HT sub with Dayton DVC 12" or 15"

[ani_101]

Hi

Both the Dayton 12" and the 15" subwoofer are on sale. The difference in cost isn't much between them.

I am planning to build a sub woofer for Home Theater application, crossed over to the sub at around 70-80Hz from the Av receiver. The sub should play down to 20Hz or whatever is recommended for HT use.

I have started a new thread as per suggestion and have a very rudimentary design in WinISD - needless to say this is one of the first time i have opened this SW and entered anything and not much of it makes sense to me - so i am all ears!

I don't have to stick with the DVC driver if there are better drivers. I am planning to power it with a SA250 (now that the SA240 is NLA).

Driver budget is 100 to 200$ and Amp budget is also in the same range. I don't mind stepping up to the Oaudio 500w amp, if it helps (with shipping it would be 230$ to Conus).

I assume hornresp would be a better simulator but I still haven't explored it. Also, i do not have any restriction on the box size.

[ani_101]

Re: HT sub with Dayton DVC 12" or 15"

Please let me know if other parameters need to posted from my sim. Would also appreciate other sims.

[jinjuku]

Re: HT sub with Dayton DVC 12" or 15"

The Jpegs are so small as to be totally unreadable.

[Steve Henry]

Re: HT sub with Dayton DVC 12" or 15"

My brother & I built the Rump Thumper III for his HT. I know it's been around awhile, but it just works.

http://www.parts-express.com/projectshowcase/whtsub.htm

[scottq]

Re: HT sub with Dayton DVC 12" or 15"

The Dayton DVC drivers (Shiva and Tempest clones) are great values, IMO. Since you don't mention music, you may as well go with the 15" DVC for some more slam. But, depending on room size and configuration, the 12" might do just fine. The upside is that these drivers are pretty efficient, so the SA250 is well suited to getting you plenty of power out of them.

If box size isn't a limitation, take advantage of it and go big

[johnastockman]

Re: HT sub with Dayton DVC 12" or 15"

Hi

Both the Dayton 12" and the 15" subwoofer are on sale. The difference in cost isn't much between them.

I am planning to build a sub woofer for Home Theater application, crossed over to the sub at around 70-80Hz from the Av receiver. The sub should play down to 20Hz or whatever is recommended for HT use.

I have started a new thread as per suggestion and have a very rudimentary design in WinISD - needless to say this is one of the first time i have opened this SW and entered anything and not much of it makes sense to me - so i am all ears!

I don't have to stick with the DVC driver if there are better drivers. I am planning to power it with a SA250 (now that the SA240 is NLA).

Driver budget is 100 to 200$ and Amp budget is also in the same range. I don't mind stepping up to the Oaudio 500w amp, if it helps (with shipping it would be 230$ to Conus).

I assume hornresp would be a better simulator but I still haven't explored it. Also, i do not have any restriction on the box size.

You could try Unibox as another alternative for box design:

http://www.pvconsultants.com/audio/boxmodel/unibox.htm

I use WinISD for volume suggestions and for a ported box design, the port diameter, length and the air speed through the port; you don't want air noise or chuffing. For a 12" or 15" woofer I wouldn't use anything less than a 4" diameter, preferably a flared one...if you go with a round port. Slot-ports are different in that regard and I don't have any experience with those. I think that Oaudio amp has the parametric EQ function. The PE 500 watt plate amp I used in the sub I built for my nephew (2.5 ft3 net sealed and the RSS315HF-4 12" woofer) has the parametric EQ and it helped a lot with room integration. If you're thinking about the Oaudio, it's a great feature to deal with room nodes. The RSS series of drivers are very nice and work well with both HT and music, so have a look at those, too. With WinISD or other programs, you'll want a smooth roll-off towards the lower frequency, not a sharp drop or a "knee" with a rise before the roll-off. Pay attention to the air velocity through the port. You can see it rise as you go with a smaller diameter port. IIRC, with WinISD you want less than .16 or .15 mach. Minimum would be a 4", but if using a 15", probably a 6" port, flared. Just keep playing around with either WinISD or Unibox...you can enter parameters from other sub drivers and see what you come up with and how changes to box volume and port size affect the response curve. Good luck!


John A.

[fitzwaddle]

Re: HT sub with Dayton DVC 12" or 15"

If box size isn't a limitation, take advantage of it and go big

Speaking of which, its one of the recommended drivers for the THT

[ani_101]

Re: HT sub with Dayton DVC 12" or 15"

The Jpegs are so small as to be totally unreadable.

I am really sorry for that, but looks like the upload messed up the images. Let me try again.

[ani_101]

Re: HT sub with Dayton DVC 12" or 15"

Some more...

The blue line is 15inch and orange one is 12inch

[ani_101]

Re: HT sub with Dayton DVC 12" or 15"

Uploading the WinISD project files as .txt

Please rename the extension to .wpr and open in WinISD

[ani_101]

Re: HT sub with Dayton DVC 12" or 15"

Re-modelling with 6inch port.

Everything seems to remain the same expect the rear port velocity.

Though the port length for the 12 inch seems to go over to 60 inch, if the port length is changed to 4 inch it seems to be 40 inch, though the port velocity seems to go a bit over 19.5....

[Chris Roemer]

Re: HT sub with Dayton DVC 12" or 15"

Re-modelling with 6inch port.

Everything seems to remain the same expect the rear port velocity.

Though the port length for the 12 inch seems to go over to 60 inch, if the port length is changed to 4 inch it seems to be 40 inch, though the port velocity seems to go a bit over 19.5....

A 4"d well-flared ("Precision") port should be adequate for the 12". I'm lookin' at about 15" for length in your 4 cf box, unboosted amp. Probably all you'd ever need.

For the 15", I'd probably go with a pair of 4" ports. In 7.1 cf, I'd use a pair of 4", each one 19" long. Not too shabby.

Chris

[nottaway]

Re: HT sub with Dayton DVC 12" or 15"

The lilmike F-20 horn is the easiest and best bang for the buck Home Theater application for the Dayton DVC-15 IMO. Ive heard them in person and they are quite impressive in output for a single 15.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1329971&page=43

I personally have built the DVC15's close cousin the MFW15 in both sealed and vented alignments and they both perform admirably. They model identical for all intents and purposes. For sealed you'll need multiple units though to achieve anything significant for HT.

Sealed 2.5-3.0ft^3 no high pass needed 250-300Watts. This is what I use in my Ded HT(Eight of them) and a IB 21":D

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1348955&highlight=mfw+tower&page=4

Vented 3.0^ft3 tuned to 19Hz high pass @19

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1290649&page=4

[ani_101]

Re: HT sub with Dayton DVC 12" or 15"

A 4"d well-flared ("Precision") port should be adequate for the 12". I'm lookin' at about 15" for length in your 4 cf box, unboosted amp. Probably all you'd ever need.

For the 15", I'd probably go with a pair of 4" ports. In 7.1 cf, I'd use a pair of 4", each one 19" long. Not too shabby.

Chris

A couple of question. would the flared port of 4" be sufficient at 15" compared to the almost 40" non flared?

For the 15" is it a pair of 4" precision flared port?

Would these get me close to the 20hz? Also looking at the graphs of 12" and 15", the 15" looks like a smoother graph while the 12" is a bit wavy - what is preferable? What should i be looking for?

Thanks

[monoiz15]

Re: HT sub with Dayton DVC 12" or 15"

I think the 15" with dual 4" ports should work pretty well. You will need a slightly bigger box with all that port volume.

What box size are you looking at?

I got that a 6.55 cu.ft. box will give it an F3 of 20Hz. Before bracing and ports, 17"W x 22"D x 30"H looks good to me, any space that needs to be added will be added to the depth. Box size is no problem for me, and I think it would look cool to have it standing up with the woofer on top and dual 4" ports on the front . I will be using mine for my stage-like setup in the "party room". No hiding it or tucking it away, its all for show. As long as its not too big to fit in the truck of my car :eek:

What do people do for diy precision ports? Just pvc with mdf ends with a roundover??