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C-Note - Iron Driver Build

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  • Geoff Millar
    commented on 's reply
    Value, thanks Ron: these are great looking and sounding speakers!

    Geoff

  • Ron_E
    replied
    ImageShack has dropped most of the images from this post so I've put them on Google Drive. https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1NfusS6W4bf3lnJiKloNqlMdlwyNYWp2M?usp=sharing

    Ron

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  • Ron_E
    replied
    Re: C-Note - Iron Driver Build

    I've re-tuned the port to around 36Hz and there's substantial improvement in the low end. The images are R-Carpenters original response measurements, the new near-field and port summed response and the new impedance.

    Click image for larger version

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    The response looks a little better than the original design simulation.

    Click image for larger version

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    The current port length is 5 5/8". The 1/2" Baltic birch cabinet external dimensions are 27 x 12 1/2 x 8. There was a small piece of 1/4" plywood behind the tweeter so there was something left to fasten the tweeter to after cutting the rebate. The port is 4"s from the bottom. The tweeter is 18"s from the bottom with the woofers evenly spaced above and below with an 8 1/2" center to center spacing.

    These will be in Grinnell this weekend.

    Ron

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  • Ron_E
    replied
    Re: C-Note - Iron Driver Build

    I forgot to mention that I rubbed the finish out with Pumice stone and then Rottenstone. http://www.woodcraft.com/product/200...e-4f-1-lb.aspx I make a slurry with Paraffin oil and rub the finish out with a piece of felt on a sanding block. I was looking for a video and ran across this short one on rubbing out oil finishes. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CAZ9I...eature=related

    Ron

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  • RcDuck
    replied
    Re: C-Note - Iron Driver Build

    Originally posted by dcibel View Post
    I'd like to be able to set a drink on the wood without fear that it will leave a ring.
    +1

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  • dcibel
    replied
    Re: C-Note - Iron Driver Build

    Originally posted by Ron_E View Post
    The Tung oil will protect the wood all by itself. Yes, the product I used was an oil and stain mixture by Watco. http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=46 Our local Lowes stocks some. The Watco product says you can put Poly over the top if you wait 72 hours. I've used wipe-on and regular satin poly as a top coat. You can probably do the same with Tung oil. If you can't verify that's OK I'd do a test piece.

    Ron
    Thanks for the info. The tung oil I used says specifically that it does not contain any wax or varnish, which is why I thought to put poly over top. I'd like to be able to set a drink on the wood without fear that it will leave a ring.

    Leave a comment:


  • Ron_E
    replied
    Re: C-Note - Iron Driver Build

    Originally posted by dcibel View Post
    Ron, those looks great! I am just getting started with veneering, can you give some details of how you finished these speakers? I am starting by refinishing a pair of old Realistic speakers. See here. I have refinished these by simply sanding and rubbing Circa 1850 tung oil on them. I did 4 coats, rubbing 0000 Seel wool inbetween coats. They look great! Have a very nice sheen and good color. I want to protect the wood, so am thinking to do wipe-on polyurethane as well. I want to get it just right though, I'd hate to put anything on right now that makes the finish look worse.

    By dark walnut danish oil, do you maen a pre-mixed oil and stain type of thing? I was thinking of using semi-gloss myself, but yours seem to have a bit of sheen with the satin finish.
    The Tung oil will protect the wood all by itself. Yes, the product I used was an oil and stain mixture by Watco. http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=46 Our local Lowes stocks some. The Watco product says you can put Poly over the top if you wait 72 hours. I've used wipe-on and regular satin poly as a top coat. You can probably do the same with Tung oil. If you can't verify that's OK I'd do a test piece.

    Ron

    Leave a comment:


  • bolland83
    replied
    Re: C-Note - Iron Driver Build

    I bet they sound as good as they look (awesome!), that's a great driver combo

    Leave a comment:


  • dcibel
    replied
    Re: C-Note - Iron Driver Build

    Ron, those looks great! I am just getting started with veneering, can you give some details of how you finished these speakers? I am starting by refinishing a pair of old Realistic speakers. See here. I have refinished these by simply sanding and rubbing Circa 1850 tung oil on them. I did 4 coats, rubbing 0000 Seel wool inbetween coats. They look great! Have a very nice sheen and good color. I want to protect the wood, so am thinking to do wipe-on polyurethane as well. I want to get it just right though, I'd hate to put anything on right now that makes the finish look worse.

    By dark walnut danish oil, do you maen a pre-mixed oil and stain type of thing? I was thinking of using semi-gloss myself, but yours seem to have a bit of sheen with the satin finish.

    Leave a comment:


  • Ron_E
    replied
    Re: C-Note - Iron Driver Build

    PS Thanks for all the ataboys.

    Ron

    Leave a comment:


  • Ron_E
    replied
    Re: C-Note - Iron Driver Build

    Originally posted by ROTECH View Post
    Great job. Very nice cabinet work. And you painfully remind me that Veneer can and should be easier than paint, yet I still end up painting.

    I guess its time for me to get a 1'' roundover bit too.
    Originally posted by [email protected] View Post
    really nice ron. this make me a bit less afraid to try venneer.
    It's not all that hard to apply NBL veneer with the iron on method. Trimming it takes a little practice but with the right tools isn't too hard. It is not as cheap as paint and you still have to finish it. I've had problems with seams telegraphing on smooth grained veneers like cherry. With cherry I end up trying to get a piano like finish and that's been a lot of work sometimes. I find it's been much more forgiving to use veneer with grain like oak and the walnut I used on these. The texture of the grain tends to hide a lot of sins. It helps that over time I've learned to not have so many sins to hide. ;) I've started doing backs and in this case the backs and tops in Formica. It's very easy to apply, it's tough and there's nothing to finish. If you can put up with the seams it might be something to consider too.

    Ron

    Leave a comment:


  • RcDuck
    replied
    Re: C-Note - Iron Driver Build

    Ron

    As a participating member of the judging panel I must agree with Mike it was a "it was a game of inches". Your craftsmanship and design was impecable and when I saw them I said "I want them!". Love the veneer choice.

    I will be building a set of Iron drivers as a momento of my trip to NYC and as of now yours are top runner. I will be listening to Mike Z's entry again after he has "completed" them (added in a zobel putting the price over $200/pair).

    Thanks for making DIY-NY such a success

    Randy Duck

    ps Removable bottom... Who does that (I will from now on)? GREAT IDEA!!!

    Leave a comment:


  • philiparcario
    replied
    Re: C-Note - Iron Driver Build

    double post

    Leave a comment:


  • philiparcario
    replied
    Re: C-Note - Iron Driver Build

    I liked them and in this contest the 9 entries were not far apart. The 200 price limit and the iron driver inclusion forced close competition.
    Many times I found myself not being able to hear any differences from one speaker to the next.

    It is also a real demo in how the internet can level many different playing fields in this case speaker design/building. The resources available to a diy guy/gal in this world are amazing.

    Leave a comment:


  • arlis_1957@yahoo.com
    replied
    Re: C-Note - Iron Driver Build

    really nice ron. this make me a bit less afraid to try venneer.

    Leave a comment:

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