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My new favorite tool: The veneer saw!
I'm trying to veneer my 2 pair of Aviatrices myself, instead of giving up and getting my carpenter friend to do it.
I wasn't happy with how my edges were coming out. The box I did with a sharp, new, nonfolding utility knife looks...not good.
I tried a flush trim bit in the router (new, Freud, carbide) . Very nice at cutting the veneer, I had no problems with tearout...but it wanted to leave a little bit of paper on the edge. With the contact cement, this paper folded over and stuck instantly to the next face (ARGH!). With the Unibond 800 I started using on the MLTLs, it just hangs there, and lets you come back and painstakingly rip it off.
I wasn't tickled with the Unibond either, and since I'm trying to settle on a method, I ordered some Better Bond cold press glue, and tried it out. Used a bit too much glue on the first side with it, and I got a little bit of waviness in that panel, but it's not too bad, and I don't think anyone will notice on the ribbon-stripe mahogany, and I can arrange my room so nobody sees that side. Watch the video on the joewoodworker or veneersupplies site, it's a great help.
I had bought one of the sharpened veneer saws at veneersupplies.com to use to piece together the back for the third sealed. And I thought, I don't really want to pull the car out of the garage tomorrow, fire up the router. I wonder if I could do it with the veneer saw, trimming the excess off of the just-veneered side.
Wow. That is the cleanest edge I have ever seen. Seriously. One swipe of 120-grit, and it'll be absolutely perfect.
So now I'll move onto the rest of the MLTLs tomorrow. I can't seem to get the corners to stick the first time with either the Unibond or the Better Bond, so I just go back after it dries and inject it with a glue syringe and clamp it. I'd stick to the Titan DX if I could reliably not foul it up.
They say mistakes are how we learn; I hope I'm about done learning on this project.
I wasn't happy with how my edges were coming out. The box I did with a sharp, new, nonfolding utility knife looks...not good.
I tried a flush trim bit in the router (new, Freud, carbide) . Very nice at cutting the veneer, I had no problems with tearout...but it wanted to leave a little bit of paper on the edge. With the contact cement, this paper folded over and stuck instantly to the next face (ARGH!). With the Unibond 800 I started using on the MLTLs, it just hangs there, and lets you come back and painstakingly rip it off.
I wasn't tickled with the Unibond either, and since I'm trying to settle on a method, I ordered some Better Bond cold press glue, and tried it out. Used a bit too much glue on the first side with it, and I got a little bit of waviness in that panel, but it's not too bad, and I don't think anyone will notice on the ribbon-stripe mahogany, and I can arrange my room so nobody sees that side. Watch the video on the joewoodworker or veneersupplies site, it's a great help.
I had bought one of the sharpened veneer saws at veneersupplies.com to use to piece together the back for the third sealed. And I thought, I don't really want to pull the car out of the garage tomorrow, fire up the router. I wonder if I could do it with the veneer saw, trimming the excess off of the just-veneered side.
Wow. That is the cleanest edge I have ever seen. Seriously. One swipe of 120-grit, and it'll be absolutely perfect.
So now I'll move onto the rest of the MLTLs tomorrow. I can't seem to get the corners to stick the first time with either the Unibond or the Better Bond, so I just go back after it dries and inject it with a glue syringe and clamp it. I'd stick to the Titan DX if I could reliably not foul it up.
They say mistakes are how we learn; I hope I'm about done learning on this project.
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