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  • djg
    replied
    Do yourself a big favor, buy a pair of these on ebay. Well worth the money if you're new at this.

    Click image for larger version

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  • billfitzmaurice
    commented on 's reply
    Resistors, inductors and crossover capacitors have no polarity. If you have a cap that's marked +/- it's not suitable for crossover use.

  • alexchong
    replied
    Hi All,

    I am done with my Tarkus build. Cabinets are drying in the workshop after staining. Now in the process of building the crossovers. I have a question. I noticed on Paul's crossover schematic, there is no indication on how to solder up the resistors, capacitors and inductors. I understand there is polarity that I need to consider otherwise the crossover won't work properly.

    I understand about reversing the polarity of the connectors for the mid speaker and tweeter. But do I need to worry about the components when soldering them together? How do I tell which direction I should solder the terminal wires for the resistors and capacitors? Thanks in advance.

    Leave a comment:


  • djg
    commented on 's reply
    Electronics Tutorial about Resistors in Parallel with Parallel Resistors Connected Together and Resistors in Parallel Combinations


    Not to confuse you. If you want to replace two 10 ohm resistors wired in parallel, with one resistor, a 5 ohm resistor is called for. So, "cutting the resistor quantities in half" will leave you with incorrect values.

  • Chris Roemer
    replied
    Paul's saying that instead of PAIRS for resistors R1, R2, R3, and R4 (made from 10n(ohm), 16n, 9.1n, and 25n resistors),
    you can just use a single (10w min.) 5n, 8n, 4.7n(I'd go with a 5n), and 12n resistors.

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  • Serenitynow
    replied
    As I mentioned, I really have no idea about the components of a passive crossover.

    So, if I just order what's on the list, except cutting the resistor quantities in half, I'll be good. Right ?

    Leave a comment:


  • Paul Carmody
    replied
    Originally posted by Chris Roemer View Post
    Between 2010 (orig. release) and 2017, the DX25 tweeter changed from mod "09" to "59", and Paul felt a need to update the XO.
    The above BOM IS based on the updated XO, but ...
    Today, I'd certainly feel free to use Dayton's inductors rather than Jantzen (at a co$t $avings).

    I also see no need to use an npe cap (electrolytics "dry out" over time) for a value as small as 4.7uF (or possibly even 12uF?).
    Also, that BOM LOOKs to have all the resistors "doubled up" (for power-handling). Paul MIGHT have suggested this initially, but I doubt that the L-pad on the tweeter would need this (it's probably even overkill on a band-passed midrange).
    Chris is correct on all counts, as usual. I did double-up resistors everywhere. This was around the time that one of our forum members set fire to the resistors on his Statements Monitors. So I erred on the side of caution.

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  • Chris Roemer
    replied
    Between 2010 (orig. release) and 2017, the DX25 tweeter changed from mod "09" to "59", and Paul felt a need to update the XO.
    The above BOM IS based on the updated XO, but ...
    Today, I'd certainly feel free to use Dayton's inductors rather than Jantzen (at a co$t $avings).

    I also see no need to use an npe cap (electrolytics "dry out" over time) for a value as small as 4.7uF (or possibly even 12uF?).
    Also, that BOM LOOKs to have all the resistors "doubled up" (for power-handling). Paul MIGHT have suggested this initially, but I doubt that the L-pad on the tweeter would need this (it's probably even overkill on a band-passed midrange).

    Leave a comment:


  • fpitas
    commented on 's reply
    You might contact Paul Carmody.

  • Serenitynow
    replied
    Ohhhh
    Come on. Nobody can verify the BOM for this speaker build?
    I'm new to the whole passive crossover idea and just want to make sure I get all of the correct components.

    Thanks

    Leave a comment:


  • Serenitynow
    replied
    I'm really interested in building these speakers.

    Is the BOM, in Post # 197 above, correct at this time ?

    If not, what changes are necessary?

    Thanks all.

    Leave a comment:


  • Analogdesign
    replied
    Thanks Paul for the kind words.
    I thank you for bringing this beautiful and practical design for all aspiring speaker builders.
    regards
    prasi @ diyaudio

    Leave a comment:


  • Paul Carmody
    replied
    They look so good! I'm really impressed with the custom XO boards. Wish I had that talent.

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  • Analogdesign
    replied
    hello everyone,
    I hadnt updated my build. The build is completed long ago. They are wonderful be it for music or movies. I dont feel the need for a subwoofer.
    In case anyone wants to build x-over on a PCB, I have some with 70um copper thickness (last 8 remain) . They are universal and can take almost all general component sizes.
    Here is my build thread and some pics including pcbs.

    Finally finished PC's Tarkus speakers almost a year after planning on the occasion of my daughter's first birthday!. Initial PCB for mid+tweeter had a mistake which was brought to my notice by a fellow builder in India. So had to correct the design and manufacture the pcbs again!. Painting took...

    Leave a comment:


  • Chainsaw
    replied
    Originally posted by Chris Roemer View Post
    YES. YOU have the correct part # for the npe cap you seek.
    (Not sure if that's Paul's list or not, but) that BOM list has at least 1 other error on it.
    #027-432 LOOKs like it's currently a 12uF poly to me. (I did NOT look at schematic, so don't know if a 12 or 15 is correct?)
    It looks like 027-432 the correct value and PN. The BOM from 2010 says use C2a (50uF) + C2b (15uF) in parallel.
    The latest schematic I could find is from 2016 on Paul's site.

    If there is any new info I would appreciate it.

    Thanks again!

    Leave a comment:

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