Deadhorse Build Thread

[50 watt head]

Re: Deadhorse Build Thread

Huh, Arizona weather in SoDak this weekend. Sunny, dry and in the 80's. Went for two runs, made a pile of sawdust...

Oh, so THAT'S what happened to our sunshine :p It's been rainy, cloudy, and cold here for the last two days.....

[johnnyrichards]

Re: Deadhorse Build Thread

Zobel, 2 notches and [electrical] 3rd order crossovers on each driver :rolleyes:

Really if I could, I'd implement another 2 notches on the tweeter's humps.

Buuuuut, I still have to order parts and measure, measure, measure. I tried pretty much every type of measurement I could, save outdoor, becuase it's still below 0*F here, and I'm just tired of being cold (going on 3 years...), but I think I finally got my measurements to work for me.

Huh, Arizona weather in SoDak this weekend. Sunny, dry and in the 80's. Went for two runs, made a pile of sawdust...

[greywarden]

Re: Deadhorse Build Thread

Zobel, 2 notches and [electrical] 3rd order crossovers on each driver :rolleyes:

Really if I could, I'd implement another 2 notches on the tweeter's humps.

Buuuuut, I still have to order parts and measure, measure, measure. I tried pretty much every type of measurement I could, save outdoor, becuase it's still below 0*F here, and I'm just tired of being cold (going on 3 years...), but I think I finally got my measurements to work for me.

[killa]

Re: Deadhorse Build Thread

........21?

It doesn't sound just yet, I need to order more parts :o

:eek: My 3ways only have 20 parts. I take it you are still trying to flatten the impedance? Just curious as I thought the drivers should be easy to work with.

[greywarden]

Re: Deadhorse Build Thread

I am betting there are less components in this xo? Looking good. How does it sound?

........21?

It doesn't sound just yet, I need to order more parts :o

[killa]

Re: Deadhorse Build Thread

I am betting there are less components in this xo? Looking good. How does it sound?

[greywarden]

Re: Deadhorse Build Thread

Alright, I got the majority of the of the pieces in the mail today, save 1 inductor and 2 caps, all on backorder :(

I'm going to buy a digital micrometer so I can measure the parts and use Emachineshop to develope a good layout!

I'll try to hook them up with some parts I have on hand that can be subbed in and get some measurements

Ok, that crossover, for some reason, was absolute garbage, and I don't even want to talk about it. I honestly don't know what happened.

BUT, I've spent almost the past 2 weeks working on a better, the best yet, crossover. Here's the response, notice the 1dB scale ;)

[greywarden]

Re: Deadhorse Build Thread

Alright, I got the majority of the of the pieces in the mail today, save 1 inductor and 2 caps, all on backorder :(

I'm going to buy a digital micrometer so I can measure the parts and use Emachineshop to develope a good layout!

I'll try to hook them up with some parts I have on hand that can be subbed in and get some measurements

[donradick]

Re: Deadhorse Build Thread

I've found that if you get tangled up with a sim, first, make a CSP file with only the vital info (x,y,z measurements, effective diameters, etc) then stop and close it. Then pick it up a day or 2 later and start over.

I ususally start super simple, and work my way up very methodically. This one I had to [attempt to] flatten out both drivers' impedances, then FR, and once that was done, implementing textbook crossovers pretty much nets you what you're looking for. That said, there's 17 essential parts to this crossover :eek: I was actually able to knock 2 off the tweeter.

That's pretty much the way I do it. Sometimes leave it, and come back a few days later and try something totally different. For instance, I've got an MTM design with a very nice reverse null (LR2 / B3 electrical), but I'm going to try a resim with a B3/B3 for off axis smoothness. I'll usually try with/without a zobel - so far haven't needed one.

[killa]

Re: Deadhorse Build Thread

I've found that if you get tangled up with a sim, first, make a CSP file with only the vital info (x,y,z measurements, effective diameters, etc) then stop and close it. Then pick it up a day or 2 later and start over.

I ususally start super simple, and work my way up very methodically. This one I had to [attempt to] flatten out both drivers' impedances, then FR, and once that was done, implementing textbook crossovers pretty much nets you what you're looking for. That said, there's 17 essential parts to this crossover :eek: I was actually able to knock 2 off the tweeter.

I thought there were a lot of xo parts. Now I know why. :D

[greywarden]

Re: Deadhorse Build Thread

Very nice sim - I find that even if I have real problems getting a sim to "line up", a couple of hours playing with it usually fixes things (along with reading Wolfs pages) . Ok, boyo - the sim looks pretty good, but what are the measurements? BTW, I've often had dips around 5-7 K that "shouldn't" have been there. Thought about using some felt around the tweeter (ala DLR) to see if it was diffraction.

BTW, congrats on the Bronco fix. I've spent many a freezing night under a car.

I've found that if you get tangled up with a sim, first, make a CSP file with only the vital info (x,y,z measurements, effective diameters, etc) then stop and close it. Then pick it up a day or 2 later and start over.

I ususally start super simple, and work my way up very methodically. This one I had to [attempt to] flatten out both drivers' impedances, then FR, and once that was done, implementing textbook crossovers pretty much nets you what you're looking for. That said, there's 17 essential parts to this crossover :eek: I was actually able to knock 2 off the tweeter.

[greywarden]

Re: Deadhorse Build Thread

Do both the tweeter and woofer have a dip in the same spot? Have you calibrated your mic and soundcard? I would check the measurements against others to see if they also have a dip otherwise calibration may be off for some reason. At least that would be my guess.

The woofer breakup actually peaks at 5kHz, so that's why I'm about 90% sure it's the way the tweeter was mounted.

I'm going to go ahead and try to clean up the garage and start building the enclosures this weekend. Here's what I plan to build:

9.875" Wide x 15.5" Tall x 15.5" Deep (actual enclosure will be 8.25L), crossover mounted in the rear enclosure.

[donradick]

Re: Deadhorse Build Thread

Alright, better crossover, better impedance, better impedance phase.... Just better.

Both drivers are showing about 2.5-2.6kHz 5th Order Butterworth slopes, off-axis Sim is AMAZING :D

The 5kHz dip is in all the tweeter measurements I've taken, I'm 90% sure of the cause and it's being fixed, tweeter was mounted badly. :o And the 10kHz peak has been in every measurement in the basement I've ever taken, can't figure out what the f*ck it is, and it's driving me insane.

Very nice sim - I find that even if I have real problems getting a sim to "line up", a couple of hours playing with it usually fixes things (along with reading Wolfs pages) . Ok, boyo - the sim looks pretty good, but what are the measurements? BTW, I've often had dips around 5-7 K that "shouldn't" have been there. Thought about using some felt around the tweeter (ala DLR) to see if it was diffraction.

BTW, congrats on the Bronco fix. I've spent many a freezing night under a car.

[killa]

Re: Deadhorse Build Thread

Do both the tweeter and woofer have a dip in the same spot? Have you calibrated your mic and soundcard? I would check the measurements against others to see if they also have a dip otherwise calibration may be off for some reason. At least that would be my guess.

[greywarden]

Re: Deadhorse Build Thread

It's in both measurements. I bought a Forstner bit that was for another driver, but thought the hole would be the correct size and it definitely wasn't, so one screw went halfway into the sidewall of the hole and the other screw was inside the hole, neither one of them were actually in the wood. But the Impedance sweep said it was sealed, probably because I put some thick gasket foam on the back of the tweeter.