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Dilemma: 18W/4531G repair?

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  • Dilemma: 18W/4531G repair?

    Ok so the story goes..

    I bought a pair of used Revelators and I tested them to verify they worked. Plans changed (like always) and I ended up selling that same pair a week or two later. When I was packing them, I started on one of them and I got it packed and started moving it around and I heard the most dreadful sound: clinking inside the motor...

    So I unpack the one I packed, exercise the cone a little bit and sure enough the copper shorting ring came loose under the dustcap.

    Now, I managed to successfully remove the dustcap without damaging it or the Revelator cone - is there any way I can resecure the shorting ring with a very strong epoxy that won't give way lightly? The copper ring was just on top of the pole piece.

    Some pictures to illustrate..




  • #2
    Re: Dilemma: 18W/4531G repair?

    Don't see why you couldn't epoxy that back into place. It's not a moving part, so it's not going to have any stress on it. Probably just wasn't glued properly to begin with.
    Vapor Audio

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    • #3
      Re: Dilemma: 18W/4531G repair?

      Be sure to insert a coiled paper sleeve between the voice coil and the magnet/shorting ring/epoxy to prevent any excess epoxy from fouling up the works...
      Mongo only pawn in game of life
      ____
      Ed

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      • #4
        Re: Dilemma: 18W/4531G repair?

        Ok so it won't be any issue. Anyone know any decent epoxy for this? CA glue maybe?

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        • #5
          Re: Dilemma: 18W/4531G repair?

          Glue recommendations?

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          • #6
            Re: Dilemma: 18W/4531G repair?

            I'll bite. Epoxy doesn't really stick well to metal in my experience. I would use construction adhesive that sets fairly hard. Clean the ring and pole piece carefully with alcohol or some type of degreaser. Carefully with a Q-tip. I would also scotch brite that copper ring. Use a small paint brush to apply the construction adhesive over the ring as it sits in its proper place. Use a piece of paper as Ed suggested to keep the glue off the cone assembly. Use just enough adhesive to hold the ring down to the pole piece securely.

            That's how I would do it. Be sure to let the buyer know of your repair.

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            • #7
              Re: Dilemma: 18W/4531G repair?

              I'm not going to sell them - I refunded the guy and I am just going to make them into a pair of MT speakers

              JB weld work or would someone advise something different?

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              • #8
                Re: Dilemma: 18W/4531G repair?

                One more thing, some construction adhesives have pretty nasty fumes. I would leave the dustcap off until the stuff has fully set. Strong fumes could cause something else to let go in the speaker.

                Any quick setting epoxy would probably work ok. I think construction adhesive is tackier and would work better.

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                • #9
                  Re: Dilemma: 18W/4531G repair?

                  This might sound obvious but why not e-mail Scan Speak and ask them what type of glue they use. If that fails I would use epoxy sparingly. JB weld is probably too thick.

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                  • #10
                    Re: Dilemma: 18W/4531G repair?

                    LOL e-mailed Scan Speak and here is the response:

                    Originally posted by Scan Speak Rep
                    Hello,
                    Thank you for your mail. Sorry, but we cannot help you as we never inform which materials we are using in our production.

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                    • #11
                      Re: Dilemma: 18W/4531G repair?

                      Originally posted by raiderone View Post
                      This might sound obvious but why not e-mail Scan Speak and ask them what type of glue they use. If that fails I would use epoxy sparingly. JB weld is probably too thick.
                      Ok. I'll probably use something like CA glue and very sparingly with a shim around the pole piece so avoid getting any on the former. Anyone got any ideas to clean the top of the pole piece? :o

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                      • #12
                        Re: Dilemma: 18W/4531G repair?

                        Have you spoken to Madisound?
                        "He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche

                        http://www.diy-ny.com/

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                        • #13
                          Re: Dilemma: 18W/4531G repair?

                          This is probably stating the obvious, but don't forget to remove the paper sleeve shortly after the ring is in place...or you'll have an even greater problem to deal with! :o

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                          • #14
                            Re: Dilemma: 18W/4531G repair?

                            Originally posted by jamikkim View Post
                            This is probably stating the obvious, but don't forget to remove the paper sleeve shortly after the ring is in place...or you'll have an even greater problem to deal with! :o
                            Lol.. yeah I know. I was planning to have the shim in there, apply epoxy/whatever, press ring down, move shim clockwise while pulling it out slightly so it pulls off the excess (if any).

                            Originally posted by Face View Post
                            Have you spoken to Madisound?
                            That I have not and for whatever reason, overlooked this. :o

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                            • #15
                              Re: Dilemma: 18W/4531G repair?

                              Originally posted by its_bacon12 View Post
                              Ok. I'll probably use something like CA glue and very sparingly with a shim around the pole piece so avoid getting any on the former. Anyone got any ideas to clean the top of the pole piece? :o
                              A "straight" CA glue might be too thin and grabs instantly- you won't have time to position the ring. Perhaps a gel type that is slower setting. Use sparingly.

                              AFA removal of old glue, I would block the gap and try to scrape away most of it, then q-tip with acetone.

                              LOL on SS's response. I can understand that a company would want to protect proprietary manufacturing techniques, but a failed joint seems to be their fault in application.

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