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Thanks. This speaker will be decidedly less interesting to look at, as it will be buried in the AV cabinet and have a grill over it for baby-proofing reasons.
With the rear port and the HT/equipment table you linked at the beginning having a closed back, will you be opening the cabinet back to allow the port output out?
Otherwise, it would seem to need to be front ported or will the center channel be placed on top of the cabinet?
With the rear port and the HT/equipment table you linked at the beginning having a closed back, will you be opening the cabinet back to allow the port output out?
Otherwise, it would seem to need to be front ported or will the center channel be placed on top of the cabinet?
Andy.
The back of the shelf is not sealed... there's a substantial gap for running wires, etc.
Here I trimmed the tweeter flange with a dremel tool...
Then I cut out notches for the tweeter terminals, again with the dremel tool...
Drilling the pilot holes...
Now, finally, my favorite part: dry fitting the drivers. I've never done a trimmed flange before, so seeing this come out well was a big relief...
I use this opportunity to mark the location of pilot holes for the screws. I'm done with h-nuts. Had one spin on me recently. Using plain old black wood screws this time...
Pilot hole locations marked...
Drilling the pilot holes...
Time to glue the baffle on. One trick I like is to start with just two clamps... lightly tightened, but still loose enough so that I can slide the piece around until it's exactly where I want it...
Then I tighten those two clamps, and add a bunch more, paying particular attention to where the braces are...
Here's a tip for you. The next time you want to trim a tweeter faceplate, cutout the tweeter mounting hole first and mount just the faceplate on your baffle. Then, when you cut the recess for the woofer, you will also cut the tweeter faceplate with a perfect finish! Attached is one that I did with my router. You could even do metal faceplates with your mill.
Here's a tip for you. The next time you want to trim a tweeter faceplate, cutout the tweeter mounting hole first and mount just the faceplate on your baffle. Then, when you cut the recess for the woofer, you will also cut the tweeter faceplate with a perfect finish! Attached is one that I did with my router. You could even do metal faceplates with your mill.
Clever! But it would seriously complicate the mounting of the baffle on the mill, because of the thickness of the tweeter.
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