Speedster TMM

[Jim Griffin]

Re: Speedster TMM

Beau,

Another option to consider is the Speedster Tower that I built and demo'ed at the Kentucky DIY event. It is a Speedster MLTL which uses the original Speedster bookshelf crossover but repackages the drivers into a small floor standing speaker. The F3 cutoff and bass performance is akin to the TMM version. More data at:

http://techtalk.parts-express.com/showthread.php?240332-The-Speedster-Towers-A-MLTL-version-True-to-the-Originals

Jim

[Beau]

Re: Speedster TMM

Paul C,

Would you mind providing a very brief opinion on the relative benefits when the Speedster vs Speedster TMM (i.e., the conditions under which you would suggest one over the other)?

BTW - I recently heard the Speedster - and was blown away.

[Paul K.]

Re: Speedster TMM

Rustoleum offers their hammered finish in cans which can be applied with brush or roller. If the cabinet is really small, using a brush (bristle or foam) will work pretty well but for larger areas, a small, foam roller (about 1" diameter and 4" wide) works much, much better. Theoretically with this paint you don't need to prime, but I would. In the end no matter what type of finish you use, practice and experience are your friends. Just be patient.
Paul

I wanted to show the crossover boards, see pic. [ATTACH=CONFIG]43049[/ATTACH]

Well, I've probably made all 'rookie' woodworking mistakes.
So far my conclusion: Sawing and routering --> not that hard However getting an acceptable finish on the outside --> timeconsuming

I wanted to use the 'hammered' finish spray paint (to hide any flaws). What a disaster. It's probably not meant to be sprayed on large flat surfaces. The color was very uneven and streaking, and the hammered effect was only on about 10% of the area...
So I sanded it down and started over. I also used 'elmer's woodfiller max', that's not easy. When sanding the woodfiller it comes out in chunks and layers. It's taken me weeks.. Speaker building is 10% sawing/routering, 85% wood finishing and 5% soldering (I like the 5% a lot).
I'm not striving for perfection in woodworking, as soon as I reach acceptable WAF I'm good. My wife is starting to feel pity for me, for trying so hard.
I'm still super excited and want to hear the speakers!!!!
Give me another week and I'll have them done.

[Paul Carmody]

Re: Speedster TMM

My first build was also a huge strain to get the finish looking decent (and sadly, it never did). However, I have learned a lot of tricks over the years to getting a decent finish quicker.

For spray paint, the surface has to be in excellent shape. So if you have the time to use lots of bondo, it's worth it. Also, the surface needs to be primed and sealed VERY well, or the MDF will soak up spray paint like a sponge, and the finish can't even get a started. THe good news is, you've probably sealed the surface pretty well when you sanded down the hammered paint. So you can pretty much use whatever you like at this point.

Some people have gotten cool results using surfaces like Formica and Wilsonart. They make some pretty cool-looking stuff. I have tried it, but never could quite get the adhesion I wanted.

In the end, paper-backed veneer ends up being the most forgiving. The trickiest part is getting it to stick evenly. A bad glue job with weak corners is a disaster waiting to happen (imaging peeling off the entire finish of your speaker in one sheet). I have found the most surefire method to get veneer to stick is "cold press." Basically, spread an even coat of wood glue on both surfaces and clamp a hard, flat plate to it (ie: large sheets of MDF). Let it sit overnight, trim excess veneer, and continue on the other surfaces. Yes, it's time consuming, but worth it. There are so many nice-looking things to do with wood finishing. You can dye it, stain it, leave it natural. Then there's the clearcoat: wiping varnish is really easy (and relaxing, in my opinion), or you can get hardcore with a spray setup if you want a "guitar-quality" finish.

[nrg74]

Re: Speedster TMM

Thanks Craig,

I know I can do another speaker, its just finishing them that I havent figured out.
PM me if you have advice. I am wondering if the MDF makes it hard, I did prime it. I also wonder if I should not use spray paint, it seems the stain on plywood is much easier, the sides of plywood are tough.
Also I wonder if there is a finer grain woodfiller that is better then elmers max...

I still enjoy the process, I am certain I will enjoy the end result!

Thanks for your support and any advice?

[craigk]

Re: Speedster TMM

hang in there. it will all be worth it when you listen to them for the first time.

[nrg74]

Re: Speedster TMM

I wanted to show the crossover boards, see pic.

Well, I've probably made all 'rookie' woodworking mistakes.
So far my conclusion: Sawing and routering --> not that hard However getting an acceptable finish on the outside --> timeconsuming

I wanted to use the 'hammered' finish spray paint (to hide any flaws). What a disaster. It's probably not meant to be sprayed on large flat surfaces. The color was very uneven and streaking, and the hammered effect was only on about 10% of the area...
So I sanded it down and started over. I also used 'elmer's woodfiller max', that's not easy. When sanding the woodfiller it comes out in chunks and layers. It's taken me weeks.. Speaker building is 10% sawing/routering, 85% wood finishing and 5% soldering (I like the 5% a lot).
I'm not striving for perfection in woodworking, as soon as I reach acceptable WAF I'm good. My wife is starting to feel pity for me, for trying so hard.
I'm still super excited and want to hear the speakers!!!!
Give me another week and I'll have them done.

[nrg74]

Re: Speedster TMM

The box is glued. The front baffle has holes..
I am open to suggestions on what to do next.
Maybe test fit the front baffle, keep it on with clamps, so I can cut the edge with the router and do the roundover?

The drivers, i cant wait to hear the ribbon, are very nice. I still need to put together the x-over, shouldnt be hard, but will check it carefully.

Thanks.

[nrg74]

Re: Speedster TMM


I am creating saw dust. Cutting to size wasn't bad. A test fit showed slight warping of the mdf, that is why I am storing it flat.
I used mdf for the front to hopefully make routing it easier... it will be my first go around with the router. I have the circle jig.. As soon as I feel comfortable that I can do the routing will get the drivers and other components needed from our friends from Grand Rapids.

:D

[JasonP]

Re: Speedster TMM

[ATTACH=CONFIG]41613[/ATTACH]

That speaker is gorgeous, just stop already. I'm getting dehydrated from fluid loss due to excessive drool...

[Paul K.]

Re: Speedster TMM

I did a little exploring and determined that you had probably not posted any of the graphs, although I thought you might have included some of them in your formal writeup. I still have that original email with the graphs in case you need it again.
Paul

I didn't have the graphs at the time. But you (Paul K) re-sent them to me. So now the ball's in my court to post them on my site.

[Paul Carmody]

Re: Speedster TMM

I'm pretty sure that Paul C posted the graphs I sent him when I did the modeling, so maybe you can find that thread?
Paul

I didn't have the graphs at the time. But you (Paul K) re-sent them to me. So now the ball's in my court to post them on my site.

[Paul K.]

Re: Speedster TMM

I'm pretty sure that Paul C posted the graphs I sent him when I did the modeling, so maybe you can find that thread?
Paul

I try to use : this, but i was unable to get sharp edges... and difficult to glue....
so i search and find this 3M product. Just put one layer of varnish and apply it. (I used black VALCHROMAT 19mm mdf for the box and meniscus kit for hardware)

[ATTACH=CONFIG]41613[/ATTACH]
the iPhone is just to give an idea of the monster's size ;-)

Anyway, i should be very happy if one Paul (C or K !) can put the graph result of TMM simulation and/or mesures !

I can also post my TMM's dimensions for a future 19mm mdf thick TMM (in mm !)

Thanks for your attention....

[patjazz]

Re: Speedster TMM

Patjazz,

How did you put the texture on the boxes? I love the contrast of the woodgrain with the 'carbon fibre' texture of the boxes! very well done.

I try to use : this, but i was unable to get sharp edges... and difficult to glue....
so i search and find this 3M product. Just put one layer of varnish and apply it. (I used black VALCHROMAT 19mm mdf for the box and meniscus kit for hardware)


the iPhone is just to give an idea of the monster's size ;-)

Anyway, i should be very happy if one Paul (C or K !) can put the graph result of TMM simulation and/or mesures !

I can also post my TMM's dimensions for a future 19mm mdf thick TMM (in mm !)

Thanks for your attention....

[nrg74]

Re: Speedster TMM

Patjazz,

How did you put the texture on the boxes? I love the contrast of the woodgrain with the 'carbon fibre' texture of the boxes! very well done.