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Now that my ski season is over I can finally get back on these.
A while back I made up a bunch of samples of cabinet panels out of difference materials to try to come up with a light weight panel for my next three way build. I ended up using a 1" thick panel made up of an inner layer of 1/4" hardi backer cement board, a viscoelastic layer of mystery glop, http://meniscusaudio.com/mystery-glop-p-909.html, a 1/2" thick layer of thermax sheeting, a layer of silicone then the outer layer of 1/4" cherry plywood. I think this will lighten the cabinets up my about 20lbs. I hope so at least. The mystery goop has a consistency of jello and is very sticky. I found heating it up will liquify it so it can be applied with a roller or brush. Scary stuff when heated. I can't even imagine spilling on myself.
I made the tweeter/ mid in a sealed cabinet that is removable from the base cabinet. Making the tweeter/mid box removable was the best way to lighten up the cabinet. I have it sitting on the base box with spikes with cups set into the top of the base cabinet so they have a space of a 1/4" between them.
I molded a waveguide to fit around the mid and I also rear mounted the mid and down sized the opening so the surround is hidden. This allowed me room to get a double bevel on the baffle edge. With all my waveguide testing I found a 30 degree bevel going into a 60 degree bevel works really well for diffraction.
The base section will have two 8" buyout woofers mounted in a folded tapered line designed by Paul K. The line tapers both directions as it exits out base box at the top. The woofers are sandwiched in a frame suspended by silicone. The front baffle and rear panel will be attached by sandwiching the box with four PVC pipes running through the box. The pvc pipe screws to the front baffle, runs through the cabinet and the rear panel will have screws running through it into the pvc pipe holding it on. I've got four 1/4" dowel rods mounted in the baffle that go into the front edge of the box to hold it aligned.
The mid is going to be the SEAS Prestige ER18RNX (H1456) 7" Reed Paper Cone Woofer in a sealed box.
The tweeter is going to be the CSS LD25X.
I've been thinking about going active on the woofers. I have two Dayton Audio SPA250 250 Watt Subwoofer Plate Amplifier that I could use as long as I can modify them to cross around 350Hz.
Here is a link to my build picks. Way to many to post here. I put captions on the pics to help explain what I'm doing.
https://picasaweb.google.com/pelegrn...LX7gPH1-7TzVg#
Here is a pic where I'm at so far.
Dave
A while back I made up a bunch of samples of cabinet panels out of difference materials to try to come up with a light weight panel for my next three way build. I ended up using a 1" thick panel made up of an inner layer of 1/4" hardi backer cement board, a viscoelastic layer of mystery glop, http://meniscusaudio.com/mystery-glop-p-909.html, a 1/2" thick layer of thermax sheeting, a layer of silicone then the outer layer of 1/4" cherry plywood. I think this will lighten the cabinets up my about 20lbs. I hope so at least. The mystery goop has a consistency of jello and is very sticky. I found heating it up will liquify it so it can be applied with a roller or brush. Scary stuff when heated. I can't even imagine spilling on myself.
I made the tweeter/ mid in a sealed cabinet that is removable from the base cabinet. Making the tweeter/mid box removable was the best way to lighten up the cabinet. I have it sitting on the base box with spikes with cups set into the top of the base cabinet so they have a space of a 1/4" between them.
I molded a waveguide to fit around the mid and I also rear mounted the mid and down sized the opening so the surround is hidden. This allowed me room to get a double bevel on the baffle edge. With all my waveguide testing I found a 30 degree bevel going into a 60 degree bevel works really well for diffraction.
The base section will have two 8" buyout woofers mounted in a folded tapered line designed by Paul K. The line tapers both directions as it exits out base box at the top. The woofers are sandwiched in a frame suspended by silicone. The front baffle and rear panel will be attached by sandwiching the box with four PVC pipes running through the box. The pvc pipe screws to the front baffle, runs through the cabinet and the rear panel will have screws running through it into the pvc pipe holding it on. I've got four 1/4" dowel rods mounted in the baffle that go into the front edge of the box to hold it aligned.
The mid is going to be the SEAS Prestige ER18RNX (H1456) 7" Reed Paper Cone Woofer in a sealed box.
The tweeter is going to be the CSS LD25X.
I've been thinking about going active on the woofers. I have two Dayton Audio SPA250 250 Watt Subwoofer Plate Amplifier that I could use as long as I can modify them to cross around 350Hz.
Here is a link to my build picks. Way to many to post here. I put captions on the pics to help explain what I'm doing.
https://picasaweb.google.com/pelegrn...LX7gPH1-7TzVg#
Here is a pic where I'm at so far.
Dave
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