Crossover built on 1/4" BB ply. Taped layout to the ply and used the drill press for zip tie and component holes. All connections are soldered on the underside of the CO. CO is installed on standoffs into the cabinet removable panel with theaded inserts. Wire in and out of CO are held to board with gorilla glue. Rear speaker bananna plug connections were a recent deal of the day.
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Core 2-Way - Build Tread
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Re: Core 2-Way - Build Tread
Crossover built on 1/4" BB ply. Taped layout to the ply and used the drill press for zip tie and component holes. All connections are soldered on the underside of the CO. CO is installed on standoffs into the cabinet removable panel with theaded inserts. Wire in and out of CO are held to board with gorilla glue. Rear speaker bananna plug connections were a recent deal of the day.
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Re: Core 2-Way - Build Tread
Originally posted by Paul Carmody View PostHmm... didn't realize I had changed the bass tuning. Geez, you guys are always pointing out my mistakes--you're like my students! ;)
I looked back over the simulations in Unibox. They're both OK, actually. 2.5" long will give a hint more low end boost, where the 3.5" is maybe just a bit rolled off. The difference is pretty slight, though. Do you have any way of trying both lengths, Mark?
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Re: Core 2-Way - Build Tread
Hmm... didn't realize I had changed the bass tuning. Geez, you guys are always pointing out my mistakes--you're like my students! ;)
I looked back over the simulations in Unibox. They're both OK, actually. 2.5" long will give a hint more low end boost, where the 3.5" is maybe just a bit rolled off. The difference is pretty slight, though. Do you have any way of trying both lengths, Mark?
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Re: Core 2-Way - Build Tread
I am winding down the speaker build and I am unclear about the depth of the port. I purchased one of PE's 2" ports without a flare. http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=260-387
The port size for the Amiga is 3 1/2" and includes a flare. The TRS 80 is listed as a 2 1/2" long without a flare. (I have no idea whether a flare would be included in the port length or not included?)
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Re: Core 2-Way - Build Tread
Originally posted by captainobvious99 View PostDid you use the flush trim around the speaker cutouts as well, or do that by hand?
Looks great! Nice veneering job. Im about to embark on my first attempt as well. hopefully it comes out as nice as yours. One question- Why wet the paper backing instead of just rolling on the glue on both substrate and veneer?
Why wet the paper backing? Good question. My thinking was to keep the paper from soaking up the moisture in the glue and extend the drying time since I rolled the glue on the veneer first, then the cabinet. Not sure if it helped but the process worked very well for me. The paper did not appear to take much water anyway.
Let me just say that I loved working with the paper backed veneer. The paper backing is tough and forgiving to work with. The edge line was a non issue for me bacause I used quarter sawn oak that has a tight vertical grain. The only downside I encountered using Titebond II wet was a couple of places where I didn't get the glue fully wiped or sanded off of the veneer and it showed up when I stained. Fortunately I was able to minimize (or hide) them with sanding and creative spot staining.
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Re: Core 2-Way - Build Tread
Originally posted by MrkCrwly View PostI have 1/2 of my basement set up as a shop so weather is not an issue.
I use a standard flush trim router bit with a bearing in my router. I used Titebond II and not contact cement so I only had 1/8"-1/4" of veneer overhang making it a snap. I had blue painters tape on the side the bearing rides on so I had a little block sanding to make it completely flush.
Woodcraft had their WoodRiver router bits on sale last year and I bought a few key bits I use all the time for $5 each. I have been very pleased with their performance.
Looks great! Nice veneering job. Im about to embark on my first attempt as well. hopefully it comes out as nice as yours. One question- Why wet the paper backing instead of just rolling on the glue on both substrate and veneer?
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Re: Core 2-Way - Build Tread
Here is my RS28F crossover board layout. I will mount the board to the removable rear panel with standoffs. The solid lines are wires/leads on top of the board. Dashed lines are wires under the board. Blue dots are holes for zip ties to secure the components. Red "donuts" are holes for the component leads thru the board. All soldering will be on the back. Wires in and out will be secured where they come thru the board with Gorilla glue.
For the RS28A the 1 uf cap can be installed over (or under) the 6 ohm resistor. Paul's CO design included for reference.
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Re: Core 2-Way - Build Tread
Originally posted by 6thplanet View PostLookin' good ! You must have a deciently heated place to work. (jelious) The winter came all to soon as now I'm back to waiting for better weather to get back to my project. Did you use a router to trim all the veneer? Thumbs up on your design...
I use a standard flush trim router bit with a bearing in my router. I used Titebond II and not contact cement so I only had 1/8"-1/4" of veneer overhang making it a snap. I had blue painters tape on the side the bearing rides on so I had a little block sanding to make it completely flush.
Woodcraft had their WoodRiver router bits on sale last year and I bought a few key bits I use all the time for $5 each. I have been very pleased with their performance.
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Re: Core 2-Way - Build Tread
Lookin' good ! You must have a deciently heated place to work. (jelious) The winter came all to soon as now I'm back to waiting for better weather to get back to my project. Did you use a router to trim all the veneer? Thumbs up on your design...
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Re: Core 2-Way - Build Tread
Originally posted by MrkCrwly View PostI test fit the drivers, drilled for inserts and finished the light sanding of the veneer tonight. I am ready for stain. I thought I moving at a decent pace until Lunch started his build.
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Re: Core 2-Way - Build Tread
Originally posted by Dave_W View PostHow are these coming along?
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Re: Core 2-Way - Build Tread
How are these coming along?
I'm very interested in building a pair of these. I like the idea of paring the RS28 with a big midrange speaker. Not to mention my linear mind likes the ridiculous idea of having all the speakers be the same brand :D
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Re: Core 2-Way - Build Tread
So you two (Mark /Paul) am I the only one that always makes a removable back or panel? ;)
Originally posted by MrkCrwly View PostI also learned how much harder it is to patch the foam inside thru a speaker hole than it was without a baffle. Gotta thank Undef for using a 7 incher on this design.
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Re: Core 2-Way - Build Tread
Originally posted by MrkCrwly View PostThanks everyone. I appreciate the comments.
I learned an important tip last night. When drilling thru the cabinet that has foam on the back, don't drill into the foam. Especially when your drill is set to high speed going full tilt. It tried its darnest to pull the entire matress pad thru the 1/8" hole.
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