Next up in the shop: a LOUD, paper-cone 3 way

[Analogdesign]

Any reply from any of the builders please? I plan to order x-over components locally and they are gonna cost me almost 200USD. As you can see from the sch, I have kept most caps as polyprop... Only the woofer ckt gets the lone NP electrolytic . Most caps will be by Jantzen and if not, atleast bypassed by Jantzen crosscap polyprop (8.2u, 15u, 12u and 4.7u's of Jentzen).
18AWG air core inductors all around n mid+twtr. 6mH 16awg Laminated Iron core inductor on woofer.
All resistors will be paralleled 10W non-inductive ones.

[Chainsaw]

Hello,
First post.
I am interested in building a pair of the Tarkus. Looks like a fun project.
I know NOTHING about electronics so I have a newbie question.
The BOM below says for C5 125uF electrolytic capacitor 255-246.
The 255-246 is currently showing as a Jantzen Audio 0.90mH 18 AWG Air Core Inductor Crossover Coil in PE catalog.

Can I use: PN 027-362 125uf 100V Non-Polarized Capacitor?
These high quality bi-polar (non-polarized) electrolytic capacitors are perfect for your next crossover design. They feature a 5% dissipation factor and are rated at 100V which are effective to approximately 200 watts.
Key Features

• 125 microfarad value
• 18 mm diameter x 38 mm long
• 5% dissipation factor and 100 VDC working voltage
• ±10% tolerance

• 

[Chris Roemer]

YES. YOU have the correct part # for the npe cap you seek.
(Not sure if that's Paul's list or not, but) that BOM list has at least 1 other error on it.
#027-432 LOOKs like it's currently a 12uF poly to me. (I did NOT look at schematic, so don't know if a 12 or 15 is correct?)

[Chainsaw]

YES. YOU have the correct part # for the npe cap you seek.
(Not sure if that's Paul's list or not, but) that BOM list has at least 1 other error on it.
#027-432 LOOKs like it's currently a 12uF poly to me. (I did NOT look at schematic, so don't know if a 12 or 15 is correct?)

It looks like 027-432 the correct value and PN. The BOM from 2010 says use C2a (50uF) + C2b (15uF) in parallel.
The latest schematic I could find is from 2016 on Paul's site.

If there is any new info I would appreciate it.

Thanks again!

[Analogdesign]

hello everyone,
I hadnt updated my build. The build is completed long ago. They are wonderful be it for music or movies. I dont feel the need for a subwoofer.
In case anyone wants to build x-over on a PCB, I have some with 70um copper thickness (last 8 remain) . They are universal and can take almost all general component sizes.
Here is my build thread and some pics including pcbs.

https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/335689-paul-carmodys-tarkus-finally-post5739121.html

[Paul Carmody]

They look so good! I'm really impressed with the custom XO boards. Wish I had that talent.

[Analogdesign]

Thanks Paul for the kind words.
I thank you for bringing this beautiful and practical design for all aspiring speaker builders.
regards
prasi @ diyaudio

[Serenitynow]

I'm really interested in building these speakers.

Is the BOM, in Post # 197 above, correct at this time ?

If not, what changes are necessary?

Thanks all.

[Serenitynow]

Ohhhh
Come on. Nobody can verify the BOM for this speaker build?
I'm new to the whole passive crossover idea and just want to make sure I get all of the correct components.

Thanks

[fpitas]

You might contact Paul Carmody.

[Chris Roemer]

Between 2010 (orig. release) and 2017, the DX25 tweeter changed from mod "09" to "59", and Paul felt a need to update the XO.
The above BOM IS based on the updated XO, but ...
Today, I'd certainly feel free to use Dayton's inductors rather than Jantzen (at a co$t $avings).

I also see no need to use an npe cap (electrolytics "dry out" over time) for a value as small as 4.7uF (or possibly even 12uF?).
Also, that BOM LOOKs to have all the resistors "doubled up" (for power-handling). Paul MIGHT have suggested this initially, but I doubt that the L-pad on the tweeter would need this (it's probably even overkill on a band-passed midrange).

[Paul Carmody]

Between 2010 (orig. release) and 2017, the DX25 tweeter changed from mod "09" to "59", and Paul felt a need to update the XO.
The above BOM IS based on the updated XO, but ...
Today, I'd certainly feel free to use Dayton's inductors rather than Jantzen (at a co$t $avings).

I also see no need to use an npe cap (electrolytics "dry out" over time) for a value as small as 4.7uF (or possibly even 12uF?).
Also, that BOM LOOKs to have all the resistors "doubled up" (for power-handling). Paul MIGHT have suggested this initially, but I doubt that the L-pad on the tweeter would need this (it's probably even overkill on a band-passed midrange).

Chris is correct on all counts, as usual. I did double-up resistors everywhere. This was around the time that one of our forum members set fire to the resistors on his Statements Monitors. So I erred on the side of caution.

[Serenitynow]

As I mentioned, I really have no idea about the components of a passive crossover.

So, if I just order what's on the list, except cutting the resistor quantities in half, I'll be good. Right ?

[djg]

https://www.electronics-tutorials.ws/resistor/res_4.html

Not to confuse you. If you want to replace two 10 ohm resistors wired in parallel, with one resistor, a 5 ohm resistor is called for. So, "cutting the resistor quantities in half" will leave you with incorrect values.

[Chris Roemer]

Paul's saying that instead of PAIRS for resistors R1, R2, R3, and R4 (made from 10n(ohm), 16n, 9.1n, and 25n resistors),
you can just use a single (10w min.) 5n, 8n, 4.7n(I'd go with a 5n), and 12n resistors.

[alexchong]

Hi All,

I am done with my Tarkus build. Cabinets are drying in the workshop after staining. Now in the process of building the crossovers. I have a question. I noticed on Paul's crossover schematic, there is no indication on how to solder up the resistors, capacitors and inductors. I understand there is polarity that I need to consider otherwise the crossover won't work properly.

I understand about reversing the polarity of the connectors for the mid speaker and tweeter. But do I need to worry about the components when soldering them together? How do I tell which direction I should solder the terminal wires for the resistors and capacitors? Thanks in advance.

[billfitzmaurice]

Resistors, inductors and crossover capacitors have no polarity. If you have a cap that's marked +/- it's not suitable for crossover use.

[djg]

Do yourself a big favor, buy a pair of these on ebay. Well worth the money if you're new at this.