more bar clamps at Harbor Freight, along with some dust masks and hole saws. I'm armed and dangerous! Just need a 3/8" rabbeting bit and I'm ready.
                        It's funny how many guys seemed to go with the rabbet joinery that I've used. You CAN build these with buut joints (or any other method you prefer), but you'd have to change the cut sheet (which is VERY tight - especially for the 0.28 cf boxes). Changing the box dims slightly wouldn't be a problem, just aim for the same volume (even THAT isn't horribly critical - PE's Dayton 0.25 cf cabs could make some nice looking Nano Neos, OR ntns in 0.50 cf). I don't even have a router, I use my dad's (it's his rabbet bit too, and I use his roundovers as well). I use particle board too (it's 1/2 to 1/3 the price of MDF), and you CAN cut the rabbets with a table saw as well (yup, my dad's), but THAT really ripped up the PB, whereas the routered ones are VERY clean.

                        Chris

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                        • Re: on Sale - $55/pr (drivers & XO)

                          I apologize in advance if these questions have been answered, but I'm not exactly very knowledgeable when it comes to electronics. I've built a few subwoofer boxes with excellent results for cars, but I'm a bit new to this, so bear with me.

                          I'm building a set of speakers for my father in law as a birthday present following a year's worth of fighting lung cancer and just now recovering, and I have a month to get them built including shipping time, and I have absolutely no idea what to do with crossovers. Going for an MTM configuration. Here's what I've ordered:

                          2 of these ND20FA tweeters:
                          http://www.parts-express.com/pe/psho...number=275-030

                          4 of these ND105's in 4 ohm:
                          http://www.parts-express.com/pe/psho...number=290-212

                          Got some binding posts, some 1.5" acoustic foam, and these capacitors as recommended from another forum:

                          10x http://www.parts-express.com/pe/psho...number=027-400
                          2x http://www.parts-express.com/pe/psho...number=027-408

                          Not sure if I'll be able to use these capacitors in this case, but here's where I need help.

                          I saw the list of parts needed for the crossovers earlier. Very nice list, but two of those items are not available anymore and I'm having an extremely difficult time finding them elsewhere.

                          I know how to solder (I repair power jacks on laptop motherboards as a side business), I know how to build boxes, I have WinISD and I'm playing with that now as well. I have 3/4" mdf in my garage I can build the boxes out of.

                          Here's what I need help with.

                          1. what parts do I need to build good crossovers?
                          2. how do I wire up said crossovers? I saw some diagrams earlier in this thread but like I said I'm not exactly electronically inclined and I'd need either a bit of explanation or something simpler to look at. Any help here would be very much appreciated.
                          2. what box specs are recommended for MTM configurations, at what port tuning frequencies?
                          3. Does anyone have any pre-built box specs that I could follow instead of trying to figure it out on my own? I did see some cut sheets here earlier but I don't recall if those were for the TM's or MTM's.

                          Thanks in advance!
                          Modding the Lepai T-Amp

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                          • Re: on Sale - $55/pr (drivers & XO)

                            Edit...I saw someone who built a set as floorstanding drivers. I would like to do the same thing. At least that way, I'd have enough volume. I'd also like to make sure that I have a large enough port to prevent port noise.
                            Modding the Lepai T-Amp

                            Comment


                            • Re: on Sale - $55/pr (drivers & XO)

                              Originally posted by XtremeRevolution View Post
                              I saw the list of parts needed for the crossovers earlier. Very nice list, but two of those items are not available anymore and I'm having an extremely difficult time finding them elsewhere.
                              Which parts are those? We'll find a work-around.

                              2. what box specs are recommended for MTM configurations, at what port tuning frequencies?
                              3. Does anyone have any pre-built box specs that I could follow instead of trying to figure it out on my own? I did see some cut sheets here earlier but I don't recall if those were for the TM's or MTM's.
                              From Post #18 by Chris Roemer in this thread ...

                              My cabinet choice: 28"h x 6"w x 9.5"d. 0.55 cf
                              A 2"d x 7" long rear vent centered 10" up from the bottom tunes this box to 39 Hz yielding an F3 of 38. I'd mount the upper woofer's center 4" down from the box top. This puts the tweeter at about 21", so theese should sound best on about 12" high stands.

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                              • Re: on Sale - $55/pr (drivers & XO)

                                Originally posted by XtremeRevolution View Post
                                I saw the list of parts needed for the crossovers earlier. Very nice list, but two of those items are not available anymore and I'm having an extremely difficult time finding them elsewhere.


                                1. what parts do I need to build good crossovers?



                                You can replace 015-4 with 016-4 from the ntn parts list. http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...rtnumber=016-4

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