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Has anyone mastered hiding joint lines?

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  • #31
    Re: Has anyone mastered hiding joint lines?

    The "big toothpaste tubes" of the 4 different colors and "grain sizes" of the 3M body fillers (we use them in plastic modeling all the time) are fabulous but not cheep. They are what REAL bodymen now use instead of "wiping solder", while us "shade-tree" guys use Bondo. Bondo is much softer than the 3M fillers. They're harder to use right, but the results are better. It's the difference in rattle can primers and PPG/SW/DuPont Hi-Build two-part epoxy primers. Sealing MDF 100% in whatever you choose (PITA) may be needed where you live to keep seams from "reflexing" in painted finishes. I have excellent results with good old Durham's "Rock Hard" Water Putty, but most people don't under paint on wood because they get in a hurry. Many detail parts for models are made of resins, including the dental resin that your dentist makes white fillings in your teeth from. I've separated parts smaller than the eye of the smallest needle sold from the molding block, made from this stuff, for my N-scale trains. (.25mmX.13mm, a caboose lantern) We use these products as fillers too. It's a matter of learning your materials and how to best work with them. It's more than worth taking scraps and making 90* corners and practicing making that joint perfect before trying on your first speakers. My first Orchestra teacher, Madame Tosca Kramer "Purr-fect prack-tisce make'as purr-fect purr-formance'a."