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Paul what's your take on those woofers? How high are you crossing them? I've got 4 out in the garage and would welcome your thoughts.
Do you mean the 10" SLS (830668)? I have to say that there's really not much like them these days--at that price point, anyway. They will play pretty high; I try not to cross 3-ways above 350 or so, but I tried going higher and they sounded very comfortable. A cross to a dome mid might actually be possible, as the FR is very smooth.
I have a feeling it was designed to emulate the old Vifa M26WR, but take that with a grain of salt, since I've never actually used the Vifa.
The days of 10"+ woofers for home use seem to be a thing of the past (woofers, not subs). But that doesn't mean they aren't still viable. You're a daring guy, Lou. I think you'll find a good use for them.
The big wire wounds aren't all that bad either. You could always run 2-3 "regulars" in parallel too (if you have the right values) You know somebody's gonna crank those to 11 someday... :eek:;)
Good point! I think I should design this speaker for worst-case scenarios.
Isn't it about time we started answering rhetorical questions?
Do you mean the 10" SLS (830668)? I have to say that there's really not much like them these days--at that price point, anyway. ....
That's good to know. Spec wise those reminded me of the 850146 10" woofers that were so nice in a sealed box BITD. I doubt I'll be doing anything with dome mids in the near future. Too many 3-5" drivers to use up.
Good point! I think I should design this speaker for worst-case scenarios.
The way things go these days, I could see getting sued by someone who runs 500 watts through them at party some day. Anything that big and bad would probably qualify under the "attractive nuisance" clause in our tort system. :D:D
Lou's Speaker Site [speakers.lonesaguaro.com] "Different" is objective, "better" is subjective. Taste is not a provable fact. Where are you John Galt? I may not be worthy, but I'm ready.
IIRC, those buyouts were originally from a low-end Genelec (well, low-end compared to most Genelec products) 10" 2-way studio monitor. Presumably, this means they can cross over higher than the average 10" woofer, and will make our lives much easier.
It also should allow the use of a high-FS high efficiency midrange driver.
I learned the hard way. When I lived in Billings, MT I had a corner lot. Drifting snow always covered up my side walk. Somebody slipped and fell, tried to sue me. Lawyer told me if I shoveled the public sidewalk, it was an "attractive nuisance" and I was inviting people to walk there. If I left it alone, it was an "obvious hazard". So I saved my back, and told the HOA to stick it where the sun don't shine. Same thing for construction equipment left on site with no fence.
Lou's Speaker Site [speakers.lonesaguaro.com] "Different" is objective, "better" is subjective. Taste is not a provable fact. Where are you John Galt? I may not be worthy, but I'm ready.
I learned the hard way. When I lived in Billings, MT I had a corner lot. Drifting snow always covered up my side walk. Somebody slipped and fell, tried to sue me. Lawyer told me if I shoveled the public sidewalk, it was an "attractive nuisance" and I was inviting people to walk there. If I left it alone, it was an "obvious hazard". So I saved my back, and told the HOA to stick it where the sun don't shine. Same thing for construction equipment left on site with no fence.
Some municipalities have ordinances requiring residents to shovel sidewalks. This, unfortunately, places the burden back onto the homeowner - if someone falls because the walk isn't shoveled when it should have been, the homeowner can be held liable.
That I don't doubt. Snow on the Montana prairie rarely "falls" mostly it blows around and occasionally hits the ground. Like shoveling talcum powder.:D;)
Lou's Speaker Site [speakers.lonesaguaro.com] "Different" is objective, "better" is subjective. Taste is not a provable fact. Where are you John Galt? I may not be worthy, but I'm ready.
As for driver cost - I find little correlation with driver performance vs. cost. You can find $30 5"-7" mids that are sufficient for top notch high end performance if you pick carefully/wisely and you can find $500 drivers that are essentially crap. Today, a great speaker system has more to do with competent engineering/design/execution, not driver cost.
-Chris
I agree totally. A competent designer can make anything sound reasonable unless it is straight up trash, but a competent designer would not select trash in the first place. I've made $30 subwoofers that would reach 25 Hz and I've designed high end speaker systems for people where the crossovers cost $300 per side. It's all dependent on your knowledge and experience.
The crossover is basically done (I'll post the details and BOM soon) I ordered the parts up and they should be here in a few days. That brings me to the final frontier: finishing.
I'm actually starting to finally "get" finishing, which is exciting! I actually enjoy it, which I never thought I would!
So I'm going with a veneer on this project, but I'm totally scratching my head as to what to use. The only veneers I don't want to use right now are mahogany (because I just used it on the Swope HT over the summer and I want to try something different) and Oak (because I've already worked with oak hardwood enough).
Any suggestions for veneer? Anyone have any inspirational pics?
Isn't it about time we started answering rhetorical questions?
So I'm going with a veneer on this project, but I'm totally scratching my head as to what to use. The only veneers I don't want to use right now are mahogany (because I just used it on the Swope HT over the summer and I want to try something different) and Oak (because I've already worked with oak hardwood enough).
Any suggestions for veneer? Anyone have any inspirational pics?
Those cabinets will be a snap to veneer, all flat surfaces with square edges. That means you can cold press each surface with just a piece of scrap MDF and clamps, and easy to edge trim. Since that's the case, I'd take advantage of the possibilities and choose some sort of exotic raw veneer. If you've never spliced a bookmatch, don't worry - it's easy. All you need is an x-acto knife, a metal straight edge, and some veneer tape. I'd never done it ... until the first time I tried, and it came out perfect my first attempt.
If you are looking for backed bargain veneer (you might need 2 sheets for those badboys) check the Formwood overstock
The Planetree (kind of a lacewood) or Maple would be different. Koto is typically a blond mahogany (similar to the "Tigerwood" on some of my boxes). Louro Preto is typically a darker, walnut looking wood. Those look reasonably priced.
The "phenolic" will be easier to do with contact cement than heatlock if you decide on something with that backer.
Lou's Speaker Site [speakers.lonesaguaro.com] "Different" is objective, "better" is subjective. Taste is not a provable fact. Where are you John Galt? I may not be worthy, but I'm ready.
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