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  • Re: on Sale - $55/pr (drivers & XO)

    Alrighty then... Count me in.

    Just a couple (perhaps silly) questions from a newcomer to audioland.

    I have a very limited width cavity (115mm to be precise) in which to build these.

    My questions are:

    Will this project still work if I keep the overall internal box volume for NTNs the same as the Chris Roemers specified .55 cf?

    also,

    I'm building for a friends birthday present and this is his amplifier. Would it suit these speakers?

    http://www.hifiengine.com/manual_lib...r/sa-408.shtml

    Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

    Thank you in anticipation,

    Richard

    Comment


    • Re: on Sale - $55/pr (drivers & XO)

      You shouldn't have any width issues, as long as the woofers fit in there and you can adequately relieve the backside of the baffle so they can breathe adequately.
      These are a "very friendly" load to an 8 ohm rated amp, staying considerably above the "3-ohm dip" seen by most "4-ohm rated" speakers. I'd call them a solid 6-ohm design.

      Comment


      • Re: on Sale - $55/pr (drivers & XO)

        As far as the amp, it will do provided that the room isn't very large and that the friend isn't listening at loud levels.

        You'll only get about 101 dB max at full power on the Pioneer, maybe 95 peak about 2-3 meters.
        I was so much older then, I'm younger than that now.
        OS MTMs http://techtalk.parts-express.com/sh...d.php?t=220388
        Swope TM http://techtalk.parts-express.com/sh...d.php?t=221818
        Econowave and Audio Nirvana AN10 fullrange http://techtalk.parts-express.com/sh...d.php?t=216841
        Imperial Russian Stouts http://techtalk.parts-express.com/sh...=1#post1840444
        LECBOS. http://techtalk.parts-express.com/sh...ghlight=lecbos

        Comment


        • Re: on Sale - $55/pr (drivers & XO)

          Great news... Thanks for the replies fellas...

          Comment


          • Re: on Sale - $55/pr (drivers & XO)

            Hello again... Just a couple of questions about the inductors.

            I'm in Australia, and I'm trying to source what I can locally. I've found these inductors here, but I don't know enough about them to decide if they are right...

            2 mH 20AWG Air Core 1.18 ohm DCR 1062

            and

            0.25 mH 18AWG Air Core 0.22 ohm DCR 1076

            Will they be ok, or do I need the exact ones that are mentioned in the thread?

            Thanks again,

            Richard

            Comment


            • Re: on Sale - $55/pr (drivers & XO)

              The 0.25mH is fine.

              The 2.0mH's DCR of 1.2 ohms is not what I'd use. Try to find one w/a lower DCR.
              0.6 ohms would be the lowest I'd recommend (but the one you're referencing WILL still work, but it'll reduce the woofers' output a bit and alter the box tuning/bottom end rolloff some).
              The larger gauge air-cores can get expensive, but a #18 (2mH) will be better than the #20, and a #15 or #16 will be even better.
              The "iron core" coils would be what you're looking for. It's the core that will net you the lowest DCR.

              Comment


              • Re: on Sale - $55/pr (drivers & XO)

                Thanks again Chris... I think I'll just stick strictly to your plan...

                Cheers,

                Richard

                Comment


                • Re: on Sale - $55/pr (drivers & XO)

                  Ok... all parts ordered... $50 shipping to Australia... Ouch!!!

                  More questions...

                  I have worked out that if I use 16mm MDF, I can have internal dimensions of 82W x 250D x 774H = 15.86 litres which is around 56cf. Good?

                  Because of the size of the ND105s, I will have to partially route out some of the walls on either side of each enclosure (about 6mm either side).

                  Do you think this will affect anything?

                  Also, I think I will need to have the port coming out the front and I have read a few posts that suggest different port lengths and diameters.

                  What is the optimum diameter and length of the port tube, and given my unusual box size, is 10" up and centred from the bottom still a good place to position it?

                  Thank you again in anticipation,

                  Richard

                  Comment


                  • Re: for agroover

                    I brought this out here, 'cause you were wearing me down having to thread my way back into this post w/each additional question.

                    Initially, you said you had a 4.5"w cavity in which to build these. That's EXactly the ID of MY recommended box for them, so I figured "no problem".

                    NOW, it seems as though you're wanting to stuff an actual completed box withIN that 4.5" width. If you can get this to work, you should have pretty awesome bass, BUT . . . w/out knowing any more about the particular installation you've got planned, I'm beginning to worry.

                    Even w/ 5/8" walls, you'll have to remove 1/4" on each side just to get the driver to fit (leaving you w/ only 3/8").
                    If you look at the ND105 spec sheet, you can see that basically the backside of the driver exhausts nearly horizontally (rather than backwards, like most larger drivers do). You will basically only have half of the woofers' breathing space left, since, even w/routering the sidewalls, you still have no room for a backside roundover (which has been highly recommended throughout this thread). I think I used a 3/8" roundover bit on the back of the woofer holes in the baffle just to let those little guys breathe.

                    I'd recommend closing off your "cavities" to attain the required internal volume for the build and just inserting the front baffle w/the drivers and vent on it, IF YOU CAN?

                    If not, I certainly wish you luck. On your calc'd internal volume of 0.55 cf, I'd use a 2"id x 6" long port tube w/a generous roundover on the baffle. Should tune the box to the mid 40s. Keep us posted.

                    Comment


                    • Re: for agroover

                      Thanks again Chris...

                      No problems... only solutions 'round here...

                      Cheers,

                      Richard

                      Comment


                      • Re: for agroover

                        What problems would recessing the tweeter on these cause?

                        I'm planning to build a sandwich front baffle to hide the frame of the ND105 (1/4" Baffle > Drivers > 3/4" Baffle). The openings for the drivers on the 1/4" baffle would be rounded over. My thoughts were to mount the drivers on the 3/4" baffle to keep the same time alignment.

                        Thanks!
                        - P

                        Comment


                        • Re: for agroover

                          Take a look at the way these were done. It's a different design, but makes use of drivers with the same mounting flanges.

                          http://techtalk.parts-express.com/sh...63#post2038863

                          A few posts later in that thread Andy describes the techniques he used.

                          Comment


                          • My Nano Neos, errr one of them anyway:



                            I built them in Feb, but finally got around to finishing them. They are built to Chris' specs. I used mattress topper in the top of the enclosure and Roxul on the bottom. Cabinet is comprised of: Walnut ply for the sides, top and bottom, Birch ply for the rear, and solid Mahogany for the front.

                            Front baffle is finished with a couple coats of DIY vinegar stain, 1 coat of Dark Walnut Danish Oil, 1 coat of Merlot, wetsanded and then a couple coats of wipe on poly. I didn't like the way the Merlot stain looked so I sanded most of it off and left it for the reclaimed wood look. The rest of the enclosure was finished with a couple coats of DIY vinegar stain, 1 coat of Dark Walnut Danish Oil, wetsanded and a couple coats of wipe on poly.

                            I went into the build wanting to experiment with finishes and to incorporate a floating solid wood front baffle. The DIY vinegar stain and wipe on poly were new finishes for me. Both were nice to work with and I plan to incorporate them in future projects. More red on the front baffle would be nice, but they match our furniture as is, so I'll leave them be.

                            Sound is awesome. For music, I typically leave the sub off at lower to medium volumes and on a lot of the music I listen to, I hardly notice the sub is missing. Thanks Chris for a sweet design!

                            Comment


                            • Re: on Sale - $55/pr (drivers & XO)

                              You are welcome. And thank YOU for building this design. 158,000 views I see.

                              Comment


                              • Re: on Sale - $55/pr (drivers & XO)

                                Chris - you having worked extensively with the ND105-4, I was wondering what, in your opinion, would be the smallest enclosure for a vented alignment.

                                Comment

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