on Sale - $55/pr (drivers & XO)

[Chris Roemer]

Re: on Sale - $55/pr (drivers & XO)

BTW... Have there been any NTN photos posted yet that weren't in a "tower" format?? I don't believe I've seen any (not that the towers designs aren't awesome..cuz they iz...).. Thanks, Chris

They'd work pretty dang well in some of PE's 0.5 cf curved cabinets. ;-)

[cwad8505]

Re: on Sale - $55/pr (drivers & XO)

BTW... Have there been any NTN photos posted yet that weren't in a "tower" format?? I don't believe I've seen any (not that the towers designs aren't awesome..cuz they iz...).. Thanks, Chris

[cwad8505]

Re: on Sale - $55/pr (drivers & XO)

Well ... finally got around to ordering the change of/additional components for the NTN build today. All I know for now is the bottom will be removable, XO mounted to that piece. Also, bought my paint at PPG today...don't want to spoil the surprise, but the color is eye-catching to say the least!!:eek: . Hope to get the boxes done this weekend and to the body shop toward the beginning of next week (buddy is going to paint these with automotive finish). These "should" be darn near a mirror finish with the process he describes. I'll def post pix of the finished product and details if anyone wants them. I'm not yet sure if I will build stands or not, I will most likely put these on the dresser in the bedroom and move the ONS to the computer area (sorry Paul...moved, not forgotten!!~..lol). Wish me luck! Chris

[fastbike1]

Re: My ntn backs

For your next build, the crossover could be mounted on the bottom, or on the back behind the drivers or on the back lower. The terminals could easily be mounted higher. Lots of options where to mount things. Bottom line is that the port location is a compromise that didn't need to be made. The crossover looks like it could have moved to the back without too much trouble.

I just checked, and you're right, it is centered! That's really the only place I can put it if I want it in the back. If you look at the third photo (in Post #346) you can see that if I lowered it to spec it would be too close to the xover board. I was debating putting it in the bottom, but it's too late now.

[ericJ]

Re: My ntn backs

I did the same thing, except I used gorilla glue. They came out nice. Here are some pics of today's work.

It's looking nice, sir. On my PVC port, I just used (gasp!) Titebond II. I used a step down method with two hole saw sizes to make a recess on the inside of the rear panel. Scuffed up the PVC really good, smeared a lot of TitebondII around it, and inside the recess, inserted port in recess, clamped and let sit for a day. I tested this on scrap MDF with a small scrap of PVC to determine how well it would hold. I'm satisfied with the adhesion. If it falls out, I'll repent and eat my words, haha. I forgot to pick up the 5 min epoxy while I was at the store so I just went with what I had.

[Herman Trivilino]

Re: My ntn backs

I like to have a vent NOT centered on the box height.

I just checked, and you're right, it is centered! That's really the only place I can put it if I want it in the back. If you look at the third photo (in Post #346) you can see that if I lowered it to spec it would be too close to the xover board. I was debating putting it in the bottom, but it's too late now.

[Chris Roemer]

Re: My ntn backs

I did the same thing, except I used gorilla glue. They came out nice. Here are some pics of today's work.

Nice port installation, but (I wouldn't worry about this, it's just info for your future projects) I like to have a vent NOT centered on the box height. It's usually better to stagger distances in speaker design work, especially trying to avoid "harmonic" dimensions, like 1/2, 1/4, etc.

That's one reason why tweeters are often horizontally offset off the center of a baffle, to give unequal distances from the tweeter to the adjacent baffle edges (where diffraction occurs). For vents, I like to have them 1/3 up (or down) from one end, or 2/5ths or 3/5ths, or 2/7ths, etc. (I think you get the idea). Most people will even stagger the positioning of internal braces, just to avoid reinforcing any certain resonance frequency.

Chris

[lostboy77]

Re: on Sale - $55/pr (drivers & XO)

Not a bad idea, but why not drill a 5/8" or 3/4" hole (through both sides) and epoxy a hard wood dowel through there. All wood.

Chris

Sometimes I over think things. Your way (of course) is simpler, cleaner, and easier to cover up. If fact, I believe that this may be a simpler method and easier to implement method than installing and securing a internal block brace.

[Chris Roemer]

Re: on Sale - $55/pr (drivers & XO)

Try this . . . take a large drill bit and put a hold through both sides of the enclosure in one pass, then slide a carriage bolt through the enclosure and tighten it (not too much mind you). If you can find a way to counter sink the bolt and nut end then fill with wood filler and sand/finish flat, my guess is that one one would be able to tell.

Not a bad idea, but why not drill a 5/8" or 3/4" hole (through both sides) and epoxy a hard wood dowel through there. All wood.

Chris

[Herman Trivilino]

My ntn backs

For the port I routed a 1/16 larger than the out side diameter PVC pipe I used and @ 1/2 deep. I then used hot glue to secure the PVC pipe and the drilled a hole from the outside and then used a flush cut router bit to route it out to the inside diameter of the PVC pipe and then used a round over bit for the flare.

I did the same thing, except I used gorilla glue. They came out nice. Here are some pics of today's work.

[lostboy77]

Re: on Sale - $55/pr (drivers & XO)

It is not the port. It is actually a mid frequency ringing sound if you put your ear up next to the side of the cabinet during slightly elevated listening.

I will check the voice coil leads. It seems to be just one of my speakers doing this at this point. The woofer moves a bit but it does not look like to much and my amp has a good grip on the bass which helps in this situation.

MLS

This sounds more like a pressure node to me. Try sticking a large handful of polyfill in the bottom of your enclosure and doubling up your dampening on the top. This may fix your issue. From what I've heard, this can be a problem with tall skinny enclosures.

[lostboy77]

Re: on Sale - $55/pr (drivers & XO)

It would probably be impossible to add a brace at this point.

Try this . . . take a large drill bit and put a hold through both sides of the enclosure in one pass, then slide a carriage bolt through the enclosure and tighten it (not too much mind you). If you can find a way to counter sink the bolt and nut end then fill with wood filler and sand/finish flat, my guess is that one one would be able to tell.

[MLS]

Re: on Sale - $55/pr (drivers & XO)

The Nano Neos only need 1 horizontal brace, if that. The ntns could probably use 2 or 3 horizontal braces. Also, one builder thought that the voice coil leads were bent in such a way that they could slap against the cone under heavy excursion.

You don't think any sound could be coming from the vent (is it front ported)?

Chris

It is not the port. It is actually a mid frequency ringing sound if you put your ear up next to the side of the cabinet during slightly elevated listening.

I will check the voice coil leads. It seems to be just one of my speakers doing this at this point. The woofer moves a bit but it does not look like to much and my amp has a good grip on the bass which helps in this situation.

MLS

[MLS]

Re: on Sale - $55/pr (drivers & XO)

What diameter was "called for" for the tweeter?


1-5/16" cut out for the tweeter according to the Parts Express catalog.

Did you have any chip-out of the PVC pipe when you were rounding it over, or did the router not cut deep enough to reach the PVC?

The round over does not go that deep at least on mine it did not.

As for the resonance, I'd say add another brace, if you can. I think I may put two in mine.

It would probably be impossible to add a brace at this point.

[XtremeRevolution]

Re: on Sale - $55/pr (drivers & XO)

I screwed the holes up for my tweeters. One is just the right size and snugly fits in, but one is too large by about 1cm. I'll end up sealing it with some silicone most likely.

Good to know there are other ways to do it. I'll likely be building a second pair of these so I'll know what to do better the next time around.