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The drivers are:
Peerless 6.5" HDS http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=299-281
and the Vifa XT25TG30 http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...umber=264-1016
I'm on my second x-over version so far, but the drivers are nice! Comparing this to my last build, using 2 Klipsch 6.5's and a cheap tang band tweeter, made me realize the important of quality drivers (not just the crossover.)
The speakers were requested by my father to give as a present to a business friend of his. I know nothing about him, except he is:
-financially "well-off"
-has no problem spending $400 on Bose earphones.
My goals:
-Build speakers with removable front and rear baffles. (just to try out)
-Don't require a sub
-Small(ish) size. Something like a monitor or slightly larger
-sound good to an "audiophile" that knows nothing about DIY speakers
the last is the hardest to accomplish, and I have no way to judge.
Because of the impressive low end of the Overnight Sensations, I decided to not skimp on the port tuning. I envisioned these as a better, higher-end version of the OS's because the drivers were better and box was larger. I'm sure the x-overs are far from better, but that's where I'd hope the driver quality comes in. The removable rear baffle is really the only reason I even compared them. My idea for the rear baffle came from here via williamrschneider:http://techtalk.parts-express.com/sh...d.php?t=212179
The box is 3/4"birch ply with another layer of fiberboard/hardboard on the outside. The hardboard was used primarily to provide a smooth surface although it does add strength, which is nice.
I needed a larger diameter port, but didn't have the PVC. To minimize chances of chuffing on the smaller size, I flared the ends of what I had with a heat gun and a professional mold. I just heated it and rotated it as I pushed the pipe down on the mold.
Next, I drilled an inset for the PVC and used Gorilla glue, or similar, to glue the port onto the back plate. It seems to work the best for PVC, but it's not my favorite glue.
I then used a roundover on the other end of the port.
The front and back are 3/4MDF that are attached by 1/4-20 Hex cap screws with a layer of gasketing tape between. Hurricane nuts are glued to mdf braces.
Here you can see how the back is routed out
And how the back fits...
To finish them, I used "rattle-can" sprayable bedliner on the front and back and "black ash" vinyl laminate on the sides of the cabinet.
I'll add the speaker terminals when I finalize the crossover...
EDIT: This is the final crossover:
Peerless 6.5" HDS http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=299-281
and the Vifa XT25TG30 http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...umber=264-1016
I'm on my second x-over version so far, but the drivers are nice! Comparing this to my last build, using 2 Klipsch 6.5's and a cheap tang band tweeter, made me realize the important of quality drivers (not just the crossover.)
The speakers were requested by my father to give as a present to a business friend of his. I know nothing about him, except he is:
-financially "well-off"
-has no problem spending $400 on Bose earphones.
My goals:
-Build speakers with removable front and rear baffles. (just to try out)
-Don't require a sub
-Small(ish) size. Something like a monitor or slightly larger
-sound good to an "audiophile" that knows nothing about DIY speakers
the last is the hardest to accomplish, and I have no way to judge.
Because of the impressive low end of the Overnight Sensations, I decided to not skimp on the port tuning. I envisioned these as a better, higher-end version of the OS's because the drivers were better and box was larger. I'm sure the x-overs are far from better, but that's where I'd hope the driver quality comes in. The removable rear baffle is really the only reason I even compared them. My idea for the rear baffle came from here via williamrschneider:http://techtalk.parts-express.com/sh...d.php?t=212179
The box is 3/4"birch ply with another layer of fiberboard/hardboard on the outside. The hardboard was used primarily to provide a smooth surface although it does add strength, which is nice.
I needed a larger diameter port, but didn't have the PVC. To minimize chances of chuffing on the smaller size, I flared the ends of what I had with a heat gun and a professional mold. I just heated it and rotated it as I pushed the pipe down on the mold.
Next, I drilled an inset for the PVC and used Gorilla glue, or similar, to glue the port onto the back plate. It seems to work the best for PVC, but it's not my favorite glue.
I then used a roundover on the other end of the port.
The front and back are 3/4MDF that are attached by 1/4-20 Hex cap screws with a layer of gasketing tape between. Hurricane nuts are glued to mdf braces.
Here you can see how the back is routed out
And how the back fits...
To finish them, I used "rattle-can" sprayable bedliner on the front and back and "black ash" vinyl laminate on the sides of the cabinet.
I'll add the speaker terminals when I finalize the crossover...
EDIT: This is the final crossover:
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