Deadhorse Build Thread

[donradick]

Re: Deadhorse Build Thread

Remarkably flat, dude - wow! Not bad at all for your first design, first sim, and first measurements.

[greywarden]

Re: Deadhorse Build Thread

Remarkably flat, dude - wow! Not bad at all for your first design, first sim, and first measurements.

Yep, I was both suprised and excited. I'll work on it some more this weekend.

Looks like your sims were withing 3 or 4 db, good job from going blind

I was really suprised, I even used a tweeter that wasn't my tweeter, haha! I'll try to swap out some parts and work that dip out, then it'll pretty much be ready to go

[greywarden]

Re: Deadhorse Build Thread

Had a sh!tty day at work, so I decided to waste the rest of my day kicking this deadhorse some more :D

REAL MEASUREMENTS - UNSMOOTHED

This crossover is pretty much finished.

[donradick]

Re: Deadhorse Build Thread

I just love it when I can measure a deep reverse null. So.... How do they sound? Smooth? Solid center image?

[greywarden]

Re: Deadhorse Build Thread

Well, I have to order a few crossover parts. I have about half of the parts required for that crossover. Currently, there's a 5dB dip that starts around 4kHz to 6kHz and the tweeter peaks at 12kHz or so.

It sounded ok to me, but that shows my newb-ishness :o

I also finally got my bronco running again, so I'll be able to buy and cut some wood soon

[EDIT]: Now that I'm looking at it more, I think I'm going to try for a lower crossover point than 4.8kHz or so, since that tweeter can be crossed as low as 2.6Khz or so.

[greywarden]

Re: Deadhorse Build Thread

Alright, better crossover, better impedance, better impedance phase.... Just better.

Both drivers are showing about 2.5-2.6kHz 5th Order Butterworth slopes, off-axis Sim is AMAZING :D

The 5kHz dip is in all the tweeter measurements I've taken, I'm 90% sure of the cause and it's being fixed, tweeter was mounted badly. :o And the 10kHz peak has been in every measurement in the basement I've ever taken, can't figure out what the f*ck it is, and it's driving me insane.

[scottq]

Re: Deadhorse Build Thread

You're bringing these to SEC DIY 2012, right?!? :D

[greywarden]

Re: Deadhorse Build Thread

I can be back home as early as July 8th and as late as the beginning of September, so we'll see, hopefully I can!

[killa]

Re: Deadhorse Build Thread

Is that dip in the raw measurements also or is it there after the xo is added?

[greywarden]

Re: Deadhorse Build Thread

It's in both measurements. I bought a Forstner bit that was for another driver, but thought the hole would be the correct size and it definitely wasn't, so one screw went halfway into the sidewall of the hole and the other screw was inside the hole, neither one of them were actually in the wood. But the Impedance sweep said it was sealed, probably because I put some thick gasket foam on the back of the tweeter.

[killa]

Re: Deadhorse Build Thread

Do both the tweeter and woofer have a dip in the same spot? Have you calibrated your mic and soundcard? I would check the measurements against others to see if they also have a dip otherwise calibration may be off for some reason. At least that would be my guess.

[donradick]

Re: Deadhorse Build Thread

Alright, better crossover, better impedance, better impedance phase.... Just better.

Both drivers are showing about 2.5-2.6kHz 5th Order Butterworth slopes, off-axis Sim is AMAZING :D

The 5kHz dip is in all the tweeter measurements I've taken, I'm 90% sure of the cause and it's being fixed, tweeter was mounted badly. :o And the 10kHz peak has been in every measurement in the basement I've ever taken, can't figure out what the f*ck it is, and it's driving me insane.

Very nice sim - I find that even if I have real problems getting a sim to "line up", a couple of hours playing with it usually fixes things (along with reading Wolfs pages) . Ok, boyo - the sim looks pretty good, but what are the measurements? BTW, I've often had dips around 5-7 K that "shouldn't" have been there. Thought about using some felt around the tweeter (ala DLR) to see if it was diffraction.

BTW, congrats on the Bronco fix. I've spent many a freezing night under a car.

[greywarden]

Re: Deadhorse Build Thread

Do both the tweeter and woofer have a dip in the same spot? Have you calibrated your mic and soundcard? I would check the measurements against others to see if they also have a dip otherwise calibration may be off for some reason. At least that would be my guess.

The woofer breakup actually peaks at 5kHz, so that's why I'm about 90% sure it's the way the tweeter was mounted.

I'm going to go ahead and try to clean up the garage and start building the enclosures this weekend. Here's what I plan to build:

9.875" Wide x 15.5" Tall x 15.5" Deep (actual enclosure will be 8.25L), crossover mounted in the rear enclosure.

[greywarden]

Re: Deadhorse Build Thread

Very nice sim - I find that even if I have real problems getting a sim to "line up", a couple of hours playing with it usually fixes things (along with reading Wolfs pages) . Ok, boyo - the sim looks pretty good, but what are the measurements? BTW, I've often had dips around 5-7 K that "shouldn't" have been there. Thought about using some felt around the tweeter (ala DLR) to see if it was diffraction.

BTW, congrats on the Bronco fix. I've spent many a freezing night under a car.

I've found that if you get tangled up with a sim, first, make a CSP file with only the vital info (x,y,z measurements, effective diameters, etc) then stop and close it. Then pick it up a day or 2 later and start over.

I ususally start super simple, and work my way up very methodically. This one I had to [attempt to] flatten out both drivers' impedances, then FR, and once that was done, implementing textbook crossovers pretty much nets you what you're looking for. That said, there's 17 essential parts to this crossover :eek: I was actually able to knock 2 off the tweeter.

[killa]

Re: Deadhorse Build Thread

I've found that if you get tangled up with a sim, first, make a CSP file with only the vital info (x,y,z measurements, effective diameters, etc) then stop and close it. Then pick it up a day or 2 later and start over.

I ususally start super simple, and work my way up very methodically. This one I had to [attempt to] flatten out both drivers' impedances, then FR, and once that was done, implementing textbook crossovers pretty much nets you what you're looking for. That said, there's 17 essential parts to this crossover :eek: I was actually able to knock 2 off the tweeter.

I thought there were a lot of xo parts. Now I know why. :D