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  • Any reply from any of the builders please? I plan to order x-over components locally and they are gonna cost me almost 200USD. As you can see from the sch, I have kept most caps as polyprop... Only the woofer ckt gets the lone NP electrolytic . Most caps will be by Jantzen and if not, atleast bypassed by Jantzen crosscap polyprop (8.2u, 15u, 12u and 4.7u's of Jentzen).
    18AWG air core inductors all around n mid+twtr. 6mH 16awg Laminated Iron core inductor on woofer.
    All resistors will be paralleled 10W non-inductive ones.

    Comment


    • Hello,
      First post.
      I am interested in building a pair of the Tarkus. Looks like a fun project.
      I know NOTHING about electronics so I have a newbie question.
      The BOM below says for C5 125uF electrolytic capacitor 255-246.
      The 255-246 is currently showing as a Jantzen Audio 0.90mH 18 AWG Air Core Inductor Crossover Coil in PE catalog.

      Can I use: PN 027-362 125uf 100V Non-Polarized Capacitor?
      These high quality bi-polar (non-polarized) electrolytic capacitors are perfect for your next crossover design. They feature a 5% dissipation factor and are rated at 100V which are effective to approximately 200 watts.
      Key Features
      • 125 microfarad value
      • 18 mm diameter x 38 mm long
      • 5% dissipation factor and 100 VDC working voltage
      • ±10% tolerance

      Comment


      • YES. YOU have the correct part # for the npe cap you seek.
        (Not sure if that's Paul's list or not, but) that BOM list has at least 1 other error on it.
        #027-432 LOOKs like it's currently a 12uF poly to me. (I did NOT look at schematic, so don't know if a 12 or 15 is correct?)

        Comment


        • Originally posted by Chris Roemer View Post
          YES. YOU have the correct part # for the npe cap you seek.
          (Not sure if that's Paul's list or not, but) that BOM list has at least 1 other error on it.
          #027-432 LOOKs like it's currently a 12uF poly to me. (I did NOT look at schematic, so don't know if a 12 or 15 is correct?)
          It looks like 027-432 the correct value and PN. The BOM from 2010 says use C2a (50uF) + C2b (15uF) in parallel.
          The latest schematic I could find is from 2016 on Paul's site.

          If there is any new info I would appreciate it.

          Thanks again!

          Comment


          • hello everyone,
            I hadnt updated my build. The build is completed long ago. They are wonderful be it for music or movies. I dont feel the need for a subwoofer.
            In case anyone wants to build x-over on a PCB, I have some with 70um copper thickness (last 8 remain) . They are universal and can take almost all general component sizes.
            Here is my build thread and some pics including pcbs.

            https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/mult...st5739121.html

            Comment


            • They look so good! I'm really impressed with the custom XO boards. Wish I had that talent.
              Isn't it about time we started answering rhetorical questions?

              Paul Carmody's DIY Audio Projects
              Twitter: @undefinition1

              Comment


              • Thanks Paul for the kind words.
                I thank you for bringing this beautiful and practical design for all aspiring speaker builders.
                regards
                prasi @ diyaudio

                Comment


                • I'm really interested in building these speakers.

                  Is the BOM, in Post # 197 above, correct at this time ?

                  If not, what changes are necessary?

                  Thanks all.

                  Comment


                  • Ohhhh
                    Come on. Nobody can verify the BOM for this speaker build?
                    I'm new to the whole passive crossover idea and just want to make sure I get all of the correct components.

                    Thanks

                    Comment


                    • fpitas
                      fpitas commented
                      Editing a comment
                      You might contact Paul Carmody.

                  • Between 2010 (orig. release) and 2017, the DX25 tweeter changed from mod "09" to "59", and Paul felt a need to update the XO.
                    The above BOM IS based on the updated XO, but ...
                    Today, I'd certainly feel free to use Dayton's inductors rather than Jantzen (at a co$t $avings).

                    I also see no need to use an npe cap (electrolytics "dry out" over time) for a value as small as 4.7uF (or possibly even 12uF?).
                    Also, that BOM LOOKs to have all the resistors "doubled up" (for power-handling). Paul MIGHT have suggested this initially, but I doubt that the L-pad on the tweeter would need this (it's probably even overkill on a band-passed midrange).

                    Comment


                    • Originally posted by Chris Roemer View Post
                      Between 2010 (orig. release) and 2017, the DX25 tweeter changed from mod "09" to "59", and Paul felt a need to update the XO.
                      The above BOM IS based on the updated XO, but ...
                      Today, I'd certainly feel free to use Dayton's inductors rather than Jantzen (at a co$t $avings).

                      I also see no need to use an npe cap (electrolytics "dry out" over time) for a value as small as 4.7uF (or possibly even 12uF?).
                      Also, that BOM LOOKs to have all the resistors "doubled up" (for power-handling). Paul MIGHT have suggested this initially, but I doubt that the L-pad on the tweeter would need this (it's probably even overkill on a band-passed midrange).
                      Chris is correct on all counts, as usual. I did double-up resistors everywhere. This was around the time that one of our forum members set fire to the resistors on his Statements Monitors. So I erred on the side of caution.
                      Isn't it about time we started answering rhetorical questions?

                      Paul Carmody's DIY Audio Projects
                      Twitter: @undefinition1

                      Comment


                      • As I mentioned, I really have no idea about the components of a passive crossover.

                        So, if I just order what's on the list, except cutting the resistor quantities in half, I'll be good. Right ?

                        Comment


                        • djg
                          djg commented
                          Editing a comment
                          https://www.electronics-tutorials.ws...tor/res_4.html

                          Not to confuse you. If you want to replace two 10 ohm resistors wired in parallel, with one resistor, a 5 ohm resistor is called for. So, "cutting the resistor quantities in half" will leave you with incorrect values.

                      • Paul's saying that instead of PAIRS for resistors R1, R2, R3, and R4 (made from 10n(ohm), 16n, 9.1n, and 25n resistors),
                        you can just use a single (10w min.) 5n, 8n, 4.7n(I'd go with a 5n), and 12n resistors.

                        Comment

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