on Sale - $55/pr (drivers & XO)

[Herman Trivilino]

Re: on Sale - $55/pr (drivers & XO)

When I was building Paul Carmody's Overnight Sensation I learned the trick of chamfering the tweeter hole from Bill Schneider's posts.

If you look closely at this tweeter you'll see ribs around the perimeter, which indicate to me that the designer intended a press fit. That size hole is really too small to make with a router and circle jig. I used a 1-5/16" hole saw, just because I already had one. This makes a hole that's just a bit too big. When I built the Overnight Sensations I simply glued them in place, but I don't recall what I used for an adhesive, probably some bathroom caulk that I had lying around.

For this build, after boring the 1-5/16" hole, I smeared some bondo around the inside of the hole. After it hardened I filed it smooth until I got a nice tight fit. I'll probably still use some kind of a sealant, maybe some putty of some kind, so that I can pop the tweeters back out if I ever have to replace one.

Measuring with my calipers, it looks like maybe a 3.25 cm hole was the designer's intent, which is equal to about 1-9/32". This is the size of the hole I have now, and I've got a nice snug fit.

[ericJ]

Re: on Sale - $55/pr (drivers & XO)

I used a 1.25" hole saw for the ND20, which made an opening that was a touch too small. Used sandpaper rolled into a tube, stuck into the hole and went around and around until I was able to slip the tweet in nice and tight; tight enough that no adhesive should be needed. While rounding over the rear of the woofer cutout, I did the tweet hole as well The terminals were pretty far up in the cutout and tight to the edge. Figured it couldn't hurt.

[Chris Roemer]

Re: on Sale - $55/pr (drivers & XO)

I used a 1.25" hole saw for the ND20, which made an opening that was a touch to small. Used sandpaper rolled into a tube, stuck into the hole and went around and around until I was able to slip the tweet in nice and tight; tight enough that no adhesive should be needed. While rounding over the rear of the woofer cutout, I did the tweet hole as well The terminals were pretty far up in the cutout and tight to the edge. Figured it couldn't hurt.

This probably came out of my 2nd (if not the original) post, introducing the Nano Neos.

" I used a scroll saw for the tiny 3-5/8" woofer hole, and circle hole saws for the even smaller tweeter (1-1/4" circle hole saw), the port tube (1-5/8"), and the "dreaded" spring terminals (2"). "

I just used the supplied gaskets on the terminals and on the woofer - and don't overtighten their mounting screws, or you can warp the frame. My paper port tube was glued in with Titebond (I'd use 2pt 5min epoxy if they were PCV). With MY hole, the little ribs made a fairly snug fit w/out any sealant around the little tweeters, but I ran a very small bead of RTV silicone around the tweeter anyway.

[Drew_V]

Re: on Sale - $55/pr (drivers & XO)

From what I understand, the acetic acid vapors (released as the silicone cures) tend to deteriorate the woofer surrounds, so I'm hesitant to use silicone anywhere in the cabinet. Then again, a small amount on the outer flange of the tweeter might be okay.

Anyways, a press fit should be sufficient. I have no problem with that.

[MLS]

Re: on Sale - $55/pr (drivers & XO)

I used a circle jig for the drivers and the port. I routed the exact diameter that the tweeter called for and used a (wait for it) dead blow hammer to seat it into place.

For the port I routed a 1/16 larger than the out side diameter PVC pipe I used and @ 1/2 deep. I then used hot glue to secure the PVC pipe and the drilled a hole from the outside and then used a flush cut router bit to route it out to the inside diameter of the PVC pipe and then used a round over bit for the flare.

As a side note I am getting a resonate ringing sound from the side of the cabinet at a just above moderate listening volume. This is with 3/4" MDF and a brace in the middle side to side made out of 3/4" MDF. I also have 1" poly fill sheet lining the interior of the cabinet.

Any thoughts?

MLS

[Herman Trivilino]

Re: on Sale - $55/pr (drivers & XO)

I used a circle jig for the drivers and the port. I routed the exact diameter that the tweeter called for and used a (wait for it) dead blow hammer to seat it into place.

For the port I routed a 1/16 larger than the out side diameter PVC pipe I used and @ 1/2 deep. I then used hot glue to secure the PVC pipe and the drilled a hole from the outside and then used a flush cut router bit to route it out to the inside diameter of the PVC pipe and then used a round over bit for the flare.

As a side note I am getting a resonate ringing sound from the side of the cabinet at a just above moderate listening volume. This is with 3/4" MDF and a brace in the middle side to side made out of 3/4" MDF. I also have 1" poly fill sheet lining the interior of the cabinet.

What diameter was "called for" for the tweeter?

Did you have any chip-out of the PVC pipe when you were rounding it over, or did the router not cut deep enough to reach the PVC?

As for the resonance, I'd say add another brace, if you can. I think I may put two in mine.

[Chris Roemer]

Re: on Sale - $55/pr (drivers & XO)

What diameter was "called for" for the tweeter?

Did you have any chip-out of the PVC pipe when you were rounding it over, or did the router not cut deep enough to reach the PVC?

As for the resonance, I'd say add another brace, if you can. I think I may put two in mine.

The Nano Neos only need 1 horizontal brace, if that. The ntns could probably use 2 or 3 horizontal braces. Also, one builder thought that the voice coil leads were bent in such a way that they could slap against the cone under heavy excursion.

You don't think any sound could be coming from the vent (is it front ported)?

Chris

[DIYNut42]

Re: on Sale - $55/pr (drivers & XO)

Seems like everyone is finishing these up.

I wish I was farther on mine. Got the front baffles, and backs cut and finished, x-overs done, and other little odds and ends. Stuff just keeps coming up though.

Also I thought about using a hole saw for the tweeter, but instead I got out the ole calipers, and did my handy dremel trick for a nice press-fit hole for it.

[Drew_V]

Re: on Sale - $55/pr (drivers & XO)

I wish I was farther on mine. Got the front baffles, and backs cut and finished, x-overs done, and other little odds and ends. Stuff just keeps coming up though.

Also I thought about using a hole saw for the tweeter, but instead I got out the ole calipers, and did my handy dremel trick for a nice press-fit hole for it.

What "Dremel trick" are you referring to? It's a pretty small hole and I don't have a saw for it myself, so I was just going to use the router. But it's an awfully small hole...

[fastbike1]

Re: on Sale - $55/pr (drivers & XO)

The flange of the ND20 is 45mm. A Fortner bit works very well.

What diameter was "called for" for the tweeter?

Did you have any chip-out of the PVC pipe when you were rounding it over, or did the router not cut deep enough to reach the PVC?

As for the resonance, I'd say add another brace, if you can. I think I may put two in mine.

[XtremeRevolution]

Re: on Sale - $55/pr (drivers & XO)

I screwed the holes up for my tweeters. One is just the right size and snugly fits in, but one is too large by about 1cm. I'll end up sealing it with some silicone most likely.

Good to know there are other ways to do it. I'll likely be building a second pair of these so I'll know what to do better the next time around.

[MLS]

Re: on Sale - $55/pr (drivers & XO)

What diameter was "called for" for the tweeter?


1-5/16" cut out for the tweeter according to the Parts Express catalog.

Did you have any chip-out of the PVC pipe when you were rounding it over, or did the router not cut deep enough to reach the PVC?

The round over does not go that deep at least on mine it did not.

As for the resonance, I'd say add another brace, if you can. I think I may put two in mine.

It would probably be impossible to add a brace at this point.

[MLS]

Re: on Sale - $55/pr (drivers & XO)

The Nano Neos only need 1 horizontal brace, if that. The ntns could probably use 2 or 3 horizontal braces. Also, one builder thought that the voice coil leads were bent in such a way that they could slap against the cone under heavy excursion.

You don't think any sound could be coming from the vent (is it front ported)?

Chris

It is not the port. It is actually a mid frequency ringing sound if you put your ear up next to the side of the cabinet during slightly elevated listening.

I will check the voice coil leads. It seems to be just one of my speakers doing this at this point. The woofer moves a bit but it does not look like to much and my amp has a good grip on the bass which helps in this situation.

MLS

[lostboy77]

Re: on Sale - $55/pr (drivers & XO)

It would probably be impossible to add a brace at this point.

Try this . . . take a large drill bit and put a hold through both sides of the enclosure in one pass, then slide a carriage bolt through the enclosure and tighten it (not too much mind you). If you can find a way to counter sink the bolt and nut end then fill with wood filler and sand/finish flat, my guess is that one one would be able to tell.

[lostboy77]

Re: on Sale - $55/pr (drivers & XO)

It is not the port. It is actually a mid frequency ringing sound if you put your ear up next to the side of the cabinet during slightly elevated listening.

I will check the voice coil leads. It seems to be just one of my speakers doing this at this point. The woofer moves a bit but it does not look like to much and my amp has a good grip on the bass which helps in this situation.

MLS

This sounds more like a pressure node to me. Try sticking a large handful of polyfill in the bottom of your enclosure and doubling up your dampening on the top. This may fix your issue. From what I've heard, this can be a problem with tall skinny enclosures.