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on Sale - $55/pr (drivers & XO)

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  • fastbike1
    replied
    Re: on Sale - $55/pr (drivers & XO)

    The flange of the ND20 is 45mm. A Fortner bit works very well.

    Originally posted by Herman Trivilino View Post
    What diameter was "called for" for the tweeter?

    Did you have any chip-out of the PVC pipe when you were rounding it over, or did the router not cut deep enough to reach the PVC?

    As for the resonance, I'd say add another brace, if you can. I think I may put two in mine.

    Leave a comment:


  • Drew_V
    replied
    Re: on Sale - $55/pr (drivers & XO)

    Originally posted by DIYNut42 View Post
    I wish I was farther on mine. Got the front baffles, and backs cut and finished, x-overs done, and other little odds and ends. Stuff just keeps coming up though.

    Also I thought about using a hole saw for the tweeter, but instead I got out the ole calipers, and did my handy dremel trick for a nice press-fit hole for it.

    What "Dremel trick" are you referring to? It's a pretty small hole and I don't have a saw for it myself, so I was just going to use the router. But it's an awfully small hole...

    Leave a comment:


  • DIYNut42
    replied
    Re: on Sale - $55/pr (drivers & XO)

    Originally posted by ericJ View Post
    Seems like everyone is finishing these up.
    I wish I was farther on mine. Got the front baffles, and backs cut and finished, x-overs done, and other little odds and ends. Stuff just keeps coming up though.

    Also I thought about using a hole saw for the tweeter, but instead I got out the ole calipers, and did my handy dremel trick for a nice press-fit hole for it.

    Leave a comment:


  • Chris Roemer
    replied
    Re: on Sale - $55/pr (drivers & XO)

    Originally posted by Herman Trivilino View Post
    What diameter was "called for" for the tweeter?

    Did you have any chip-out of the PVC pipe when you were rounding it over, or did the router not cut deep enough to reach the PVC?

    As for the resonance, I'd say add another brace, if you can. I think I may put two in mine.
    The Nano Neos only need 1 horizontal brace, if that. The ntns could probably use 2 or 3 horizontal braces. Also, one builder thought that the voice coil leads were bent in such a way that they could slap against the cone under heavy excursion.

    You don't think any sound could be coming from the vent (is it front ported)?

    Chris

    Leave a comment:


  • Herman Trivilino
    replied
    Re: on Sale - $55/pr (drivers & XO)

    Originally posted by MLS View Post
    I used a circle jig for the drivers and the port. I routed the exact diameter that the tweeter called for and used a (wait for it) dead blow hammer to seat it into place.

    For the port I routed a 1/16 larger than the out side diameter PVC pipe I used and @ 1/2 deep. I then used hot glue to secure the PVC pipe and the drilled a hole from the outside and then used a flush cut router bit to route it out to the inside diameter of the PVC pipe and then used a round over bit for the flare.

    As a side note I am getting a resonate ringing sound from the side of the cabinet at a just above moderate listening volume. This is with 3/4" MDF and a brace in the middle side to side made out of 3/4" MDF. I also have 1" poly fill sheet lining the interior of the cabinet.
    What diameter was "called for" for the tweeter?

    Did you have any chip-out of the PVC pipe when you were rounding it over, or did the router not cut deep enough to reach the PVC?

    As for the resonance, I'd say add another brace, if you can. I think I may put two in mine.

    Leave a comment:


  • MLS
    replied
    Re: on Sale - $55/pr (drivers & XO)

    I used a circle jig for the drivers and the port. I routed the exact diameter that the tweeter called for and used a (wait for it) dead blow hammer to seat it into place.

    For the port I routed a 1/16 larger than the out side diameter PVC pipe I used and @ 1/2 deep. I then used hot glue to secure the PVC pipe and the drilled a hole from the outside and then used a flush cut router bit to route it out to the inside diameter of the PVC pipe and then used a round over bit for the flare.

    As a side note I am getting a resonate ringing sound from the side of the cabinet at a just above moderate listening volume. This is with 3/4" MDF and a brace in the middle side to side made out of 3/4" MDF. I also have 1" poly fill sheet lining the interior of the cabinet.

    Any thoughts?

    MLS

    Leave a comment:


  • Drew_V
    replied
    Re: on Sale - $55/pr (drivers & XO)

    From what I understand, the acetic acid vapors (released as the silicone cures) tend to deteriorate the woofer surrounds, so I'm hesitant to use silicone anywhere in the cabinet. Then again, a small amount on the outer flange of the tweeter might be okay.

    Anyways, a press fit should be sufficient. I have no problem with that.

    Leave a comment:


  • Chris Roemer
    replied
    Re: on Sale - $55/pr (drivers & XO)

    Originally posted by ericJ View Post
    I used a 1.25" hole saw for the ND20, which made an opening that was a touch to small. Used sandpaper rolled into a tube, stuck into the hole and went around and around until I was able to slip the tweet in nice and tight; tight enough that no adhesive should be needed. While rounding over the rear of the woofer cutout, I did the tweet hole as well The terminals were pretty far up in the cutout and tight to the edge. Figured it couldn't hurt.
    This probably came out of my 2nd (if not the original) post, introducing the Nano Neos.

    " I used a scroll saw for the tiny 3-5/8" woofer hole, and circle hole saws for the even smaller tweeter (1-1/4" circle hole saw), the port tube (1-5/8"), and the "dreaded" spring terminals (2"). "

    I just used the supplied gaskets on the terminals and on the woofer - and don't overtighten their mounting screws, or you can warp the frame. My paper port tube was glued in with Titebond (I'd use 2pt 5min epoxy if they were PCV). With MY hole, the little ribs made a fairly snug fit w/out any sealant around the little tweeters, but I ran a very small bead of RTV silicone around the tweeter anyway.

    Leave a comment:


  • ericJ
    replied
    Re: on Sale - $55/pr (drivers & XO)

    I used a 1.25" hole saw for the ND20, which made an opening that was a touch too small. Used sandpaper rolled into a tube, stuck into the hole and went around and around until I was able to slip the tweet in nice and tight; tight enough that no adhesive should be needed. While rounding over the rear of the woofer cutout, I did the tweet hole as well The terminals were pretty far up in the cutout and tight to the edge. Figured it couldn't hurt.
    Last edited by ericJ; 03-13-2011, 05:05 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • Herman Trivilino
    replied
    Re: on Sale - $55/pr (drivers & XO)

    When I was building Paul Carmody's Overnight Sensation I learned the trick of chamfering the tweeter hole from Bill Schneider's posts.

    If you look closely at this tweeter you'll see ribs around the perimeter, which indicate to me that the designer intended a press fit. That size hole is really too small to make with a router and circle jig. I used a 1-5/16" hole saw, just because I already had one. This makes a hole that's just a bit too big. When I built the Overnight Sensations I simply glued them in place, but I don't recall what I used for an adhesive, probably some bathroom caulk that I had lying around.

    For this build, after boring the 1-5/16" hole, I smeared some bondo around the inside of the hole. After it hardened I filed it smooth until I got a nice tight fit. I'll probably still use some kind of a sealant, maybe some putty of some kind, so that I can pop the tweeters back out if I ever have to replace one.

    Measuring with my calipers, it looks like maybe a 3.25 cm hole was the designer's intent, which is equal to about 1-9/32". This is the size of the hole I have now, and I've got a nice snug fit.

    Leave a comment:


  • Drew_V
    replied
    Re: on Sale - $55/pr (drivers & XO)

    How are you guys mounting the tweeters? Just press fit?

    I hesitate to use any sort of glue, since it might make it impossible to remove them.

    Leave a comment:


  • RINNAV
    replied
    Re: My ntn baffles

    Originally posted by Herman Trivilino View Post
    The reason for chamfering the tweeter hole is to allow access to the terminals. If, for some reason, I had to disconnect the tweeter, without the chamfer it'd be hard or impossible to reconnect it.

    The circuit board is painted!

    I did think about some battery-powered led's ... I dunno though ...

    Oh, Ok I see, that makes sense--the ND20 can be a bit cumbersome for big fingers and little terminals. I couldn't tell the board was painted in the pic. It might of been the projective, I mean protective film.;) In any event, very well done!

    Leave a comment:


  • Herman Trivilino
    replied
    Re: My ntn baffles

    Originally posted by RINNAV View Post
    Is there a reason you chamfered the back of the ND20 hole? I do like the plexi cover for the XO! Do you plan on painting or staining the circuit board, adding some accent lights?
    The reason for chamfering the tweeter hole is to allow access to the terminals. If, for some reason, I had to disconnect the tweeter, without the chamfer it'd be hard or impossible to reconnect it.

    The circuit board is painted!

    I did think about some battery-powered led's ... I dunno though ...

    Leave a comment:


  • RINNAV
    replied
    Re: My ntn baffles

    Originally posted by Herman Trivilino View Post
    Here's a shot of the baffles for my ntn's. The plexiglass still has the protective film on it.
    Is there a reason you chamfered the back of the ND20 hole? I do like the plexi cover for the XO! Do you plan on painting or staining the circuit board, adding some accent lights?

    Jason

    Leave a comment:


  • Herman Trivilino
    replied
    My ntn baffles

    Here's a shot of the baffles for my ntn's. The plexiglass still has the protective film on it.
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:

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