Core 2-Way - Build Tread

[fastbike1]

Re: Core 2-Way - Build Tread

So you two (Mark /Paul) am I the only one that always makes a removable back or panel? ;)

I also learned how much harder it is to patch the foam inside thru a speaker hole than it was without a baffle. Gotta thank Undef for using a 7 incher on this design.

[MrkCrwly]

Re: Core 2-Way - Build Tread

So you two (Mark /Paul) am I the only one that always makes a removable back or panel? ;)

No need for removable panels when you can take out crossovers and insulation with an 1/8" drill bit.:o

[Dave_W]

Re: Core 2-Way - Build Tread

How are these coming along?

I'm very interested in building a pair of these. I like the idea of paring the RS28 with a big midrange speaker. Not to mention my linear mind likes the ridiculous idea of having all the speakers be the same brand :D

[MrkCrwly]

Re: Core 2-Way - Build Tread

How are these coming along?

I test fit the drivers, drilled for inserts and finished the light sanding of the veneer tonight. I am ready for stain. I thought I moving at a decent pace until Lunch started his build.

[theLinks]

Re: Core 2-Way - Build Tread

I test fit the drivers, drilled for inserts and finished the light sanding of the veneer tonight. I am ready for stain. I thought I moving at a decent pace until Lunch started his build.

Funny stories, but if you need a boost, look at my progress. It may be springtime when I'm done. :D

[6thplanet]

Re: Core 2-Way - Build Tread

Lookin' good ! You must have a deciently heated place to work. (jelious) The winter came all to soon as now I'm back to waiting for better weather to get back to my project. Did you use a router to trim all the veneer? Thumbs up on your design...

[MrkCrwly]

Re: Core 2-Way - Build Tread

Lookin' good ! You must have a deciently heated place to work. (jelious) The winter came all to soon as now I'm back to waiting for better weather to get back to my project. Did you use a router to trim all the veneer? Thumbs up on your design...

I have 1/2 of my basement set up as a shop so weather is not an issue.
I use a standard flush trim router bit with a bearing in my router. I used Titebond II and not contact cement so I only had 1/8"-1/4" of veneer overhang making it a snap. I had blue painters tape on the side the bearing rides on so I had a little block sanding to make it completely flush.
Woodcraft had their WoodRiver router bits on sale last year and I bought a few key bits I use all the time for $5 each. I have been very pleased with their performance.

[MrkCrwly]

Re: Core 2-Way - Build Tread

Here is my RS28F crossover board layout. I will mount the board to the removable rear panel with standoffs. The solid lines are wires/leads on top of the board. Dashed lines are wires under the board. Blue dots are holes for zip ties to secure the components. Red "donuts" are holes for the component leads thru the board. All soldering will be on the back. Wires in and out will be secured where they come thru the board with Gorilla glue.
For the RS28A the 1 uf cap can be installed over (or under) the 6 ohm resistor. Paul's CO design included for reference.

[captainobvious99]

Re: Core 2-Way - Build Tread

I have 1/2 of my basement set up as a shop so weather is not an issue.
I use a standard flush trim router bit with a bearing in my router. I used Titebond II and not contact cement so I only had 1/8"-1/4" of veneer overhang making it a snap. I had blue painters tape on the side the bearing rides on so I had a little block sanding to make it completely flush.
Woodcraft had their WoodRiver router bits on sale last year and I bought a few key bits I use all the time for $5 each. I have been very pleased with their performance.

Did you use the flush trim around the speaker cutouts as well, or do that by hand?

Looks great! Nice veneering job. Im about to embark on my first attempt as well. hopefully it comes out as nice as yours. One question- Why wet the paper backing instead of just rolling on the glue on both substrate and veneer?

[MrkCrwly]

Re: Core 2-Way - Build Tread

Did you use the flush trim around the speaker cutouts as well, or do that by hand?

Looks great! Nice veneering job. Im about to embark on my first attempt as well. hopefully it comes out as nice as yours. One question- Why wet the paper backing instead of just rolling on the glue on both substrate and veneer?

Thanks. I used a standard flush edge trimmer and my Router Buddy. I left the speaker radius about 1/8" shy when I routed the recesses in the mdf. I did that so I would be cutting a little mdf when I trimmed the veneer. Probably not necessary but it did no harm either.
Why wet the paper backing? Good question. My thinking was to keep the paper from soaking up the moisture in the glue and extend the drying time since I rolled the glue on the veneer first, then the cabinet. Not sure if it helped but the process worked very well for me. The paper did not appear to take much water anyway.
Let me just say that I loved working with the paper backed veneer. The paper backing is tough and forgiving to work with. The edge line was a non issue for me bacause I used quarter sawn oak that has a tight vertical grain. The only downside I encountered using Titebond II wet was a couple of places where I didn't get the glue fully wiped or sanded off of the veneer and it showed up when I stained. Fortunately I was able to minimize (or hide) them with sanding and creative spot staining.

[MrkCrwly]

Re: Core 2-Way - Build Tread

I am winding down the speaker build and I am unclear about the depth of the port. I purchased one of PE's 2" ports without a flare. http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=260-387

The port size for the Amiga is 3 1/2" and includes a flare. The TRS 80 is listed as a 2 1/2" long without a flare. (I have no idea whether a flare would be included in the port length or not included?)

[Paul Carmody]

Re: Core 2-Way - Build Tread

Hmm... didn't realize I had changed the bass tuning. Geez, you guys are always pointing out my mistakes--you're like my students! ;)

I looked back over the simulations in Unibox. They're both OK, actually. 2.5" long will give a hint more low end boost, where the 3.5" is maybe just a bit rolled off. The difference is pretty slight, though. Do you have any way of trying both lengths, Mark?

[MrkCrwly]

Re: Core 2-Way - Build Tread

Hmm... didn't realize I had changed the bass tuning. Geez, you guys are always pointing out my mistakes--you're like my students! ;)

I looked back over the simulations in Unibox. They're both OK, actually. 2.5" long will give a hint more low end boost, where the 3.5" is maybe just a bit rolled off. The difference is pretty slight, though. Do you have any way of trying both lengths, Mark?

Don't see why not. The port I bought came with an outer sleeve to extend the port size. I could cut the main port piece to 2 1/2" long and size the out sleeve to add the 1". The port is right in front of my removable access panel so adding and removing the sleeve is a snap. I have a CO convertible for the 2 different tweets options and so it is a natural progression to have ports convertible for my woofs.

[MrkCrwly]

Re: Core 2-Way - Build Tread

Crossover built on 1/4" BB ply. Taped layout to the ply and used the drill press for zip tie and component holes. All connections are soldered on the underside of the CO. CO is installed on standoffs into the cabinet removable panel with theaded inserts. Wire in and out of CO are held to board with gorilla glue. Rear speaker bananna plug connections were a recent deal of the day.

[Soundslike]

Re: Core 2-Way - Build Tread

Mark,
I'm really, really, impressed with your wood-working skills, your artistic creativity, and the ingenuity evident everywhere throughout this build. Very nice work. I picked up a bunch of tips -- thanks for taking the time to document your build. You are a true speaker building artist..

Grasshopper


I'd love to hear your listening impressions...