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...Could you also provide the crossover diagram for the tweeter?
I used a crossover that Pete Schumacher suggested for use in another multi-woofer, single tweeter line array using the same DX25 tweeter. See the thread that's linked below and scroll down until you find post #15, by Pete, with a crossover schematic:
Are you going to continue developing these, or do you think the project is worth the effort? ...do you think the open baffle design is the best approach, from an acoustic standpoint? Do the AudioFred Sony Frugal Arrays produce the benefits the open baffle devotees describe, to any significant degree?
I doubt anybody bought the Sony buyout drivers because they were their first choice for some design. Most people probably saw the 69 cent price and thought, like I did, "At that price I'll order a case, then I'll decide what to do with them".
To answer your first question, yes, I definitely think the project is worth the effort as long as you recognize that no amount of time or spending with these drivers is going to give you a "reference quality" speaker. You should plan to spend the least amount possible on everything. It would not be cost effective to use an expensive tweeter, boutique caps, or even a box enclosure. These were fun to build and with only a front baffle and a base, they involved very little work. I have a fairly complete woodshop, but if you're ok with not recessing the tweeter they could be build using only a circular saw, a skil saw and an electric drill.
The open back design was motivated by laziness and frugality rather than by some idea that an open back would sound better than a box. I suspect a sealed box with a subwoofer would sound better, but that would require a second sheet of mdf plus lots more time. I question whether it would be worth the time, and it would blow your budget. However, they do offer many of the advantages of a line array and of an open back speaker.
I plan to play these for both of my groups of friends, musicians and audiophiles. I know the musicians will love them. My Houston Audio Society audiophile friends will acknowledge "they sound good for what they are". Both groups will be correct based on their reference standards for good sound.
Thanks for the thorough reply -- you've described my interest in these projects utilizing the Sony buyouts very well. I was intrigued by the idea that one could purchase these by the case for so little money, even though I knew they wouldn't be capable of anything even approaching audiophile performance. I was convinced that others with more design knowledge than I would also be intrigued, and that there would likely be several designs emerging from the minds and shops of DIY'ers. A line array should be a great learning project, as long as it demonstrates what is achieved by a line array configuration. The open baffle design also promises to be educational. We always hope for great performance, sometimes unrealistically, but they don't have to be great to be worth doing in my opinion. So, I hope you'll continue to post your observations -- I, and I'm sure many others, find them very interesting. Thanks again...
Thats an expensive tweet for those varmint targets.......
These tweeters are 1" domes and should be used only by expert marksmen. If you hit them at 300 yards she will be impressed. If you miss she will know that all you have is a little tweeter. :D
Fred your timing is perfect! At least for me. I'm working on a concave LA using 9 of the Sony's with a round waveguide/horn in the middle (almost) of the front board. The top and bottom panels tilt in at 5 degrees and hold 3 of the Sony's. The center has 3 sonys and the round horn (second hole down from top of center panel)
Here are a couple of pics of the frontboard. I saw a website where a guy used the 4" Pioneer NSB's from a few years back and had a very narrow "center frontboard" with adjustable "wings" (1 x 12" pine boards on both sides of the motorboard. I'm considering trying that approach with these. The mid board is 8" wide (only one side has been flush trimmed to match the concave shape in the photos) I'm thinking I can attach the frontboard to the "wings" with a door or piano hinge and a winf width of 12" and see what happens. I've got some Pyle and Klipsch 1 3/8" screw on compression drivers that I plan on trying with a lot of padding. Appreciate any comments from the forum.
Oh yeah, handy tip - if you want to paint the ugly metal frames go to Dollar Tree and see if you can find some large (1' tall) plastic containers with a plastic screw on top (blue). The top fits perfectly over the cone and you can paint the frame black to improve appearance. I used black truck bed liner from Auto Zone or Advance Auto parts.
I've read where these OB need to be set away from the back wall by about three feet. Thanks.
Sorry I didn't explain very well. The side pieces will be cut flush with the baffle front and rounded over. Just did that tonight. I veneered the front with birdseye maple and used sapele on the side frames.
Here's a link to the website using OB and the NSB's. I'm planning on using the adjustable side wings on mine and possibly stacking on yet to be built sub box.
Wanted to do a BUMP on this thread, My bud and I have 96 of these woofers coming tomorrow. I honest to god dont know why, but for .69, I dont know why not either.
I was thinking about a 4-6 zone music fill system for the garage/game room. Each would require a tweeter for this, if I get around to that.
Then I know I am going to do a crude, unscientific horizontal above the garage doors 8Mx8M line arrays (are they still considered and array if they are horizontal?) with the last of my 1-1/8 silkies so I dont use them in my next "nice project"
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