Face-Swap! Tweeters will get transplant...

[Wolf]

Re: Face-Swap! Tweeters will get transplant...

They currently look like this:



I have yet to fiddle with the tuning, as maybe it's higher than modeled, and I want to verify it. After that, I'll likely paint them and call them done after the badges are applied.

Thanks you for the compliments, Jon! It's a minimal toe-in design, as it still requires a bit.

Paul- If only you knew how long it took me to think of it!!! ;) I wasn't even sure it would work, so I got lucky!! :D Thanks!

Later,
Wolf

[Jon Richard]

Re: Face-Swap! Tweeters will get transplant...

One of the issues I'm having on how to decide what design to choose for my first DIY project is how to get the right toe in and not have rectangular skewed speakers looking out of place in my living room. This is a great culmination of form and function.

If and when you get to the point of wanting to address the mounting issues with the Airborne driver I'd like to follow along or even help if I can. I am certain that these are going to be absolutely stunning upon completion.

[Paul Carmody]

Re: Alright- How I did it....

Jig:


Post-cut:

Great work! Score another one for Wolf in the "Why didn't I think of that" category.

[Wolf]

Alright- How I did it....

Jig:


Post-cut:


Cutout:


Rear of baffle after first cut:


Finished baffle:


Final xover sim:


Final xover schematic:


Xover layout- ignore 5.6uF Solen cap. Some values are changed, but positions are the same:


Later,
Wolf

[Wolf]

Re: Face-Swap! Tweeters will get transplant...

Stinky's done some work for me before, so I'm sure he can get it done right.

I'll post pics of the naked-MDF build after MWAF, so you will see the issues at hand.

Not bugging at all!
Wolf

[Jon Richard]

Re: Face-Swap! Tweeters will get transplant...

Stinky- I may have to take you up on that! I think that would be slick.

A ring having a recess on the side facing the frame from the I.D to about the middle of the mounting holes that is a few thousanths shollower than the thickness of the surround would sit perfectly flat while transfering all the clamping force to the frame and provide an airtight seal.

I just keep thinking if Mr. Brown is willing to ablige how well this would work both functionally and aestetically. It would really set these drivers off clear coated with a sandblasted texture and black oxide button head allen cap screws, or maybe acorn nuts to match the phase plug.

Sorry if I'm bugging, speaker porn works up the uninitiated as well. I'll go back to lurk mode and await pics.

[Wolf]

Re: Face-Swap! Tweeters will get transplant...

It's about turning and even-pressure at the same time. The turn pulls it, and the pressure makes the 'hills'. A seemingly more-even/larger-radius pressure around the screw with less tension and no-turn is what is currently working.

Stinky- I may have to take you up on that! I think that would be slick.

I'm in a bit of limbo with onboard video right now, so I could be in/out for a week or so. My fan on the GPU died, and I am hoping the processor is still okay. I likely have to get an aftermarket 'cooler', and it's not a rare problem with the model I own...

So- holding steady for the moment, and these will go to MWAF, even if I'm cut down to one entry.

Later,
Wolf

[Wolf]

Re: ARGH!! Screws/surround issues.... Remedied??

Well, there's always something like this:
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=260-340

I thought about those too, but the faceted baffle does not lend well to that solution.

The finishing washers are still holding well, without detrimental hills or unseals.
Later,
Wolf

[Jeff B.]

Re: Face-Swap! Tweeters will get transplant...

Wolf, Let me know if you need a nice aluminum ring machined.

OR, I just had a brain storm... Is it possible to use a threw hole instead of a threaded hole, and use a machine thread screw with a nut tightened from behind.
That way all the turning tension is placed against the back of the baffle, holding the driver in place, as opposed to the screw holding the turning tension against the driver frame/surround. maybe?

I was thinking about that too. That's the way the woofers in my Continuums are mounted.

[Jeff B.]

Re: ARGH!! Screws/surround issues.... Remedied??

Well- I tried the radial cuts, and that didn't work.

I tried the square nuts as washers, and whil it didn't pull, it applied a lot of pressure and had equal 'hills' to either side of the mounting when tight.

I also got some 'finishing washers' after seeing them on the original Aviatrix from Wayne/Curt. I think these will do the job. The washer doesn't get turned as it's so light and smooth, and it clamps a wider area than the other methods. I'll know tomorrow if the surround starts to release again, but no hills present with just enough tension to keep it securely mounted.

Crossing the fingers!!

Thanks everyone!
Wolf

Well, there's always something like this:

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=260-340

[Thomas Brown]

Re: Face-Swap! Tweeters will get transplant...

Wolf, Let me know if you need a nice aluminum ring machined.

OR, I just had a brain storm... Is it possible to use a threw hole instead of a threaded hole, and use a machine thread screw with a nut tightened from behind.
That way all the turning tension is placed against the back of the baffle, holding the driver in place, as opposed to the screw holding the turning tension against the driver frame/surround. maybe?

[LouC]

Re: ARGH!! Screws/surround issues.... Ideas??

Any other thoughts?
Wolf

Silicone the driver to a backer board (or to the baffle). Then mount the backer board from the rear of the baffle. (Or cut the silicone if you glue directly to the baffle)

I had a pair SpeakerLab 30's with the woofers silicone glued to the baffle. They lasted 15 years. It took 10 minutes with an exacto knife to remove them.

[Jon Richard]

Re: Face-Swap! Tweeters will get transplant...

It's hard to tell from the pic, but it looks possible to cut a washer in half having a 60/ 40 split. Use the larger half with a notch in the back toward the frame lip like before to prevent it from turning but if there is enough meat there even if the washer is only partialy under the screw head it should only apply pressure to the frame.

The idea is to have something under the screw but only contacting the area between the edge of the surround and the lip. Kinda like a shim. http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-shims/=d0q4e0

[Wolf]

Re: ARGH!! Screws/surround issues.... Remedied??

Well- I tried the radial cuts, and that didn't work.

I tried the square nuts as washers, and whil it didn't pull, it applied a lot of pressure and had equal 'hills' to either side of the mounting when tight.

I also got some 'finishing washers' after seeing them on the original Aviatrix from Wayne/Curt. I think these will do the job. The washer doesn't get turned as it's so light and smooth, and it clamps a wider area than the other methods. I'll know tomorrow if the surround starts to release again, but no hills present with just enough tension to keep it securely mounted.

Crossing the fingers!!

Thanks everyone!
Wolf

[Wolf]

Re: Face-Swap! Tweeters will get transplant...

Thanks for the further notes...

I just got off the phone with Jeff B, and he said to slit the surround radially and it will spread out upon mounting. I'll give that a shot first....

...then I'll go to Ace to see about some squarewashers if it doesn't work out.

I may contact you after the event if I don't think I like the more recent aesthetics.

Thanks a lot everyone!!
Later,
Wolf