on Sale - $55/pr (drivers & XO)

[XtremeRevolution]

Re: on Sale - $55/pr (drivers & XO)

The start off sounding strained and cold and something sounds "wrong" with the bass, it's not that its missing, just sounds a little off. The exact opposite (smooth, warm, and full) after break in. The most noticeable difference is the bass really fills in after a while.

Has anyone taken any measurements of "out of the box" speakers and ones that have been used for several hours or after the duration of the break in period to quantify a measurable difference?

[DIYNut42]

Re: on Sale - $55/pr (drivers & XO)

What "Dremel trick" are you referring to? It's a pretty small hole and I don't have a saw for it myself, so I was just going to use the router. But it's an awfully small hole...

Sorry, I was away from a computer for a few days. I have a circle jig for my dremel. If I ever have a small hole to cut where the tollerance is important, I use my calipers to measure whatever is going in the hole. I take that measurment, divide it in half, and add .0625 for the radius of the spike in the jig. I lock my calipers to that measurment, then set my dremel to that. Use a 1/4" cutter bit in your dremel. I just set the bit and spike in the calipers mouth and tighten down the nut on the jig.

Then I cut down about a quarter inch, or just enough for the bearing of a flush trim bit to set on. Even at 1/4", I make a few passes so the dremel doesnt bite into the MDF since the RPM's arent that fast. Using a jig saw, I cut the slug out of the hole by running the blade in the 1/4" wide circle I've made, then clean it up with a router and flush trim bit.

I actually plan on posting a thread with pics about this trick. It works well if you take your time. You can get a very high tollerance spec hole, especially using MDF since it's so fine grained.

It worked very well for the tweet hole on my Neo baffles. Its tight enough in there that it wont come out, but at the same time, it can be pushed out if needed with a lil force behind it.

[lostboy77]

Re: on Sale - $55/pr (drivers & XO)

Can anyone comment on how much of a difference the break-in process for these drivers make? Basically, what will the difference be from when you first use them to after you've used them for 12 or so hours.

The start off sounding strained and cold and something sounds "wrong" with the bass, it's not that its missing, just sounds a little off. The exact opposite (smooth, warm, and full) after break in. The most noticeable difference is the bass really fills in after a while.

[XtremeRevolution]

Re: on Sale - $55/pr (drivers & XO)

Can anyone comment on how much of a difference the break-in process for these drivers make? Basically, what will the difference be from when you first use them to after you've used them for 12 or so hours.

[patrickm]

Re: Just wonderin' . . .

Here's a list of members who I THINK have built one of these ND105-4 designs. If you're not on the list, please add your name.

7 ntn:
hyperlite
cooper
django
patrickm

realized i never posted photos. mine should actually be moved to the regular neo category, but i built a floorstanding tower version. here they are next to my main system and a pair of jamo buyout MTM TL's i also built as christmas gifts. both were very well received. built from home depot pine shelving, with minwax polyshades light oak stain. (for anyone interested, jamo's are pecan stain, mine are cherry) :

[cwad8505]

Re: on Sale - $55/pr (drivers & XO)

Went to Lowes and the got the MDF this afternoon and got started.. first off, MDF went up $6 in the last 2 days!!! Was $25, Now $31..anywho.. Couple mistakes, cuz I was in a hurry like usual! First off, when drilling the mounting holes for the drivers, used the bit for the #10 Hurricane nut, so the #8 Hurricane nut's helicals are doing absolutely no good whatsoever..I'll pray that the gorilla glue holds them well enough.. secondly, got my port marked out on the back correctly.. got a phone call, went back to it...only to finish it out for the terminal cup..WTH is wrong with me??!!!..so I'm now faced with the dilemma of putting it below the T cup, where the speaker wires will have to lay over the opening causing a potential for noise, or go above it, putting it within about 2 1/2 inches of the lower driver. I think I'll end up going above it..should be OK..(maybe one of the pros could chime in here..) Well, have 1 box done all but glueing the baffle on and routing edges.. I suppose I will finish these tomorrow night and ship them off for paint.. Sure hope I can pull my head out of my buttox before working on them tomorrow!!

[fastbike1]

Re: My ntn backs

My bad. I forgot that you had windowed the front. :o

I want the crossover to be visible through the window on the front of the cabinet. These will be in a classroom/lab and I want the students to be able to see the circuit elements. It's a nifty application of the use of resistors, capacitors, and inductors.

[cwad8505]

Re: on Sale - $55/pr (drivers & XO)

Yup, 4" down to center.

The ports TOTAL length should be 7". With a 3/4" thick back(/front), it then only extends 6-1/4" into the cab.

I screwed up my description of what I was asking..talking about the baffle.. and the back at the same time.. but you thankfully knew what I was trying to ask and thanks for the info sir! Chris

[Chris Roemer]

Re: on Sale - $55/pr (drivers & XO)

Wouldn't that just take all of the fun (misery) out of it??!! lol.. I have a plan.. and I believe it will be the most "visually" loud set built yet..
Chris..btw.. on the NTN, didn't u mention to start the top driver's center 4" down from the top (then continue with original spacing)? Also, with regards to the port, where the does the length actually start... from inside the baffle..or from the front of the baffle.. in other words, if I wanted to do a pvc port 7" long, flushed with the back, should it be 7 or 7 3/4? I know the port issue has been covered over and over, but this part still confuses me (doesn't take much!) Thanks.. the other Chris

Yup, 4" down to center.

The ports TOTAL length should be 7". With a 3/4" thick back(/front), it then only extends 6-1/4" into the cab.

[XtremeRevolution]

Re: on Sale - $55/pr (drivers & XO)

Getting closer...



That's 2 coats of base coat in. Another 3-4 coats, then 5-6 coats of clear coat, then a buffing.

[Herman Trivilino]

Re: My ntn backs

The crossover looks like it could have moved to the back without too much trouble.

I want the crossover to be visible through the window on the front of the cabinet. These will be in a classroom/lab and I want the students to be able to see the circuit elements. It's a nifty application of the use of resistors, capacitors, and inductors.

[cwad8505]

Re: on Sale - $55/pr (drivers & XO)

The other Chris..that finish sounds hot. You doing that funky color change paint that was on all the cars a few years ago?!

I think they call that Harlequinn?.. actually looked that over at PPG today..not what I went with. Doing my drawings tonight and now realize why everyone's doing the NTN as a tower..wasn't until I put it to paper that I realized how tall it already is.. think I'm gonna stick with 28" tall and build an optional base depending on where they sit... Def post pix of that veneer job when you get done! Chris

[ericJ]

Re: on Sale - $55/pr (drivers & XO)

Mr. FedEX left me a gift today for my build. A 2x8 sheet of maple veneer from formwood. NLB. Standard grain, nothing too cool. Closeout price of $15 and some cents. $34 shipped.

Plans are to veneer top, bottom and sides. Flat black baffle and rear. I have maple cabinets and some stain to match, so these will be in that realm.

The other Chris..that finish sounds hot. You doing that funky color change paint that was on all the cars a few years ago?!

[cwad8505]

Re: on Sale - $55/pr (drivers & XO)

They'd work pretty dang well in some of PE's 0.5 cf curved cabinets. ;-)

Wouldn't that just take all of the fun (misery) out of it??!! lol.. I have a plan.. and I believe it will be the most "visually" loud set built yet..
Chris..btw.. on the NTN, didn't u mention to start the top driver's center 4" down from the top (then continue with original spacing)? Also, with regards to the port, where the does the length actually start... from inside the baffle..or from the front of the baffle.. in other words, if I wanted to do a pvc port 7" long, flushed with the back, should it be 7 or 7 3/4? I know the port issue has been covered over and over, but this part still confuses me (doesn't take much!) Thanks.. the other Chris

[GregKramer]

Re: on Sale - $55/pr (drivers & XO)

I just finished a pair of the towers for my brother. 6" x 9.25" x 40" with a 5/8" roundover.
About .74 cubic ft. I have a small compartment in the bottom filled with deconstructed granite to lower the center of gravity. I was rushed on this project and just rolled on the paint with a 4" foam roller. It actually turned out well. 4 coats of primer and 3 paint.
They sound very nice. Thanks for the design.
BTW my Khanspires are behind it.
Greg