I recsently buffed out my mother in laws black Corvette and had some product left. I have been wanting to see if I could wet sand and buff pour on epoxy.
Here is a pic from an attempt last year. I wet sanded these to get the lines from were I poured the side panel to meet the front panel. I sanded the edge down with 400 then sanded the whole box with I think 1200. I tried hand buffing with some stuff I had around and this is the result. Not so good.

This morning for the heck of it I took the box up to my shop and buffed with Finish Cut I got from my auto paint store. Then buffed with Deep Chrystal Paint Cleaner. Both I used the pad on the left. I then finished with Carnauba wax and the pad on the right.

Finished product.

Notice how the finish looks like it has brush marks in it. That is actually the grain of the Baltic Birch raised from moisture I believe. Now for those that wont use MDF because of the seams showing. Take a look at this end grain. These boxes were skimmed with body putty to take out the imperfections. You can clearly see the end grain of the plywood in the round over.

Here is a link to the album that shows pics of the experiment on the boxes. This was done as I was doing the MDF seam test boxes that are in my signature below.
Not trying to stir up the "Bu tt Joint" argument again. Just wanted to share.
Now that I know that the pour on epoxy can be sanded and buffed this opens up a lot of opportunities for an inexperienced painter to do a piano finish. I used the pour on epoxy on my Rock It Speakers and really liked the finish other then some of the edges were the pours met. I now know I can wet sand them smooth and buff it out. Cool!
Plus the finish is so thick I don't think you could buff through it if you tried.
Dave
Here is a pic from an attempt last year. I wet sanded these to get the lines from were I poured the side panel to meet the front panel. I sanded the edge down with 400 then sanded the whole box with I think 1200. I tried hand buffing with some stuff I had around and this is the result. Not so good.

This morning for the heck of it I took the box up to my shop and buffed with Finish Cut I got from my auto paint store. Then buffed with Deep Chrystal Paint Cleaner. Both I used the pad on the left. I then finished with Carnauba wax and the pad on the right.

Finished product.

Notice how the finish looks like it has brush marks in it. That is actually the grain of the Baltic Birch raised from moisture I believe. Now for those that wont use MDF because of the seams showing. Take a look at this end grain. These boxes were skimmed with body putty to take out the imperfections. You can clearly see the end grain of the plywood in the round over.

Here is a link to the album that shows pics of the experiment on the boxes. This was done as I was doing the MDF seam test boxes that are in my signature below.
Not trying to stir up the "Bu tt Joint" argument again. Just wanted to share.
Now that I know that the pour on epoxy can be sanded and buffed this opens up a lot of opportunities for an inexperienced painter to do a piano finish. I used the pour on epoxy on my Rock It Speakers and really liked the finish other then some of the edges were the pours met. I now know I can wet sand them smooth and buff it out. Cool!
Plus the finish is so thick I don't think you could buff through it if you tried.
Dave
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