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Grey is correct. It is a good practice to tightly twist the AC lines so their fields' cancel. It is actually only important where those AC lines are going to be in close proximity to the low level signal wires. The two green wires twisted together are the 6.3 VAC wires that will eventually head over to the three tubes to power their filament heaters. Since they are very close to the low level audio lines their twist will help eliminate that dreadful 60 Hz hum. The rest of the wires that I have twisted (red HT wires, the black 120VAC wires, and the yellow 5V recitifer wires) don't really need to be twisted. They are all over on the power supply side of the amp and never run anywhere close to anything sensitive. I like to twist them, however, because it doesn't hurt anything and I think it helps keep things neat and tidy. I've done this on my other builds (tube and class D) and all of those are very quite.
And Grey is also correct, I just use my cordless drill to carefully twist the wires.
I'm no expert but I've read a little bit on that exact subject. Generally people feel that the extra parts for DC are not necessary. Good wiring techniques take care of it. It might also be that a lot of tube amp fans like "strickly tubes only" (i.e. no semiconductors) and rectifying the filament supply with only tube technology is a fair bit of more work. I know that Bruce Heran of Oddwatt likes to use 12VDC laptop SMPS bricks for his heaters. That makes pretty good sense.
It's an Alpha audio tapered (logrithmic) stereo potentiometer. It simply attenuates the input line level signal to control output volume. One of these days I will purchace an Alps pot. But so far I haven't had any issues with the Alpha units. It's 100Kohm.
I got the big B+ inductor (CLC filter) mounted, as well as the smaller 5 Henry inductor for the driver LC stage:
Work on this project is going to slow down just a little bit as my real (career) work is going to be super busy for the next week or so. Not to mention the output transformers haven't shipped yet.
Every time I see a tube amp build that's done well like this one, I wonder if someone's going to pick it up off a stranger's yard sale table for $5 and clean it up and fix it and play whatever music is popular 100 years from now through it haha. Maybe now 100 years, but a while down the road, you know
Thank you for the potentiometer info. Also for the step by step descriptions and photos. I'm learning quite a bit that I have not understood previously, despite several amp and preamp projects, which have turned out more or less well, despite ignorance of the way circuits work. You are providing a wonderful opportunity for understanding practical tube amp construction, especially in that others are contributing additional info.
"Every time I see a tube amp build that's done well like this one, I wonder if someone's going to pick it up off a stranger's yard sale table for $5 and clean it up and fix it and play whatever music is popular 100 years from now through it haha."
Given the quickness of technological change over the previous few decades the following is probably very unlikely, who knows how people will listen to music in 100 years, but it could be that yard sale will also include music contemporary to the amp., perhaps even 100 years earlier. Perhaps the fortunate purchaser will buy the amp and the music, and not only play what is popular at the time of purchase, but the earlier finds as well. He or she may enjoy the music, and a little insight (perhaps imagined and unrealistic) into March 2013.
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