Next up in the shop: a LOUD, paper-cone 3 way

[Mister Ed]

Re: Next up in the shop: a LOUD, paper-cone 3 way

In looking at the manufacturer data for the Peerless woofer (830688) there is a recommended optimum ported volume size of 3.92 cu ft. The Tarkus bottom cab works out to around 2.45 cu ft if I haven't screwed up on the math. So is there an option to increase the woofer cabinet volume without throwing things out of kilter?

I noticed another data spec: Compliance Equivalent Volume (Vas) = 2.57 ft.³
This is very close to the 2.45 stated above. Is that a coincidence or is Vas also used to calculate optimum size?

[Mark65]

Re: Next up in the shop: a LOUD, paper-cone 3 way

Paul did plenty of work coming up with that volume for the bass bins, and I can attest to the fact that it works as advertised. Don't mess with it, just build it as specified, and you'll be very, very happy. Trust me on this.

[Mister Ed]

Re: Progress. Boxes are built.

Is that silicone sealant covering the inside seams?

[Paul Carmody]

Re: Progress. Boxes are built.

Is that silicone sealant covering the inside seams?

Yes. Be sure to seal all the joints. Air leaks can mess up bass alignment.

[rexbass24]

Re: Next up in the shop: a LOUD, paper-cone 3 way

About to pull the trigger on component purchases this weekend and have decided to go with this design. Very nice! I already have myself convinced for eucalyptus veneer

One question though, Paul: I read your threads but didn't see any mention about where you ended up placing the port on the build. Could you share at what location you placed it for the final design and also for the option of the non-angled bottom bin? Much appreciated. Or does it matter in this type of build?

Sorry for my ignorance, new at this.

[Mike220]

Re: Next up in the shop: a LOUD, paper-cone 3 way

I built a pair of Tarkus a few years ago. They do not need to be angled at all it was a cosmetic decision. You can build square cabs without issue. I have seen front ported builds as well. I prefer the ports in the front because i always experience "more" bass output. I understand that cant really be true since the output is the same front of rear but in my rooms front ports always seem better to my ear.

[rexbass24]

Re: Next up in the shop: a LOUD, paper-cone 3 way

I built a pair of Tarkus a few years ago. They do not need to be angled at all it was a cosmetic decision. You can build square cabs without issue. I have seen front ported builds as well. I prefer the ports in the front because i always experience "more" bass output. I understand that cant really be true since the output is the same front of rear but in my rooms front ports always seem better to my ear.

Thanks for the info Mike. With that information at hand, I think I will prefer rear-ported to help keep that low-end thump tamed some. What about direction of sound when one decides between flat vs angled affect sound direction any? No difference, too?

Is there any ideal location for the port if using it in the back? I assume distance from bottom would affect tuning, right?

Also, I modeled it up in winisd but the port dimensions are way off from what Paul designed them to be. I will definitely follow Paul's guide in that regards, though.

Going to order the drivers in a few minutes. Nervous about the whole process but excited.

[Mike220]

Re: Next up in the shop: a LOUD, paper-cone 3 way

Same with the woofer. The 4" port was so long I just put it a few inches up from the bottom so the end didn't hit the baffle! Looks like Paul has an option for a 3" precision port as well. Some guys built it into a single cabinet like a juke box if you scroll down the page I linked to Pauls site. You may want to add a little extra stuffing to the woofer cab if you want to tame any boomy-ness if that concerns you.


From Paul's site:
"The woofer cabinet is 62 Liters, tuned to 30 Hz. I used a 4" dia piece of SCH 40 PVC that was 13.5" inches long. It just barely fits! I think one could get the same results using a 3" flared precision port, 8.5" long. The Woofer cabinet is lined with convoluted "eggcrate" foam, and does not have any stuffing or polyfil. The woofer cabinet will need a decent amount of bracing to tie the walls together, both from side-to-side and back-to-front. The TM cabinet will probably only need one simple brace; perhaps a piece of scrap 3" wide, tying the side walls together"

Here is Paul's tarkus writeup - https://sites.google.com/site/undefinition/tarkus

[rexbass24]

Re: Next up in the shop: a LOUD, paper-cone 3 way

Thanks. I think that confirms my hunches on measurement of the port location.

I was able to convince my wife to go along with this mainly because my tweets in the Toshiba 727's are so old that I could not get replacement tweeter diaphragms for it (lost it's brightness / domes are crackled), the woofers are getting deforming surrounds (some butyl loaded paper material of some type, it's got a tack when touched) and the adjustable L-pads are toast. Had these for 15 years - loved them! Then, my daughter poked in my bookshelves - DOH! So speakers are in short supply here and why not build the last music speaker ill ever need - and make it look killer in the process!?

Oh, definitely making protection grills for this design, so no more pokey fingers ruining my speakers!

Not sure what I want to go for in terms of look for them though, maybe just basic black covers but for the wood cabinet, I have visions of either 13-ply oak finished in a burst similar to OP, or just mdf boxes with 7ply front baffle veneered in eucalyptus - now even ideas of almost black boxes but baffle in burst eucalyptus - oh this can get dangerous...

I will likely create a build thread once I get this going. It will be a slow-going project, though. Just finished ordering the 10" woofers and tweeters.

Duties crossing border and shipping darn-near killed me as is so I have to space out my ordering. I realize this will get expensive due to that, but I am confident it will be all worth it once done.

But all in all - I AM LOCKED IN!!!

[marvin]

Re: Next up in the shop: a LOUD, paper-cone 3 way

So speakers are in short supply here and why not build the last music speaker ill ever need - and make it look killer in the process!?



Not sure what I want to go for in terms of look for them though, maybe just basic black covers but for the wood cabinet, I have visions of either 13-ply oak finished in a burst similar to OP, or just mdf boxes with 7ply front baffle veneered in eucalyptus - now even ideas of almost black boxes but baffle in burst eucalyptus - oh this can get dangerous...
!

You may be accurate in stating this may be the last speaker you ever need, but we DIY never seem to be content without at least one more. :p

IIRC, the presentation on the right at Meniscus last fall was a very nice iteration of the Tarkus. Maybe you have seen it already.

[rexbass24]

Re: Next up in the shop: a LOUD, paper-cone 3 way

Nice! I checked out the video from that meet, too. I cant get over all the professional finishes. Most wouldn't know any of these speakers are DIY just to look at them. Impressive.

Have to admit, after ordering some components last night, I came across the acoustic f5s on sale for dirt cheap (150 a tower) that seem to get better reviews than the klipsh reference set I had.. but I cant kick myself now.. in the end I believe these Tarkus speakers will have myself and my family grinning ear-to-ear... even my kidos appreciate good sound, especially the youngest

[malderink]

Re: Next up in the shop: a LOUD, paper-cone 3 way

Hi all! So I started trying to design my own speakers using the Vifa DX25TG59-04 and the Peerless SDS-160F25PR01-08 and then stumbled upon Paul's 3-Way design lol! I guess there is no sense in reinventing the wheel when Paul already has a very nice design. While the drivers I was going to use are not the same, they are similar and seem like they would match well w/ Paul's original design. I don't think there would be any issues using the original crossover with these drivers in place. The FR and specs are very close, the SDS-160 even has a bit more xmax. Mmm delicious xmax) Anyone have any thoughts on using these drivers Paul's crossover?

The only thing holding me back is the price of the 830668 10" drivers. I was also trying to find a cheaper sub alternative and thought of using the Dayton DC200 8" woofer, but not sure how this would perform compared to the Peerless 830668 10" woofer. I get very similar box models when using winISD, only the frequency response seem kind of funky after 200hz, but maybe this wont be an issue when crossed just above 400hz or maybe the crossover point needs to be lowered?

Just a side note. I really enjoy the Overnight sensations which inspired me to try and build my own speaker which eventually brought me back to Paul's design hehe) Thanks Paul for all of your contributions to the DIY community!

[soulsingin]

Re: Next up in the shop: a LOUD, paper-cone 3 way

Can the Tarkus be turned into a dual 10 tower set? or is this a drastic departure from the design of the Tarkus with no real advantage? Just a thought. Extra overkill. Why not?

[Paul Carmody]

Re: Next up in the shop: a LOUD, paper-cone 3 way

Can the Tarkus be turned into a dual 10 tower set? or is this a drastic departure from the design of the Tarkus with no real advantage? Just a thought. Extra overkill. Why not?

It would be a totally new design. I don't think the 2-cabinet design would work that well, since you'd need 6-7 cu ft for two of the woofers.

[soulsingin]

Re: Next up in the shop: a LOUD, paper-cone 3 way

ok. Thank you for the reply. I had some Dayton dual 8's that I ended up blowing out so I thought why not dual 10's since I have most of the parts to build the Tarkus anyway.