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so, if you can draw it, you can cut it? those braces are wicked.
" To me, the soundstage presentation is more about phase and distortion and less about size. However, when you talk about bass extension, there's no replacement for displacement". Tyger23. 4.2015
Quote Originally Posted by hongrn. Oct 2014
Do you realize that being an American is like winning the biggest jackpot ever??
Basically, yes. There are a couple of limitations, but if I can draw it, I can cut it. For example: I typically use a 1/4" end mill, so any inside corners have to have at least a 1/8" radius. Also, super intricate design with thin sections are prone to breaking out, although I doubt any speaker cabinets would have this issue.
Thanks for the compliment on the braces. I spent a couple of hours last night laying those out...
My thought was that it would be best to do the round overs after the cabinet is constructed to account for any misalignment during construction.
Do your panels incorporate rabbet joints or just bu++ joints? What is your preferred format for information transfer for custom cabinets - drawings, written description, CAD, etc.?
Dan,
THe cabinets I've been describing use regular bu++ joints. I can do rabbets. I built the cabinets for my ZA5.2's like that. Although I'm not sure it's worth the effort. I don't plan to do it for anything else I build for myself. I think good quality glue along with a brad-nailer is just as fast and strong. It also keeps the cost down since there is less machine time.
I can pretty much handle the design however you want. However if I had my preference CAD drawings would be first, followed by a sketch with dimensions on it, and then a written description. It seems that the more specific things are the less opportunity for errors in translation there are. This goes for more than speaker cabinets...
Do your panels incorporate rabbet joints or just bu++ joints? What is your preferred format for information transfer for custom cabinets - drawings, written description, CAD, etc.?
Finger joints and dovetails are actually really difficult to do on a flatbed CNC. The problem is that the cutter leaves a round corner in the joint so it doesn't fit tight. The workaround to that in a box joint is to use dog-bone corners, but that presents a problem for speakers in that there are now two little gaps in each joint. Not so good for speakers.
You can also set up a jig to hold the piece on end so the cutter leaves square corners, but its not something I anticipate setting up anytime soon.
Those finger joints were cut on a laser machine which doesn't have those problems.
why do you pocket cut your through cuts for the drivers. That creates a lot more dust and time
What g-code software are you using? I run sheetcam on mine
You running mach3?
Whats your max IMP for cut and job? Just curious as i built my own cnc a few yrs back
I used to cut a lot of stuff for guys on here, but i cant keep up with the car audio side of my orders even, and the home audio always takes more time
That will be the last time I pocket something that large. I usually do pocketing for smaller cutouts since then I don't have to worry about holding the leftover part in place. Your right though, the large cutouts just take forever and create a lot of dust.
I use CAMBAM to generate my g-code. I also use Mach3, seems to be very popular for the PC/machine control crowd.
My IPM depends on what I'm cutting. For Ply and MDF I rough and profile at 120IPM with a depth of cut from 3/16" to 1/4". My finish passes are usually .050" and 60IPM. It keeps any deflection under control and gives a nice smooth finish. I could rapid close to 200 IPM, but it really doesn't get me anything with this sort of cutting.
Good luck with the CNC, I've been having fun with mine. It's a hobby that has turned into more projects and hobbies!
ive been running mine for abotu 3 yrs now. Its a lot of work to keep her running. I swithced over to rack and pinion drives for the x axis.
I also run a 3.5hp PC router, but may go to a smaller router after i burn this one up
Whats your cutting area? i have abiut 30" x 56"
Also, in the center cutouts, no need to hold them in place, they may move a little after they are free, but only every rear once in a while will one bounce out of the hole
Check out my website: www.uberstealthaudio.com.
Now offering cnc cut baffles and other speaker cabinet parts
ive been running mine for abotu 3 yrs now. Its a lot of work to keep her running. I swithced over to rack and pinion drives for the x axis.
I also run a 3.5hp PC router, but may go to a smaller router after i burn this one up
Whats your cutting area? i have abiut 30" x 56"
Also, in the center cutouts, no need to hold them in place, they may move a little after they are free, but only every rear once in a while will one bounce out of the hole
Thanks for the tip on the cutouts, it will save some time.
I use a Hitachi M12VC in mine. I like it a lot. It's quiet, has a 6 year warranty, and it's cheap!
Cutting area on the machine is ~50"x100". I built it to handle a 49"x97" piece of MDF.
I have a R&P on my x as well, I haven;t touched it since it started running. I use screw drives on the Y and Z. The Z doesn't give me any problems. The y axis though I'm constantly fighting dust on the screws and have had the motor couplers come loose on me a couple of times. Switching to R&P on the Y is a high priority,
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