Finishing Raw Bubinga?

[cowtown]

Hi All,
I'm working on my first try at "raw" veneer - Bubinga with no paper backing. I've used LouC's tutorial and contact-cement method to lay down all the veneer, and am pretty happy with how it went (this is going on a modified-cabinet Tarkus build - the thread is here: http://techtalk.parts-express.com/sh...d.php?t=224521 ).

For finishing, I want to bring out the pattern of the wood without darkening it any more than necessary, then give it a shiny, hard seal that is smooth to the touch. I've read that there is some danger of damaging the DAP contact cement if I pick the wrong products.

I've read that Zinzer Dewaxed Shellac cut with denatered alcohol will bring out the grain. I have this on hand, is this a good start, or is there a better way to go? Is wipe-on oil-based poly a good topper for the Shellac?

Is there a step-by-step list of how to go about this, like 1) sand to 250 2)shellac 3)sand to ... 4)coat with poly 5)sand to ... ?

Any help at all is really appreciated. Thanks,
Colin


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[edlafontaine]

Re: Finishing Raw Bubinga?

Bubinga has an open pore structure. You can seal the wood and some pore "divots" will remain. I don't consider those objectionable. YMMV.

I used sanding sealer, rubbed out with 280 grit. This effectively fills a lot of the pores. I then applied a lacquer finish with 320 grit used between the first coats, moving to 400, then the final coat.

[Dave_W]

Re: Finishing Raw Bubinga?

You may also want to consider an application of boiled linseed oil. I've had good luck with it on QSWO and mahogony. It doesn't do much to the color, but it really makes the grain and figure "pop". After the BLO you can proceed to the shellac and whatever else... You may want to test it first to see if you like it.

EDIT:

If I were finishing those cabinets I would sand with 220 or 320 then wipe on two thin coats of boiled linseed oil. I would follow it up with two or 3 coats of shellac. I would do a light sand with 320, I always end up with a little bit of schmutz by this point and that light sand takes it out. For durability I would top-coat with gloss polyurethane, at least two layers. If you want something less shiny you could top the gloss with a satin poly or something like that. THe reason to use gloss underneath is that the non-gloss poly's have an additive to keep the gloss down. The additive can create a cloudy finish adter several layers.

I've never done any polishing or waxing, but others here can probably weigh in on those techniques since it can give a different finish.

Your best bet is to test some different techniques on some scrap pieces and see what you like.

[bendaniels]

Re: Finishing Raw Bubinga?

Maybe some Maloof oil? Worked well for me on some Bubinga stave shells.

[fastbike1]

Re: Finishing Raw Bubinga?

Waterlox. We've talked about this before.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HqiLQvJmvxQ&feature=player_embedded

[mgrabow]

Re: Finishing Raw Bubinga?

Bubinga is one of my favorite woods.




Here is my step by step.


1) sand and blow out the grain with a compressor. (why blow out? see step 4)

2)Thinned dewaxed shellac

3) sand with a fine paper. finer than 220 would be better. Blow out grain.

4) fill grain with dark brown pour-o-pac grain filler. You can play games with sanding sealers (also knows as shellac) but if you really want the grain to be filled, use a grain filler. Oil based... You blow out the grain to give it good adhesion. The wash coat of shellac will bring out the gold in the grain and protect the wood from soaking up the dark color of the grain filler.

5) sand with 220 and work up to 320. Wipe down with mineral spirits and see if you have filled all the grain.

6)I agree with the sam maloof poly oil or any poly oil finish. I prefer General Finishes "Arm-R-Seal" you will never ever get a bubble with this like you will with a straight poly. Can be wipped on, brushed on, sprayed on. It can be rubbed out like a car after two weeks or my favorite....rub it out with 0000 steel wool then wax it down with a clear bri wax...

[bendaniels]

Re: Finishing Raw Bubinga?

Geez - you just reminded me. I used waterlox on my bubinga drums. It was the walnut on which I used maloof.

This is Waterlox on Bubinga and BE Maple...

Waterlox. We've talked about this before.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HqiLQ...layer_embedded

[cowtown]

Re: Finishing Raw Bubinga?

Thanks everyone for the information. I'm a rank amateur at working with exotic woods.

Mgrabow, your picture sold me. Just stunning. If I can get a smooth finish that is half that glossy I will be happy. Thank you for laying out the steps so clearly.

I was not aware of paste grain fillers. It looks like we can't get the Pour-O-Pac shipped to CA due to "air quality restrictions" so I'll have to call around locally.

Thanks!

[mgrabow]

Re: Finishing Raw Bubinga?

Thanks everyone for the information. I'm a rank amateur at working with exotic woods.

Mgrabow, your picture sold me. Just stunning. If I can get a smooth finish that is half that glossy I will be happy. Thank you for laying out the steps so clearly.

I was not aware of paste grain fillers. It looks like we can't get the Pour-O-Pac shipped to CA due to "air quality restrictions" so I'll have to call around locally.

Thanks!

Find any oil based dark filler. I used the water based and it is junk...


I like that finish because you can buy the high gloss ans if after you do the coats it looks too wavy or points out some flaw, then instead of buffing it out like a car, hit it with steel wool and wax and go semigloss...


Your veneer work is great....


One hint on that finish if you select it. You can spray it on but you will likely need to wet sand out any orange peal. I use a cheap foam brush and do one coat on one side at a time. Each day I rotate it and always do the side facing up. It will lat flat as glass and if any drips on the side just wipe it off...Start with the bottom, then the sides, then the top.


The other finishes mentioned are great for that hand run look and I highly recommend all of them...