If this is your first visit, be sure to
check out the FAQ. You may have to register
before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages,
select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.
If you have an immediate customer service issue, please email Parts Express at [email protected] or call 800-338-0531, Monday-Friday 8am - 6pm EST.
Since my parts are on back-order I have nothing better to do, so I googled the drivers for the Spectrum. I found the spec sheet for the M6a, which says 14L is the recommended box size. Whereas the Spectrum's box size is 30L. ( http://www.swanspeaker.com/product/htm/view.asp?id=78 )
I'm not suggesting that the Spectrum's box size is wrong, just asking for educational purposes. What does HiVi base its recommended box size on? And is there really that much flexibility in suitable box sizes for a given driver, so that you can make it twice as big and still get a good result?
I'm sure Paul will give a more complete answer, but until then:
Don't know what HiVi bases recommendation on however it is likely a standard (simplified) model based on the tuning they quote. There is typically a lot of "flexibility" in box size depending on what you are trying to achieve.
Modeling software will easily show the difference in response for box size, tuning, alignment (i.e. sealed or vented, etc). In the case of the ZX spectrum I suspect the box size was chosen because its a "standard" cabinet that Paul has used in other designs. I think it was a "I wonder what" experiment that turned out well. You will also notice that Paul's tuning is quite a bit lower than the spec sheet.
Reasonable advice would be to ignore recommended box sizes and do your own modeling.
Since my parts are on back-order I have nothing better to do, so I googled the drivers for the Spectrum. I found the spec sheet for the M6a, which says 14L is the recommended box size. Whereas the Spectrum's box size is 30L. ( http://www.swanspeaker.com/product/htm/view.asp?id=78 )
I'm not suggesting that the Spectrum's box size is wrong, just asking for educational purposes. What does HiVi base its recommended box size on? And is there really that much flexibility in suitable box sizes for a given driver, so that you can make it twice as big and still get a good result?
Since my parts are on back-order I have nothing better to do, so I googled the drivers for the Spectrum. I found the spec sheet for the M6a, which says 14L is the recommended box size. Whereas the Spectrum's box size is 30L. ( http://www.swanspeaker.com/product/htm/view.asp?id=78 )
I'm not suggesting that the Spectrum's box size is wrong, just asking for educational purposes. What does HiVi base its recommended box size on? And is there really that much flexibility in suitable box sizes for a given driver, so that you can make it twice as big and still get a good result?
Interesting question. HiVi's recommended box sizes and tunings are often quite good--for those looking to make a "normal-size" speaker from them with solid bass performance. A 14 Liter (~.5 cu ft) bookshelf speaker with that woofer would kick some serious a--. It might be a bit punchy for some tastes, but definitely competitive with bookshelves by Revel or B&W or Paradigm or whoever.
I went for a larger enclosure because I was trying to squeeze the most bass extension I could from the driver. Also, fastbike is right, I had the cabinet on-hand and I thought, "Why not?" ;)
If you were to try both sizes in Unibox or winISD or whatever, you will see the tradeoffs in bass extension and FR.
Isn't it about time we started answering rhetorical questions?
Sure, you can stick them in any cab you want. No guarantees on the results. It also won't be Paul's design.
Do yourself a favor and build the design as is. You have the choice of a modestly sized, ported tower or a smaller sealed version. You can see the F3 differences. Depending on your preferences you may be happy with the sealed design without a sub. You will be able to notice the 8 Hz difference in F3.
Of course I know that if I build the design as designed, I will get the result the designer intended. Believe me, I have respect for proven designs, and for Paul as a designer.
I'm just trying to educate myself on the effects of different things, what makes a difference and what doesn't, how different changes affect different things, and so forth. From the little I know, I understand that putting these in a smaller box will result in less bass. I'm just curious whether the design would still "work" in other respects, or if it would cause problems.
I don't have Excel, but thanks much anyway. As much as I would enjoy delving into the design aspects of speakers, I'm sure I will never get much beyond the dabbling phase. Well, maybe once my kids are done with college. ;)
I'm just trying to educate myself on the effects of different things, what makes a difference and what doesn't, how different changes affect different things, and so forth. From the little I know, I understand that putting these in a smaller box will result in less bass. I'm just curious whether the design would still "work" in other respects, or if it would cause problems.
What you will end up with by putting the woofer in a smaller box is less bass extension (obviously), but also you will get somewhat of a "bass hump" between 80-120 Hz (depending on the woofer). The larger the box, the flatter the bass response can be. I'll try to put a few models up later on if I get the chance.
You can sometimes get away with doing a given crossover in a different sized enclosure, but sometimes it might not sound right, if the designer voiced the bass to have a certain characteristic based on the box tuning.
Isn't it about time we started answering rhetorical questions?
Unibox models in .5cuft sealed very well....if to be used with a sub of course. The near perfect 2nd order acoustic combined with a second order active from an AVR to a sub would make for a nice 2.1.......very nice indeed!
The BG Neo3 tweeter is available again and I picked up a pair of Neo3-PDRW (w/backup) to build a pair of these (PE ebay account for $86/ea vs $127 on normal PE). I've found a few different build threads, but still have some questions.
Was this designed with back-cup for the Neo3?
I imagine since its not an open baffle design it would have the back-cup on. Right now the PDR version is open back and PDRW has the back-cup, but I'm not sure if this used to be the case. I didn't find any pictures in build threads that shed light on it either. There are also the deep back-cup versions but it sounds like those were very rare on the PDR version. I could model and 3D print the deep back-cup if its advantageous. Saw someone mention it lowers Fs.
Neo3 Mounting
For mounting would there be any sonic effect if I use the rectangular meniscus mount? The BG mount doesn't really seem like waveguide, but maybe has an effect over the flat meniscus mount. I asked meniscus for a picture of how the tweeter mounts with their plate and I am waiting to hear back. With 8 holes it looks like it would just be fasteners through the front.
Paul's page mentions the BG faceplates coming in pairs (back then), but this is not the case anymore and the price is higher for a single than it used to be for the pair.
I found someone 3D printing faceplates and back-cups which I thought was interesting. Not something you'll get a smooth/attractive finish on without more finishing work.
1) Open baffle, the Neo3 PDR extends its frequency response a bit lower, but I still wouldn't use it much (if any) below 2 KHz.
2) I tried surface mounting and recessed mounting. The good news is, there's not much difference. The bad news is - the big thing here is the ragged FR of the Neo3 PDR itself. It's not smooth at all. The only time I thought this was a world class unit was when I used EQ on it via my MiniDSP. I'm currently using my Neo3 design with the MiniDSP and I love it. But I could never design a proper passive filter that was as neutral and transparent as I wanted to.
Here's the closest I could get to neutral back then.
Comment