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Re: "Trichotomy"- Progress...
Well- turns out I didn't account enough for the thickness of the panels when used in a triangular box. I'm glad I made the cabinet taller for this reason alone, but it also means that the xover will have less headroom. I have an idea to fix that issue, so I should still be ahead of the game on construction- more on that later, and I get to use my 1" RO bit! I also will implement another idea I had in the last couple days to give the port-exit a roundover, even though its outside the box.
So, since Photobucket is now cooperating, here's what I have so far. I have the other cab ready to glue up, so it'll follow suit shortly.
First off- the JIG!! There was no other way to cut the 30 deg angle cuts and have them straight, so I made a jig, and they are very straight!!!
Set the blade to 29.5 deg to keep the gap from happening gluing the miters up, and cut with maybe a 1/32" left on the edge to smooth out post glue-up.
A couple strap-clamps, and it was all done.
The port wasn't as easy as first thought. I used a 1-7/8" Forstner bit to bore, which is a hair tight for the sched-40 PVC 1.5" pipe. First cut kinda tore at the edge, but after it flattened out I was able to slowly bore it a hole. I used a dremel and the 'tungsten wood-shaping wheel' (second pic below) bit to remove excess material and allow it a snug fit all the way through.
Some more good news- the D5G will fit in the box without any modifications. If it'd been recessed, I'd have to cut some reliefs in the side panels to get it to rest on the baffle easily.
Thanks for looking!
Wolf
Well- turns out I didn't account enough for the thickness of the panels when used in a triangular box. I'm glad I made the cabinet taller for this reason alone, but it also means that the xover will have less headroom. I have an idea to fix that issue, so I should still be ahead of the game on construction- more on that later, and I get to use my 1" RO bit! I also will implement another idea I had in the last couple days to give the port-exit a roundover, even though its outside the box.
So, since Photobucket is now cooperating, here's what I have so far. I have the other cab ready to glue up, so it'll follow suit shortly.
First off- the JIG!! There was no other way to cut the 30 deg angle cuts and have them straight, so I made a jig, and they are very straight!!!
Set the blade to 29.5 deg to keep the gap from happening gluing the miters up, and cut with maybe a 1/32" left on the edge to smooth out post glue-up.
A couple strap-clamps, and it was all done.
The port wasn't as easy as first thought. I used a 1-7/8" Forstner bit to bore, which is a hair tight for the sched-40 PVC 1.5" pipe. First cut kinda tore at the edge, but after it flattened out I was able to slowly bore it a hole. I used a dremel and the 'tungsten wood-shaping wheel' (second pic below) bit to remove excess material and allow it a snug fit all the way through.
Some more good news- the D5G will fit in the box without any modifications. If it'd been recessed, I'd have to cut some reliefs in the side panels to get it to rest on the baffle easily.
Thanks for looking!
Wolf
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