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on Sale - $55/pr (drivers & XO)

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  • Re: on Sale - $55/pr (drivers & XO)

    Originally posted by Herman Trivilino View Post
    Is this the part you bought?



    I played with the manufacturer's on-line calculator (see first PE customer review) and it appears that a 7-inch straight port is equivalent to their flared port tube cut to an overall length of 8 inches.

    I don't think it's critical, though.


    Still doesn't help me with my situation and yes that is what I bought.

    All I know is I got 7" streight tube and then about another 3" that is included by the flairs and this is the straight part of it and not the flared bit.

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    • Re: on Sale - $55/pr (drivers & XO)

      Originally posted by nick650 View Post


      Still doesn't help me with my situation and yes that is what I bought.

      All I know is I got 7" streight tube and then about another 3" that is included by the flairs and this is the straight part of it and not the flared bit.
      8" when the port is assembled with flares from end to end. This is due to the flared portion not actually counting as the length of the port. Assemble it as it is from PE, measure the length from end to end, then cut off of the tube whatever you need to to get to 8" total length, then glue it up and you're off to the races. Also, don't get too hung up on it having to be "exactly 8", if it's off a 1/4" or even a 1/2", its not the end of the world, will only change a couple Hz either way. Hope this helps, Chris

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      • Re: on Sale - $55/pr (drivers & XO)

        Originally posted by nick650 View Post


        Still doesn't help me with my situation and yes that is what I bought.

        All I know is I got 7" streight tube and then about another 3" that is included by the flairs and this is the straight part of it and not the flared bit.
        According to the description it has, when assembled, a maximum length of 11 inches. Assuming what I said in my previous post is correct, you would make it three inches shorter, so that the overall length is 8 inches.

        The description states that the "central tube can be cut to any desired length". So, cut three inches off of it!

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        • Re: on Sale - $55/pr (drivers & XO)

          THANK YOU very much you 2! I appreciate it! Of to figure my dimensions and get this sucker built!

          I will make my box with a depth of 9 to fit it.

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          • Re: on Sale - $55/pr (drivers & XO)

            Originally posted by nick650 View Post
            THANK YOU very much you 2! I appreciate it! Of to figure my dimensions and get this sucker built!

            I will make my box with a depth of 9 to fit it.
            With regards to depth, I would make sure you have at least 2" of clearance between the flare and the wall. You would typically give urself at least as much clearance as is your port diameter. If I assume that your double flared port will be a total of 8" and you are using 3/4" material, then your port will extend into your enclosure 7 1/4", in which case, I'd make sure to have at least 9 1/4" of internal depth.
            Edit: Don't forget dampening material! If you are using some sort of dampening material, make sure to have clearance from that as well, which I assume will push your depth back a couple more inches.
            Chris

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            • Re: on Sale - $55/pr (drivers & XO)

              DOUGH! You are right! I just sent of the document to be looked at to get it built for me.... RRRR....

              Thanks

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              • Re: on Sale - $55/pr (drivers & XO)

                Originally posted by cwad8505 View Post
                With regards to depth, I would make sure you have at least 2" of clearance between the flare and the wall. You would typically give urself at least as much clearance as is your port diameter. If I assume that your double flared port will be a total of 8" and you are using 3/4" material, then your port will extend into your enclosure 7 1/4", in which case, I'd make sure to have at least 9 1/4" of internal depth.
                Edit: Don't forget dampening material! If you are using some sort of dampening material, make sure to have clearance from that as well, which I assume will push your depth back a couple more inches.
                Chris
                It wouldn't bother me to have only 1.5" of clearance between the internal end of that port and the inside of the cab. If the fit is tight, don't put any foam lining directly off the end of the port, so it can still breathe.

                Chris

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                • Re: on Sale - $55/pr (drivers & XO)

                  My 2" ID port is only 1.5" from the back wall and even at xmax, I can not detect any audible port noise. I don't have any dampening material by the port though. And the port is about 45" from the drivers
                  https://www.facebook.com/Mosaic-Audi...7373763888294/

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                  • Re: on Sale - $55/pr (drivers & XO)

                    Dimensions: 22 x 8 x 9

                    I made it so I have 1.5 baffle and 1.5 for the back, so technically I now have 2" for the port from the wall. I also am getting it CNC'D for a very good price. I decided 2" from the top will be the first woofer and then tweeter then woofer. Back side will have the speaker post low as possible and then 1" above it will have the port. ALL things being mounted will be recessed and flush mounted. I will also have a vertical brace and behind the speaker the mounts will be rounded over. I should get all this by next week. Then I got to paint it sometime down the line as well.

                    Thank you all for your help!

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                    • Re: on Sale - $55/pr (drivers & XO)

                      1.5" baffle?? WOW.. that's thick! Be sure to get the back chamfered well so those ND's can breathe.
                      Also, quick update on my ntn's.. well, same story.. still haven't got them back from buddy...he says maybe tomorrow. Killin me.. just killin me. On a lighter note, BAMTM's are almost complete..start finish coats tomorrow!
                      Chris W.

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                      • Re: on Sale - $55/pr (drivers & XO)

                        Originally posted by cwad8505 View Post
                        1.5" baffle?? WOW.. that's thick! Be sure to get the back chamfered well so those ND's can breathe.
                        Also, quick update on my ntn's.. well, same story.. still haven't got them back from buddy...he says maybe tomorrow. Killin me.. just killin me. On a lighter note, BAMTM's are almost complete..start finish coats tomorrow!
                        Chris W.
                        X2 on this. The ND105's need a lot of room to breathe and a chamfered rear end will be necessary, not optional. 45 degrees is recommended.
                        Modding the Lepai T-Amp

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                        • Re: on Sale - $55/pr (drivers & XO)

                          Done.

                          Veneer is flat cut maple finished with danish oil. It's just wiped on with a rag. I like it. If you look at the rear picture, you can see that one has the grain going up down, the other is left right. That is a mistake on my part but no one will see the rear, right?!

                          Baffle was treated with 50/50 glue water mix, then sanded, primed with rolled on latex kilz for a textured look then sprayed with Krylon flat black (about three coats).

                          For the port, I ended up rounding over into the veneer (basically going back down to mdf, then masking and painting flat black. You can see where the line isn't perfect but I'm good with it.

                          Still need to install the terminals. They are just plain jane round push terminals from the closeouts @ PE.

                          Thanks Chris Roemer for the design. I'm officially hooked and will bust out a new project in the coming months.
                          Attached Files

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                          • Re: on Sale - $55/pr (drivers & XO)

                            ^^^^^ WOW, those look VERY nice! I see what your saying about the grain issue :D , nothing to worry about. Wish mine will look as good...

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                            • Re: on Sale - $55/pr (drivers & XO)

                              I had 7 audio nuts over to my house last night. As I posted earlier, my living room rig was a very budget minded rig set up featuring the Nano Neo's. The Nano's bass was very strong (tone controls set flat on my little Nikko integrated) and you could feel the bass. Everyone was dumbfounded with their ability to play so low and strongly. The following is an excerpt from another forum that a guy wrote that was at my house last night

                              "Two rigs going at the same time on two different floors - my attention was truly divided. However, it was the upstairs rig that was intended to allow for easy swapping of gear, and there was plenty to try out. The source for the evening, which was never changed out was Tony's Sony SACD player (model # had a lot of 5's in it). When I arrived, Scott had it hooked to his Nikko integrated, which was punching his DIY Nano Neo speakers - very impressive, considering the amount this little project cost him - I believe he said about $85, which included a few cans of spray paint! I think I caught more than one person walk into this room and casually look around, trying to find the subwoofer that just had to be supplementing these tiny speakers..."

                              Even after we moved the Nano's over to listen to other speakers, I saw just about everyone go over and pick up the Nano's to get a closer look at this little driver and speaker cabinet design.

                              Thanks again Chris.

                              MLS

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                              • Re: on Sale - $55/pr (drivers & XO)

                                Got to my dad's place about 11am today and worked til about 9pm including clean up time. Got every panel cut and rabbeted for a pair of nano neos and a pair of the ntn's. Got all driver holes cut. Got ports for all four cut to length and got them epoxied in. I was able to incorporate several things this go around that I didn't do on mine. Namely not cutting all the way through on the ports. I will route out the rest which should make a much nicer port round over. Also used the drill press to cut all the driver holes as opposed to using a jig saw like I did last time. Everything is just that much more precise. Will post up some pics shortly. Still have to glue everything up. So Chris you can move me from thinking about it to doing it!

                                JustinL42

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