Funny little W2-1767S....

[AR3A]

Re: Dead Design....before it was finished...

It is a shame the drivers are NLA I would of loved to make these as a gift for my Mom. Keep us posted

[Wolf]

Dead Design....before it was finished...

Too many things have happened since I started these, and now the W2 is NLA...

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=264-884

I will get these done at some point....
Wolf

[Wolf]

Re: Funny little W2-1767S....

Great work on the construction so far, Wolf! Very ingenious, as usual. :D

Thanks, bud! I hope to have them ready for InDIYana. Maybe not painted, but assembled.
Maybe I can get them glued up sometime this week and verify tuning.
Later,
Wolf

[Paul Carmody]

Re: Funny little W2-1767S....

Great work on the construction so far, Wolf! Very ingenious, as usual. :D

[cantigas]

Re: Funny little W2-1767S....

I don't know what you mean by one hand to adjust it, unless that's the volume level on the Tivoli.

For the Tivoli Pal, I mean a) it is easy to grab and move from room to room, and b) it is a bit beamy in the highs, so moving it across a surface and twisting it to point to where I am located is a trivial one-handed operation.

[Wolf]

Or one of these....

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=310-310

It would make a nice little stereo setup, methinks.
Later,
Wolf

[Wolf]

Re: Funny little W2-1767S....

I think it is possible...

http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/28-6411

^^^Just mount one of these on the back panel. PSU is a floor-wart or PC PSU probably.

You hit the nail on the head for the application. Desktop, wall-mounted ledge or mantle, unobtrusive speakers that give out a (hopefully) big sound.

I don't know what you mean by one hand to adjust it, unless that's the volume level on the Tivoli.

Thanks for the com(pli)ments! :D
Later,
Wolf

[cantigas]

Re: Funny little W2-1767S....

Got my eye on this project. This form factor is very similar to the Tivoli Pal. (I got one many-many years ago). I think this is the perfect size for table top, bookshelf top, or other surface edge locations. I like that fact that it takes just one hand to lift or adjust it. (Now if you could also put an amp and PS in there....just kidding.)

Keep it up.

[Wolf]

Here you go, Tater! *Pics*

Finally got some pics uploaded to the bucket...

Now maybe the diagrammed picture will be visualized in clearer detail.









More info and pictures to come as I progress.
Later, and thanks for looking!
Wolf

[Wolf]

Re: Update: Funny little W2-1767S....

Well, hurry up and take some!

If my wife would quit running off with the camera I might...
I hope to post some later...
Wolf

[Taterworks]

Re: Update: Funny little W2-1767S....

I'll post pictures when I take some...

Later,
Wolf

Well, hurry up and take some!

[Wolf]

Update: Funny little W2-1767S....

I have the baffles assembled and cut out.

I increased the opening into the port, and it's now a penant-shape to maximize flow and not decrease structural integrity. 3/4" long rectangular section, and then the triangle below that. I'll update the drawing to show more detail later.

It turns out I need to make another set of 4x 4" x 4" x 1/8" hardboard panels. The ports are a tad wider than expected, and allow breathing room to the belly cavity where the xover will be. One panel worth of depth will fix that, as well as give me something the fronts and backs can screw to for assembly instead of edge-MDF.

I got PE 091-1160 jacks for connections since they are tiny like the project and still take 'nanners. I tried to find an acorn nut to go over the open end on the inside, but it seems to be a non-standard pitch thread. It seems to be either an M6 or 1/4-20, 1/4-28.

The tweeters will easily press-fit, but are a non-standard hole size. About 12mm diameter total. I won't be using the M4 screw mounts.

One goal was to not use the router on this project, and I have not. I have used the drill-press, bandsaw, table and miter-saws, and the Dremel.
The baffle is 2 layers of the 1/8" hardboard, with one for the through hole, and the other for the rebate. I used a 'tungsten wood-shaping bit' in the dremel to accomplish the rebates, and it was fairly easy to do.

Since the cavity is covered by plexi, I have to glue that in place now that the connections are made through it, and then I can start on the rest of the assembly.

I'll post pictures when I take some...

Later,
Wolf

[Wolf]

Re: Funny little W2-1767S....

Hey Wolf,

The only thing I'd suggest before you start building is that you enlarge the inner opening of the port to probably 3 times what you have now. If that orifice creates any turbulence at all, it won't chuff -- it will whistle. The effective dimensions of the port will still be the dimensions of the pipe.

I thought about doing just that too...

I haven't started construction yet, but I have cut out the panels, minus baffles.
Later,
Wolf

[Taterworks]

Re: Funny little W2-1767S....

Hey Wolf,

The only thing I'd suggest before you start building is that you enlarge the inner opening of the port to probably 3 times what you have now. If that orifice creates any turbulence at all, it won't chuff -- it will whistle. The effective dimensions of the port will still be the dimensions of the pipe.

[Wolf]

That Acoustic Phase was really bothering me...

....and I finally took another look to see what I did wrong.
I had the Z-offset as a positive! :o

So- the schematic I just replaced the original file I uploaded with the correct one to avoid confusion. This thread has it right in all locations. All I had to do was reverse the polarity on the tweeter to get it to look fine, and it was in fact better aligned than before simmed.

Here's the corrected FR simulation response (much better!!):



I'm a lot happier with it's representation now, even if all that was wrong was the offset/polarity.

Later,
Wolf