Digger8 Sub - diggity dig it all the way to 20Hz

[greywarden]

Re: Digger8 Sub - diggity dig it all the way to 20Hz

If you plan to use a plate amplifier with it, you can build a sub-enclosure ( in your sub enclosure, lol) so the amplifier will be air-tight.

[fastbike1]

Re: Digger8 Sub - diggity dig it all the way to 20Hz

They're not all made like that.

Never really looked at a PR before. The cone are is made of somewhat heavy MDF. Quite interesting really!

[ATTACH=CONFIG]44931[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]44932[/ATTACH]

[jsr]

Re: Digger8 Sub - diggity dig it all the way to 20Hz

Actually the 14.25in 1cf box would work if you enlarge the stock cutout to fit the PR and cutout the opposite panel for the active 8in sub. The amp would have to be run externally but that will get you closest to the necessary volume without wasted space and unnecessary work. You'll actually have slightly more volume than needed because the plate amp isn't taking up space but that difference is ok.
In the above setup, you can't do a down firing configuration because the drivers are opposing one another and you shouldn't run PRs horizontally due to sag. If you had enough space to run the active sub on an adjacent wall then yes you could do down firing but that's not the case here.

JSR, Thank you so much for not only your excellent Sub design, but also for your timely response. In the space I have for the sub, a 15" cube works well. How would I best fill up the space to get to a net of .85 cu ft? Do I need to add wood to the sides and top internally, or would some square blocks of wood work as well? What do you think of the down firing sub idea? I very much appreciate your help...

[bluejay29560]

Re: Digger8 Sub - diggity dig it all the way to 20Hz

JSR, Thanks again. In the 1cu ft box, if the front panel with the 10" cutout is enlarged to fit the Dayton pr, could I then remove the internal bracing leg on the bottom and cut a hole for the 8" sub somewhat toward the rear of the bottom panel for a down firing application. I would like to hide that driver as it is a bit flashy for my tastes. I have already bought it(Infinity Reference 860) by the way. In your design the two drivers are on adjacent panels as this would be. The depth of the pr is only 3.5" and the Infinity is 5 3/16". Since my woodworking equipment consists of a skill saw a jig saw and a drill, a flat pack is appealing to me. I also have no understanding of rabbets and dadoes.
However, I do work for the SC Technical College System and if the 9X14X20 enclosure is the best route, I might try to find a college in the state that has cabinet making as part of their training offerings.
Again, I want to thank you for bearing with me and for all the help you have given me so far. Cheers....Bob

[bluejay29560]

Re: Digger8 Sub - diggity dig it all the way to 20Hz

JSR, I have located a table saw and router, so I will try to make me a true Digger8! Will I need to add internal bracing as I have seen in the flatpack that Tom Jones made? lastly, can I place the Infinity sub downfiring on the bottom 9x14 panel? Thanks again for your help....Bluejay29560......

[kevin007]

Re: Digger8 Sub - diggity dig it all the way to 20Hz

JSR, I have located a table saw and router, so I will try to make me a true Digger8! Will I need to add internal bracing as I have seen in the flatpack that Tom Jones made? lastly, can I place the Infinity sub downfiring on the bottom 9x14 panel? Thanks again for your help....Bluejay29560......

If you check out my signature you will see I built a mirrored pair of digger 8's using the infinity sub and now using the AE PR. I have an internal brace that sits right behind the PR and the baffle is 1.5 inch think since if you want to fluch mount the infinity driver it would require almost 3/4 of an inch to do it.

With the addition of the AE PR I think they really rock. I plan on posting some pics of the converted PR's to give an idea of what they look like. They now go so low and hit so hard that if I do not use double stick tape on the sub my OS MTM's will go flying off in a heartbeat.

My kids love them. Especially my oldest son who is a real basshead. I cannot hear the <30Hz so it is a little wasted on me. But they love it. We played some of those woofer cooker songs from you tube and we shook the entire apartment.

Definitely a killer little sub.

Kevin

[jsr]

Re: Digger8 Sub - diggity dig it all the way to 20Hz

Oops I read your post last night and forgot to reply. I'm running on 30 minutes of sleep so excuse any jibberish that I may say.
Yes you can put the Infinity on the bottom panel. Just raise the PR up the panel so they don't interfere. Yes you need an internal brace. It doesn't need to be as elaborate as Tom's CNC one, anything that connects the sides will work. You can just get dowels and glue them in place connecting the opposing sides and top and bottom panels.
Regarding the PE 1cf box in case you still want that as an option, I'm not sure if there's sufficient space inside the cab to prevent the 2 drivers from hitting one another. I'd be curious myself so if you go this route, let me know.
The Dayton PR isn't as large for the basket as the AE one so it would be eaiser to place closer to the sub, but again I haven't had time to take apart my Digger to check check minium clearances.

[bluejay29560]

Re: Digger8 Sub - diggity dig it all the way to 20Hz

Mr. JSR...You Are The Man! I am excited about becoming a member of this Digger8 fraternity. I'll keep y'all updated on the progress. For the same money, is the yung 200 no boost better or the Dayton 250 amp? I know there has been some discussion about filters that I am not sure of. Also Kevin, thank you for your input on the AE pr. I think I'll do as you and start off with the Dayton with the AE as a nice boost down the road. Merci beaucoup guys.....bluejay29560

[bluejay29560]

Re: Digger8 Sub - diggity dig it all the way to 20Hz

Hey, Check this out, it looks like a dual Digger8 sub! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FBJal0iNHOo ....Bluejay29560

[jsr]

Re: Digger8 Sub - diggity dig it all the way to 20Hz

I'm not sure what the Dayton amps LPF is but the Yung was discovered to have an LPF that's not ideal for the design to reach minimum frequency. However the Yungs aren't that difficult to mod if you feel up to the task. I like the Yungs for their efficiency as they just get warm even when pushing for hours whereas the AB amps will get VERY hot. But the Dayton may have a lower LPF Fc.

And to add to the fun of the Digger8 playing that Kevin's having, I had the same experience of the walking Digger8 running test tones when I was first making the sub. I used an amp with no LPF and it moved the floor (I was upstairs)... fun eh?

[bluejay29560]

Re: Digger8 Sub - diggity dig it all the way to 20Hz

JSR, Do you know the LPF that Yung uses on the 200W amp or the 300W amp that you used. The 300W is out of stock until early next month. For best results the LPF should be around 19Hz correct? thanks ......Bluejay29560

[bluejay29560]

Re: Digger8 Sub - diggity dig it all the way to 20Hz

JSR, I got the Dayton PR yesterday and it appears I will need to add a 2" diameter by 1.5" long solid steel cylinder to it's rear to achieve appx 575 grams(1.27 lbs). At this length it will protrude .75 inch out the backside of the PR. Will this much mass cause a torque issue to develop that would cause the PR components to become misaligned over time? Am I wrong about the amount of material(either a solid 2" dia. x1.5" length steel cylinder with hole drilled for bolt or about 40 1.5"fender washers with a length of about 3" needed to get to this 575 gram level? Thanks for any input....Bluejay29560

[jsr]

Re: Digger8 Sub - diggity dig it all the way to 20Hz

Bluejay,
I can't remember the corner frequency of the Yung amps. You should be able to find it via a Google search. There's a thread on another forum where the member asked the resistors that need to be change if you want to lower the Fc of the filter.
For the mass, I used various sizes washers from home depot. From what I recall, it protruded about 1.5in or so. But you need a longer screw to attach them as the stock one is too short. You shouldn't need a solid metal tube. Steel washers will add up pretty quickly for weight.
575g shouldn't be a problem for the PR or its suspension. The PR is supposed to be good for at least 600g.

[Mike220]

Re: Digger8 Sub - diggity dig it all the way to 20Hz

After hearing the digger 8 i wanted to look into passives. Ordered a css 15" passive for my rss12 hf's and am experimenting with weights at the moment!

[kevin007]

Re: Digger8 Sub - diggity dig it all the way to 20Hz

JSR, I got the Dayton PR yesterday and it appears I will need to add a 2" diameter by 1.5" long solid steel cylinder to it's rear to achieve appx 575 grams(1.27 lbs). At this length it will protrude .75 inch out the backside of the PR. Will this much mass cause a torque issue to develop that would cause the PR components to become misaligned over time? Am I wrong about the amount of material(either a solid 2" dia. x1.5" length steel cylinder with hole drilled for bolt or about 40 1.5"fender washers with a length of about 3" needed to get to this 575 gram level? Thanks for any input....Bluejay29560

The biggest problem I had with all the washers hanging off the back end was that they ran into the brace and damaged the PR. It was ruined after that. That is why I went with the AE PR instead.

The bad thing will be if you have to install the AE PR then you will need to enlarge your cut out and if you wanted it flush mount it you would be out of luck as the thickness of the rim of the AE PR is 3/4 thick with a think rubber gasket wrapped around it. You would need a 1 1/2 inch thick baffle to mount it flush.

So starting things off with the AE PR would be advantageous...

Kevin