Buyout Transducers

[1100xxben]

Re: Buyout Transducers

Turns out that the last order of Polyswitches I got from Erse were the exact same part (WH 60 65).

By the way, if you would rather use fuses to protect your drivers. I believe the formula is A = SQRT(P*Z), where A = ampacity of fuse, P = wattage of driver, and Z = driver impedence. This is as best as I can recall from an old speaker building book.

Close, I = SQRT(P/Z) (where I = current rating of fuse).

[rogoll]

Re: Buyout Transducers

Turns out that the last order of Polyswitches I got from Erse were the exact same part (WH 60 65).

By the way, if you would rather use fuses to protect your drivers. I believe the formula is A = SQRT(P*Z), where A = ampacity of fuse, P = wattage of driver, and Z = driver impedence. This is as best as I can recall from an old speaker building book.

[1100xxben]

Re: Buyout Transducers

Aint Google wonderful? Here's a datasheet listing the specs on the WH 60 065 "polyswitch" (although these are some other brand, I believe). As best as I can tell (electronics school was many, many years ago...), these are rated to provide protection for 10 watt devices, which would correspond with the rating listed on PE's product page. Mystery solved.:D

I'm not quite sure where you're attaining the 10 watt rating. The parts are resettable fuses which "trip" at a spec'd current (0.65-1.3A in this case). If you're looking for another part, try this one. If the 065 is your original part, then that part is spec'd the same for on-resistance and trip current. It's also rated at a higher voltage, so it should be safe to use.

[violaplayer]

Re: Buyout Transducers

Sorry guys I stand corrected. I just pulled them out of the closet to check. You are absolutely right.

[rogoll]

Re: Buyout Transducers

Aint Google wonderful? Here's a datasheet listing the specs on the WH 60 065 "polyswitch" (although these are some other brand, I believe). As best as I can tell (electronics school was many, many years ago...), these are rated to provide protection for 10 watt devices, which would correspond with the rating listed on PE's product page. Mystery solved.:D

[rogoll]

Re: Buyout Transducers

I'm pretty sure that it's a polyswitch. I have several polyswitches of various values and the construction is identical. These are a little too "glossy" to be ceramic caps. Also, the leads can be seen extending onto the sides under the glossy exterior, as on other polyswitches.

I should have posted a link to the single driver version, as someone else did. You can't see this component on the pictures of the dual version shown on the PE product page (it's on the back side of the units pictured).

[KevinN]

Re: Buyout Transducers

Does anyone know what the small brownish-orange disk on the buyout transducers are. Anyone know for sure? BTW, is the electrolytic cap on the paired set a 0.5 uF?

Thanks,
Leonard

It is indeed a polyswitch. Both pairs that I purchased are inaccessible right now, but I believe the electrolytic cap is 100 uF. I bypassed both of them with a blob of solder in my application.

[violaplayer]

Re: Buyout Transducers

When you get a pair you get a HP and a LP . One has an e-cap and the other gets the ceramic.

[violaplayer]

Re: Buyout Transducers

That's actually a ceramic cap. We are talking a budget item here. Those drivers are fun to play with.

[critofur]

Re: Buyout Transducers

Strange, that's not shown as being on there in the first picture:

[Kapton Planet]

Re: Buyout Transducers

Looks like a polyswitch to me.

[killa]

Re: Buyout Transducers

the thing by the red wire? looks like a cap for a highpass filter to me.

[edlafontaine]

Re: Buyout Transducers

If you are asking about the thing which appears to have pleats in it ... a coil spider.

[critofur]

Re: Buyout Transducers

I don't see it - are you talking about the spider?

[ocool_15]

Re: Buyout Transducers

They are basically like a speaker without a cone. Same basic coil in magnetic gap design. You just glue the device to a radiating surface.